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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a black XD9 service model. Now, a few months after my purchase, I wish I'd bought a bi-tone. Is it possible to convert my black slide to the matte stainless finish found on the bi-tone? If so, is can anyone recommend a custom shop that does it?

Or does taking the black finish off the XD ruin the melonite and make it rust-prone?

Thanks for any suggestions and/or help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I'm finding I really like the way it looks better and eliminates the visible scratches problem. Only way to mar up the slide with the stainless finish is to put an actual gouge in it. I'm not one of those people who think scratches and wear add character. I just think it looks bad. Just my opinion. And yes, I shoot my gun, but I don't conceal carry, as it is not yet legal in my state. Probably wouldn't even if it was. Range and home defense only.
 

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There are some that have done a hard Chrome finish, which I really like, thought about doing mine after it gets some more wear.
 

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Getting a matte silver finish may be best to send to a shop to have it painted.
However, if you'd like to do it yourself...

First buy this: Birchwood Casey Blue & Rust Remover. Not a bad way to try this route for under $7 imo.

Apply a very tiny bit to a sponge (or equivalent) and rub a very small area on the inside of the slide to remove the bluing. If you like how it looks feel free to apply and remove the black coating from the outside of the slide.

I have not yet seen a pic of the slide with the coating removed. Good luck. Worst case scenario you have to send it to a shop to have it painted because you don't like the look.

If you do go this route be sure to completely disassemble everything from the slide. It'd be a bad idea to have anything left in between parts. Keep in mind removing the sights, too.

Rust *could* be more likely with the coating removed and not finishing the metal to a finer finish. If you keep it clean and keep it oiled it won't be a problem. From what I've read rust will only occur if you neglect your gun.


^This is just based on my experience with barrels. It is worth exactly what you paid for it.;) Proceed with caution, but definitely keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Part of the reason I want the bare stainless is that there is no paint or covering that can be scratched, revealing the silver steal underneath. Therefore, any coating or painting I would not consider.

I don't want a shiny slide. I want the flat silver, similar or identical to the bi-tone models. Sorry for using the word "matte" – brain fart from typing too fast.

I will look into the hard chrome finish. But if anyone has any other suggestions that doesn't involve a finish that can scratch off, I'd love to hear them.
 

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Part of the reason I want the bare stainless is that there is no paint or covering that can be scratched, revealing the silver steal underneath. Therefore, any coating or painting I would not consider.

I don't want a shiny slide. I want the flat silver, similar or identical to the bi-tone models. Sorry for using the word "matte" – brain fart from typing too fast.

I will look into the hard chrome finish. But if anyone has any other suggestions that doesn't involve a finish that can scratch off, I'd love to hear them.

Any coating or finish on any gun can, and will, scratch off by something that is harder than the next.
 

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There are many companies that can apply silver type (matte) finishes, but the only problem is always the cost.

A few members here have sent in their guns to Robar and had them apply the NP3 coating. However, the price for doing a complete gun is something like $160 for just the slide; $190 for slide and internal parts of slide and barrel; and $250 for all parts minus frame and the magazine.

However, you can find other places that offer similar refinishing options.

I say shoot it for a few years, then if it still bothers you can have it refinished.
 

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Hard chrome gets a bad rep because of the word "chrome". It's not bumper chrome.

Here's some good info from APW Cogan

PLATED FINISH: INDUSTRIAL HARD CHROME, On Blued or Stainless Firearms.
Hard Chrome offers the best all-around properties of any finish available for firearms that exists today. Hard Chrome, when applied to a steel, or stainless steel surface that has been properly prepared, will not chip or peel. No mis-understanding here, Hard Chrome is not Bumper Chrome. We are not talking about thick layers of softer Chrome made to flow and eventually peel.

This is INDUSTRIAL Chrome used to make tooling stronger and more wear resistant. How hard? The hardness rating averages 65 R.C., or about 1000 on the Vickersscale. Its friction co-efficient is .1 (point one) when working with all surfaces chromed. Polishing the surface decreases the friction co-efficienteven further. The salt spray ratings average around 100 plus hours. The surfaces available are Matte hard Chrome Finishes are a light grey and completely non-reflective, Brushed Hard Chrome Finishes are the easiest to clean and have a very low reflectivity.

