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Discussion Starter #1
As some of you know, I recently acquired a stainless steel Loaded; and as this is my first stainless steel 1911, I wondered if there is anything I need to know about how to care for it? Is there anything I should (or should not) use on it?

Cheers! M2
 

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no steel wool! LOL

no bluing!!! :D

whatever you use on a blued gun, I.e. silicon cloth, etc. will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jeff

Thanks for the info!

Cheers! M2
 

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Use a good quality gun oil, no Rem Oil. Break free works great.
 

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No RemOil? Been using it for a long time without any problems.
 

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No RemOil? Been using it for a long time without any problems.
Rem oil evaporates/runs off quickly and will leave the surfaces un protected. I'm a Armorer for a small part of a very large LE agency, I'm in charge of maintaining 15 weapons. The other armorer believes in rem oil so we have plenty of it on hand. We also have quite a few vets that insisted on having Break free CLP on hand because it's what they know. We received our Beretta's 5 years ago and all officers currently here were issued their weapons at the same time. The weapons that have been maintained with Rem Oil show more wear than the ones that have been maintained with CLP. All are cleaned and lubed at least once a month per dept regulations. I also have to inspect the weapons to make sure that the Officers are doing what they are told. Usually the weapons maintained with Rem Oil are dry while the CLP stays put and wet longer. The only weapon that we have had reliability issues with is regularly lubed with Rem Oil. Rem Oil does have its uses, it is very good for cold weather due to its high Kerosene content it seems to flow well in 32 degree or less temps. But as a general Lubricant it falls short.
 

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Use Break Free or M-Pro-7 for rust prevention and some quality grease on the slide/frame rails (like Slide Glide or Tetra Grease). Blue Armadillo is also good stuff, but for some odd reason, I have a hard time finding it in our local gunstores. Yeah...its made here in Houston....but most of the major stores don't carry it...odd!

Yes, you need to lightly coat the exterior because SS can rust. Swab the exterior with some Break Free on a rag...then wipe off the excess. Don't over do it. Its not a good idea to run a 1911 on the "wet" side. Some grease on the rails and a drop or two in the hammer, disconnector and trigger is all that is needed. Again...don't overdo it.

For bore cleaning, I use Shooters Choice and JB Bore Compound. A few brone brushes and you're good.

Rem Oil and WD-40 are things to avoid for the most part.

- brickboy240
 

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RemOil has mineral spirits not kerosene. They are both petroleum distillates, but mineral spirits is thinner. Between lighter fluid and kerosene.

Now, I have used RemOil for years as part of my cleaning regiment. I have a cloth that all I do is wipe down parts, etc. with. I do not use RemOil as a primary lubricant.

I will make sure everything is clean. (For real filthy parts I will use NON-chlorinated brake cleaner). I will then use my RemOil rag to wipe all the internal and external parts. No dripping wet parts. just enough to wipe them down. After everything is together I use Break Free or some other oil for areas were there is contact. I also use RIGs but they stopped making it after the company was acquired. When I run out I am going to start using STOS.

edit: STOS can be ordered here: Ponsness/Warren - Reloaders.com
 

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I have seen some video that uses iirc non something another spray brake cleaner and mobil one for lubing the slide. Anything wrong with this.
 

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I have seen some video that uses iirc non something another spray brake cleaner and mobil one for lubing the slide. Anything wrong with this.

I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner (Be VERY careful, the chlorinated stuff will eat plastic) on all my guns. Helps wash all the grit ,etc. out and leaves them clean. It does dry out the surface and that is why I use an aerosol can of RemOil to just coat the surface then wipe th rest off.

Now as far as mobile 1. I would not use any automobile oil as it would:

1. Probably contain detergents, other ingredients that may damage some finishes.

2. Gum up or dry out with continued exposure to air.


My $0.02
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A guy I work with who is a big Kimber fan told me he makes his own oil out of Mobile 1 synthetic and lithium grease. Has anyone heard of that recipe?

Cheers! M2
 

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A guy I work with who is a big Kimber fan told me he makes his own oil out of Mobile 1 synthetic and lithium grease. Has anyone heard of that recipe?

Cheers! M2

Mobile 1 Synthetic grease has a lithium soap agent in it.

Again, I would not use automotive oils for guns as they likely contain detergents and other additives that may damage or discolor finishes.

There are plenty of purpose made lubes out there. :shock:

M-Pro-7, Break Free, Hoppes Gun grease, STOS, etc. are all made for firearms.
 

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For a stainless steel 1911 I use Rig + P Stainless Steel Lube on the rails and locking lugs. Everywhere else I use Weapon Shield clp.
 

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I use Gun Butter every where except the rails, there I use XF7 by MD labs.
 

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Interesting, I haven't found RemOil to evaporate very fast on my guns. But I clean/shoot them all once a month. I use BreakFree CLP on my Kimber, but RemOil is a better solvent. On my XD, Rem Oil seems fine, though I've started putting just a drop of BreakFree on each of the rails - but went 1200 rounds before starting CLP and there's not a ton of wear on it...

1911s are typically a little pickier with oil, so I wanted to use nothing but CLP on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Actually, I got a bottle of Breakfree CLP this afternoon. I figure it has the best reputation out there...

Cheers! M2
 
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