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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got finished bobbing the hammer on my 3" ruger sp101 .357... Took hours because I lost throne of the little detente in the trigger assembly and had to do a full on carpet search. I ended up scanning the carpet with a magnet for 3 hours until I realized it was stuck to the callis on the bottom of my foot... Made me feel real smart.

After that ordeal I reassembled it to take a look at the finished product. I don't have a grinding wheel or Dremel on hand and my apt complex has ruled against power tools in the lease so I went the way of the diamond cutting file. Took an hour to cut off the spur going pass by pass and then another hour to shape it. Kind of crude and not polished, but I am very happy with the results and after pulling the trigger I found that the trigger pull seemed about 2 lbs lighter than before. I didn't touch anything inside the gun since it is my regular security duty weapon for while I am in the guard truck. It sits crossroad in a simply rugged holster most of the time.

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Next project is going to be a new front sight. I need some help deciding between the trijicon offering and a fiber optic one. It will eventually double as a CCW for EP.

Any thoughts on the fiber optic vs trijicon? I'm leaning towards the trijicon because of the fact that it will be carried at night. But I like the idea of a good fiber optic sight with the red insert for daytime shooting and I really can't decide...
 

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Just got finished bobbing the hammer on my 3" ruger sp101 .357... Took hours because I lost throne of the little detente in the trigger assembly and had to do a full on carpet search. I ended up scanning the carpet with a magnet for 3 hours until I realized it was stuck to the callis on the bottom of my foot... Made me feel real smart.

After that ordeal I reassembled it to take a look at the finished product. I don't have a grinding wheel or Dremel on hand and my apt complex has ruled against power tools in the lease so I went the way of the diamond cutting file. Took an hour to cut off the spur going pass by pass and then another hour to shape it. Kind of crude and not polished, but I am very happy with the results and after pulling the trigger I found that the trigger pull seemed about 2 lbs lighter than before. I didn't touch anything inside the gun since it is my regular security duty weapon for while I am in the guard truck. It sits crossroad in a simply rugged holster most of the time.

Before:


After:


Next project is going to be a new front sight. I need some help deciding between the trijicon offering and a fiber optic one. It will eventually double as a CCW for EP.

Any thoughts on the fiber optic vs trijicon? I'm leaning towards the trijicon because of the fact that it will be carried at night. But I like the idea of a good fiber optic sight with the red insert for daytime shooting and I really can't decide...
On a duty/carry gun?

Definitely night sights.

You could do a XS 24/7 Big Dot or Express, too...
 

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Let us know how if shoots.

I'd have personally just bought a hammer from Ruger....it should have a little more heft for reliable primer ignition
 

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There RARELY are options for night sights on a revolver. If you find one like trijicon go for it by all means! S&W made only a few revolvers with night sights.
 

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There RARELY are options for night sights on a revolver. If you find one like trijicon go for it by all means! S&W made only a few revolvers with night sights.
There are options.

XS makes them, Trijicon makes them...with the SP101, you only need a front...
 

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Rugers (at least the ones I've owned: GP100s, SBHs, SRHs) have pinned fron sights. Finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard...right?
My S&W revolvers have a milled front sight blade...Glow-On to the rescue!
 

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Rugers (at least the ones I've owned: GP100s, SBHs, SRHs) have pinned fron sights. Finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard...right?
My S&W revolvers have a milled front sight blade...Glow-On to the rescue!
It depends on the model of S&W...some are pinned, some are milled.
 

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It depends on the model of S&W...some are pinned, some are milled.
Yup, true 'nuff. My J and K frames are all milled though.
I've bought replacement Ruger front sights before, but I don't recall seeing any actual "night" sights, just different colored inserts*. Lost one off of my SBH .44 out in the AZ desert one day...it just kinda...disappeared.

*My apologies, I meant to say: inserts of color....pc wordgames for the WIN, Alex.
 

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Please test fire same spring lighter hammer could have light strikes.
 

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I put an XS on my SP101 and was very happy with it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can get the mepro front sight off amazon for 40 or 50 bucks so I think I may go with that. I also like the green dot vs the trijicon ring.
 

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Please test fire same spring lighter hammer could have light strikes.
Good advice...but you're not likely to have light strikes on a DA revolver. The hammer is under spring pressure the entire way down...doesn't "release" like a semi-automatic. Still, best to make sure it fires reliably if it's gonna be a carry piece.
 

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Rugers (at least the ones I've owned: GP100s, SBHs, SRHs) have pinned fron sights. Finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard...right?
My S&W revolvers have a milled front sight blade...Glow-On to the rescue!
I bought some glow on. It is cool, and works, but I clock the time it remains visible in low light at 17 minutes. That would obviously seem to be visible longer the lower the lighting. The other thing about it is right after you hit it with the light, I think it glows too bright.
 

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I read somewhere that bobbing most likely have no affect on the gun in regards to light strikes. I believe it said that you lose some weight but gain some speed so it becomes a wash. The Smith/Wesson forum talked in length about that. The guy that said this was a very qualified gunsmith if memory serves me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I read somewhere that bobbing most likely have no affect on the gun in regards to light strikes. I believe it said that you lose some weight but gain some speed so it becomes a wash. The Smith/Wesson forum talked in length about that. The guy that said this was a very qualified gunsmith if memory serves me.
I was also told this at gunsmithing school while I was taking courses to get my armorers certifications. My hammer moves noticeably quicker than with the spur. The only thing you really need to make sure of while doing this is to make sure all of the contact points are either properly broken in or hand polished. I worked on a 2" sp101 that had some really bad tool marks and when I bobbed the hammer it would pause before striking the firing pin and cause log h&r primer strikes because it would catch on the little burs.
 
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