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so I finally read this thread even though its been here forever...So far it seems that crap simply happens and bolts no matter what brand break. Now it does seem that this might be a bit unfair for some brands like Colt. The reason I say this is Colt has been making ar15s for decades whereas some brands are fairly new. Also, some brands we all praise often like BCM isn't represented here, but eventually due to murphy's law could be posted here.
 

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Never broken a carrier, not in over 20 years but I did cut through a DPMS carrier with a $9 hacksaw so it wasn't heat treated.
Have broken 2 Young Manufacturing 5.56 chrome bolts with less than 2000 rounds on them. Broke a few Grendel bolts with around 500 rounds on them, they were early bolts probably when he was opening up 5.56 bolts.
 

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I've been using steel and brass ammo both corrosive and non-corrosive in my AR 7.62x39. No breaks but again not rapid firing it.

Model 1: 5K+
ARP: 4K

Happy So Far. Just picked up 2 extra bolts because of all your scare tactics.
 

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I have two Adams Arms gas piston uppers with Adams Arms BCGs.

1 - has about 2300 rounds fired with no cracks or unusual wear

2 - has about 1000 rounds fired with no cracks or unusual wear
 

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some ar upper I got from m1sales around 1700 rds and the bolt just broke in half.... very annoyed.
 

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What do you all think of JP enhanced bolt, was thinking of this for my bush ar15 and dpms lr-308. Sounds like bolt is more of the problem over the carrier.
 

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5 Bushmasters, (all pre Cerberus). 8 years, countless thousands of rounds.....ZERO BREAKAGE.

2 Colts. 4 years, around 4,000 rounds each.....ZERO BREAKAGE.

2 LWRC's. 3 years, around 3,000 rounds each.....ZERO BREAKAGE.

1 Rock River Arms LAR-9, 9 MM Carbine. 3 years, at least 5,000 rounds.....ZERO BREAKAGE.

1 DPMS AP-4 .308 Carbine. 1 year, around 1,000 rounds.....ZERO BREAKAGE.
 

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What do you all think of JP enhanced bolt, was thinking of this for my bush ar15 and dpms lr-308. Sounds like bolt is more of the problem over the carrier.
I did that and I can tell you 100% without a doubt, never ever under any circumstances put JP parts in your weapon. I bought a bunch of parts from them just before the panic including a bolt and all of it was sub-standard garbage. The bolt was completely out of spec, badly machined and fitted. Also all the parts were badly rusted.
 

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I did that and I can tell you 100% without a doubt, never ever under any circumstances put JP parts in your weapon. I bought a bunch of parts from them just before the panic including a bolt and all of it was sub-standard garbage. The bolt was completely out of spec, badly machined and fitted. Also all the parts were badly rusted.
Sorry but that is just 100% wrong. JP makes the best stuff in the business. I recently got a JP upper that I put on a lower I built and its the best AR I have owned to date and I have had a lot of nice guns in my collection from Noveske, Larue, Daniel Defense, BCM, Colt, to name a few and JP is tops. Buy JP with confidence. Great people who make a great product.
Pat
 

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As far as mag partical inspection being effective I would like to know also. I think it is more of a marketing gimmeck for the masses. Military rifles I can see them being tested as a quality control.

For MPI to truely be effective you would need to perform that inspection every xyz round count, an initial MPI would bring about any fractures caused by the initial manufacturing process but what about after the rifle gets used and used and used? A non destructive inspection is not ment to be a one time thing, its ment to identfy stress cracks so you can stop a failure of the part before it happens. An NDI should be continously performed through out the life of the part until A) it starts to show signs of stress cracks and failure of the metal, or B) the rifle is taken out of service for what ever reason.

Does any one know if the Military performs regular NDI inspections on there service rifle bolts after they hit a certain round count or time in service?
 

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As far as mag partical inspection being effective I would like to know also. I think it is more of a marketing gimmeck for the masses. Military rifles I can see them being tested as a quality control.

For MPI to truely be effective you would need to perform that inspection every xyz round count, an initial MPI would bring about any fractures caused by the initial manufacturing process but what about after the rifle gets used and used and used? A non destructive inspection is not ment to be a one time thing, its ment to identfy stress cracks so you can stop a failure of the part before it happens. An NDI should be continously performed through out the life of the part until A) it starts to show signs of stress cracks and failure of the metal, or B) the rifle is taken out of service for what ever reason.
You are correct. This is what few if any know who preach all of this testing to be so beneficial. Another is HPT, (High Pressure Testing). It's not the end all, cure all of bolt testing. The way many ninjas make it out to be. About the best your going to get is what most all manufacturers perform. That is proof testing. It places abnormal stress on working components of the weapon by actually firing it with above normal pressure loads.

If anything is going to fail, manufacturers want it to happen at the factory, not with the consumer in the field, where it could result in a multi million dollar law suit. Proof testing is the cheapest, easiest way to accomplish this. It's actually better than high pressure testing, and really makes such testing unnecessary. Especially for sporting arms. You can be almost certain all manufacturers perform this test on every weapon they sell. Their liability insurance demands it.
 

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I own a troy defense rifle and had only put around 150rounds through the rifle and the set screw for the gas key broke off just wondering if anybody else is haveing this same issue
 

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Sorry but that is just 100% wrong. JP makes the best stuff in the business. I recently got a JP upper that I put on a lower I built and its the best AR I have owned to date and I have had a lot of nice guns in my collection from Noveske, Larue, Daniel Defense, BCM, Colt, to name a few and JP is tops. Buy JP with confidence. Great people who make a great product.
Pat
I concur. People at JP know what micrometers are and when they post a spec that's what it is.
 

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I did that and I can tell you 100% without a doubt, never ever under any circumstances put JP parts in your weapon. I bought a bunch of parts from them just before the panic including a bolt and all of it was sub-standard garbage. The bolt was completely out of spec, badly machined and fitted. Also all the parts were badly rusted.
I call shenanigans & Bravo Sierra. John Paul would have made good on ANY "sub standard" part that came out of his shop. (But I doubt this happened)
 

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Lets see, over the years..

Old bushmaster, around the 2500-3K mark has gas key come loose. No failures or breakages.

Old Oly OA-93 pistol with unknown number of rounds, I put 2K through it before selling it and it as half wore out when I got it. no issues.

Spikes BCG with 1200-1500, no issues
Ruger chrome BCG, 2150rds with no issues
2 Ptac "junk", cheap BCG's, 4K between the two of them with no issues, although I did restake one of the gas keys. Wasn't loose, just didn't like the looks of it.
 

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glad to see this post, was getting ready to dump some $$ into a new bolt carrier group, but as a relatively new AR shooter and less than a couple thousand rounds through my AR, I think I can put that money into other, more important things, either training or ammo or food storage or something.......good read / good info.
 

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I've run double star, bushmaster and no-name generics and never had a failure. I have seen that the generics have had poor gas rings, which you can test by just flipping the bolt out and then set it bolt face down and see if it can stand, if it can't the gas rings are shot or the bolt carrier is over bored/worn. I've seen 7.62x39 bolt lugs crack, but they're milled really thin in that area. I've also see gas keys come undone so if i buy cheap I just put red loctite on the screws and restake them with a punch if they look iffy. I'm just recently getting into the fancier stuff because I am a poor kid.
 
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