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I have been trying to come up with a reason for a new build, and the thing that keeps coming to mind is to build one to paint. I know that some of you guys have one, but digging through the pic thread to find them was a huge pain and I wanted to ask some questions.

Did you hydro dip it or paint it yourself? What as the cost involved? How did you come up with the patterns you used and how did you put it on the rifle (if you painted it yourself)?
 

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I'm going to be putting together a rifle here in the not too distant future. I will also be camo-ing it up. Checking online for ideas and I'm thinking this is the one I'm going to follow: How To Camouflage Paint Your Rifle

I really like the look that he accomplished and it seems rather easy to accomplish. I've camo'd some things in the past with a similar technique. Though, instead of the khaki base, I'll probably start with the OD green and go for a more "woodland" camo look. If I'm feeling particularly saucy, I may go for tiger-stripe, but I may wait for that one.
 

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KRYLONNNNN!!!!! +1

how well does it hold up? im thinking about doin my lower in od/fg, just did my shotty and stuff but havent put it through too much yet. but i mean i know krylon wont hold up like duracoat but the thing is...if you dont like it...you can remove it later
 

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Discussion Starter #6
KRYLONNNNN!!!!! +1

how well does it hold up? im thinking about doin my lower in od/fg, just did my shotty and stuff but havent put it through too much yet. but i mean i know krylon wont hold up like duracoat but the thing is...if you dont like it...you can remove it later
This was another of my questions, the durability of krylon vs. duracoat. I know DC is tougher, just how much?
 

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Krylon Fusion, 10-15 minutes each side, 2 hour wait time between flipping to paint the other side. Camo pattern "Chives" :mrgreen:

End result...


 

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As far as durabiliaty... errr don't know... don't care!
That was part of the beauty of the build. I wanted a gun I could kick the Sh!# out of and not think twice what happens too it. Just grab the old faithful rattle can and touch it up if it gets bad. If the paint scratches so what! It's black underneath and it will just add to the camo pattern. The whole key to camo IS NOT having a distinctive pattern. The eye picks up on those type things. Look at pics of service rifles just smeared with tan or earth colored paints no real pattern and paint chipping off. It all just adds character. Of coarse this is just my opinion... :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As far as durabiliaty... errr don't know... don't care!
That was part of the beauty of the build. I wanted a gun I could kick the Sh!# out of and not think twice what happens too it. Just grab the old faithful rattle can and touch it up if it gets bad. If the paint scratches so what! It's black underneath and it will just add to the camo pattern. The whole key to camo IS NOT having a distinctive pattern. The eye picks up on those type things. Look at pics of service rifles just smeared with tan or earth colored paints no real pattern and paint chipping off. It all just adds character. Of coarse this is just my opinion... :cool:
Haha, kinda what I am looking for with this idea I am working on. I want a rifle that i can throw out of a moving truck and not worry about it. Just concerned about ease of application I guess. Someone mentioned krylon being removable, how so?
 

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Before I built the rifle you see above, I painted a lower and rail before building. NOT a good Idea. Build it then paint it fully assembled. i had used too much paint on the first lower i painted it messed up mechanical function of a few parts of the build. I just stripped all the paint off. It took about a full can of graffiti remover and several soap bucket dunks to remove mine. But i also had like 8 layers of paint on it... lol

Heres a pic of my first attempt...


Next stage of painting (FDE mag was just to help reference color)


Here it is after I stripped the paint back off
 

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I did this type of work professionally for years. Not much advice can be given.

PREP, PREP, and PREP some more, follow directions.

Krylon is toward the bottom of the totem pole for a gun finish. And so is that alumahydeII. People try to justify using it because it's cheap and can be reapplied fairly easily to cover up all the dings that will get on it. And the tan is really too light to be used alone as an effective camouflage in my area.

Duracoat is so-so. Takes days to cure worth a crap though. Fairly wear resistant once it is cured. But not bomb proof as some people that never use their guns would claim. And it darkens badly when exposed to a lot of heat from a gas block for instance.

Ceramkote is better

KG GunKote and Norrells bake-on Moly are superior to all. Lots of silencer manufacturers use it to finish with. Holds up to caustic dips and heat exceptionally well

The immersion dips require finishing the part with a base coat, then dipping it onto a film floating on top of the water.

You can alter the appearance of a dipped pattern by just changing the color of the base coat.

Here is an example of how the appearance can change by just using different base colors.







 
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