When I went to the professionals and asked what wt I should be shooting, I was told to go as light as possible since I have much more draw wt. than the arrows are rated for. That pretty much limits me to fixed.
Can't beat a Muzzy, except I used Grim Reapers to kill 2 deer last year and they didn't go past 30 yards. First one was a 120 pound doe, the second was a 220 pound 10 pointer (dressed weights). Exit holes were as large as a pop can. I didn't bother looking for blood trails because they both dropped within sight.
I've never subscribed to needing top notch equiptment to take deer. Until this year I shot 3/$13 fixed blade broadheads. I just switched to Carbon Express F-15 fixed blades because the GF bought them for me. =) In reality, a good shot will trump an expensive/"superior" broadhead any day. Spend less money of broadheads and more time practicing possible shots that could be taken. More practice time = more dead deer. Also, on that note i'll be posting the results: whether these CXpress broadheads have changed my mind at the end of this hunting season...haha
Also, i've never fully trusted mechanical broadheads, and have never used them. I have friends that put complete trust in some of them, but I prefer to stay fairly old school and go with what works. With a fixed blade broadhead, i KNOW that the tip will do what it's designed to do. Like my dad always said...KISS. :smile:
EDIT: Poted this in the duplicate thread, but figured I'd post in here since this is the one taking off...lol. Assuming the duplicate will probably get deleted...
Max range with my bow is only about 20 yards - that's the range at which i can consistantly group inside a 9 inch circle. The bow is bamboo and shoots 'em at about 150 fps.This doe i got at about 10 yards. To correct my last post- they are 7/8 wide.
grandpa tim i did not mean to hijack your thread....
I think any high quality steel head is gonna do the job if you put it in the boiler room, and any point, even an expanding gizmo will result in a nightmare if you hit 'em anywhere else. A stone point is not much weaker than steel and sharper if made well (but the edge is wavy). For me, one of the main drawbacks of stone points is that they are light by modern standards. I mean, ideally i want to shoot a 500 grain arrow. If it's only going 150 fps, you want it heavy for penetration. But a stone point plus a sitka spruce shaft and fletching is only about 350 grains, so i have to try to sneak extra weight in there ... like with wire wraps or lead inserts. In the photo i have hafted them with a mix of JB weld and lead shavings.Since then I have switched to less toxic metals. I would be real curious to see the results of one of these shot through a compound...
No problem aaron12. I think its cool and have thought about it too. I bought some G5 Montec Carbide blades today. They hit preety close to what my field points did at 20 yards. My groups at 30 thought are not so good. They went from 2-3 inches with field points to 4-5 inches with the Montecs. And some fliers that make the groups all over the target. I think I need to broadhead tune my bow at 30 yards and see what that does. I'll have to do it in the morning before I leave for the lease or tomorrow after I get there. Bow season starts Saturday.
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