We plate a lot of Stainless Firearms with Industrial Hard Chrome. WHY?
The stainless alloys they manufacture firearms from have a high level of Chrome-Moly Steel in them. These are used so that they can be adequately hardened after machining. You were told stainless steel is not magnetic. There are hundred of varieties of stainless. If you don’t believe me, put a magnet near your firearm, it will jump on it. While gun stainless is far more corrosion resistant than any Blue Steel Chrome-Moly firearm construction, it is not as corrosion resistant as the stainless used in hardware or, surgical instruments. Also, when stainless firearms rust, they usually pit deeply where the Chrome Moly part of the alloy is concentrated. Those pits are difficult to remove.

Stainless alloys have an inherent tendency to gall or bind when the two working surfaces are in the same alloy family. Gun manufacturers try to limit this problem by varying the hardness of the parts that work against each other and increasing the tolerances between the parts. For the most part, they are successful using these methods. However, you pay a price in accuracy potential and having a tight, smoothly functioning firearm with these methods.

Many firearm owners think stainless guns are harder then Blue Steel firearms. This may be true of certain moving parts due to the mentioned galling problems, but, is not true of the overall construction of the firearm. Consequently, stainless firearms will scuff, or scratch at about the same level as Blued firearms. Any flaws on a stainless firearm are much more noticeable than on Black Finished firearms.

So what does chrome do to help these inherent stainless faults.
It imparts to the surface an additional coating that has to be attacked and penetrated before it can attack the base metal.

Due to the type of bonding chrome plating has with a base metal the overall corrosion resistance increases more than the rating for each metal. This may be the best combination of the two elements involved when corrosion resistance is a major concern.
Hard chrome with its inherently low friction co-efficiency allows for smoother operation of the matted stainless parts with tighter tolerances and decreases the possibility of galling. You now can have a tighter, smoother, more dependable operating firearm. Third, due to the hardness of chrome, wear and tear is less noticeable and takes longer to happen. You have a better looking firearm with less maintenance.


example of hard chrome (my xd45....started out all black)


factory stainless
 

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Hello everyone. I'm going to send out my xdm 9mm to Springfield and have them do the nickel finish on the slide and all metal parts, $215 cost. I will post before and after pics once it comes in. The rep. stated it would take about 6-8 weeks for return.
 

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Therefore, any coating or painting I would not consider.

I don't want a shiny slide. I want the flat silver, similar or identical to the bi-tone models.
Don't discount a good coating as a refinish. I bought a pre-owned XD45 Compact that was all black and changed it to a bi-tone similar to what you are interested in. Send your slide to Todd at Customized Creations and have him refinish it for you. Todd does absolutely excellent work, and is far less expensive than hard-chrome. He also installed the TruGlo TFO's which I love.

 

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There are some that have done a hard Chrome finish, which I really like, thought about doing mine after it gets some more wear.
Nice post eb_311...
I concur with all that recommend hard chrome or nickel-Teflon..

WW read and learn..
These guys know what they are talking bout.
Either of these PLATINGS will serve you well.
I've had Todd do some work for me, but he uses a baked on coating, Cerakote, not a plating.
I'd dare say a properly plated slide will protect your pistol more than a bare stainless slide.
Either finish will make your cleaning easier.
Pics are a bit bright because of the flash, both finishes have a nice non-reflective hue to them.

I had an XD9sc hard chromed by Tripps a few years ago, but they no longer do HC anymore.
I've read a lot of good things about Metaloy.

Before:


After;








I've also had CCR do a lot of work for me.
They have a nickel-Teflon they call Ceraplate, but have recently improved and call it CP II now.
The newer version isn't on the site yet, but it does explain what Ceraplate is.
CCR-REFINISHING

This is Ceraplate on my LCP and Sig P239..
I carry this LCP almost daily and it shows no signs of wear after over a year.

Before;


After;




Before;


After;




This is a standard bi-tone XD9 that I sold.




I'm contemplating refinishing my fairly new EMP.
I might go with the entire pistol Robar's NP3.
I also might have SACS hard chrome it, but I'm not sure they will apply HC to an aluminum frame.
I sent them an email today about it.

Good luck Bro..
 
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