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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my XD40 now for about 3 months, going to the range about 10-12 times, and I was wondering if 3" groups at 25 ft was any good, or if I need to get more training. I am a righty, so if I am off, I usually go low and left, which seems to be the common area for rightys. I had a guy I was shooting with, who has shot a long time, and now that I am graduating college, I won't be in the area anymore for tips/lessons. I know I want to continually get better, but I just wanted to know if I'm on the right track or not. Also keep in mind, this is my first handgun, and I started shooting 3 months ago when I bought it, so please keep that in mind. Also, if anyone has tips for how to keep me in the 10 ring, they would be great help. Thanks.
 

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3" groups is all you can ask from a service grade pistol. The rest is up tp the shooter. For your low and left, dry fire practice and finger position on the trigger wil help.
 

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In Self Defense Situation 3" groups will do the job.

Dry fire and watch your finger position on the trigger and practice more, you will improve.
 

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Well it aint no target pistol :D .
I found that when I switched to the Dawson adjustable sights that my groups got smaller, down to about 1 1/2" at 20yrds, I think the factory rear sight on most guns is to wide to shoot real tight groups.
With factory sights 3" isn't bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just out of curiosity, when you say your groups are so close at certain distances, how are you shooting? I was just curious if you are doing this from a bench or standing up. I haven't shot from a bench, so I am assuming that you are talking standing. Please clarify this for me and excuse my ignorance.
 

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3" groups at 25 yards seems pretty good to me. I get three inch groups at seven yards, and feel like I am doing pretty good.

Now with my .22 Ruger MKIII I can do it at 25 yards. But that is not a defensive gun. It's very accurate, but not a zombie killer.

I think you are doing fine. In fact, I wish I was shooting as well.

Raymond
 

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+1

on good days I can shoot 1.5 - 2 inch groups offhand at "about" that distance (7 yards). That's about as good as it gets right now for me. I'm usually in a 3 to 4 inch circle at the same distance which I believe is more than enough for most defensive purposes. I can stay in that area with relatively rapid firing, too.

I've got a buddy that is going through the Gwinnett County Police Academy who's being taught to strive for speed and "hits" on a target, but not necessarily tight groups. He told me he's shooting a bit low, but we think it's because he's used to shooting SIG and Kimbers, and it now transferring to BLOCK for duty (damn grip angle!).

What makes me sick is that the first time my wife picked up his Kimber Tactical, she put not 4, not 5, not 6, but all 7 rounds into a 1.5 inch group at 7 yards dead-frickin center on the target. She still has the target hanging up on the bulletin board. Makes me sick! :?

-stunks
 

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For beginner, that is a good group.

As for your low left problem, as someone already suggested, try dry firing with snap caps. Your dry firing practice should be so that when you put a dime or a nickel on top of front sight, it should not fall when the firing pin strikes the back end of snap cap.
 

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9mmPara said:
For beginner, that is a good group.

As for your low left problem, as someone already suggested, try dry firing with snap caps. Your dry firing practice should be so that when you put a dime or a nickel on top of front sight, it should not fall when the firing pin strikes the back end of snap cap.
I've just recently picked up some snap caps myself. I find it to be a boring task though, having to rack the slide every time. Good practice though I suppose.
 

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I had the same problem with my grouping locations. Took a class this past weekend and made three mods to my grip which helped tremendously:
1) Finger position (as mentioned before). You are getting too much finger on the trigger, keep it on the middle to top of finger pad.
2) Finger pull. Practice pulling/squeezing straight back.
3) Web alignment. I was using what I thought was Ayoob high hard grip, but I've moved the gun a touch further down my thumb at the web of my hand- bringing my trigger finger further forward which makes a pull straight back much easier. That made the biggest difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
On the snap cap subject, is there any real need for me to buy them? I have heard since it is an internal firing pin, there is no worry in dry firing. I dry fire all the time, but haven't bought snap caps on the recommendation of a friend who I think is pretty knowledgeable about guns. I have heard many people on here swear by them for practice around the house. I might go buy some later today if anyone has a few good reasons to get them instead of just dry firing how I am now.
 

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darrinlowe said:
On the snap cap subject, is there any real need for me to buy them? I have heard since it is an internal firing pin, there is no worry in dry firing. I dry fire all the time, but haven't bought snap caps on the recommendation of a friend who I think is pretty knowledgeable about guns. I have heard many people on here swear by them for practice around the house. I might go buy some later today if anyone has a few good reasons to get them instead of just dry firing how I am now.

Well, it gives the firing pin to bounch back on. Which is evident by the small holes on the back of the snap cap casing.
 

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darrinlowe said:
On the snap cap subject, is there any real need for me to buy them? I have heard since it is an internal firing pin, there is no worry in dry firing. I dry fire all the time, but haven't bought snap caps on the recommendation of a friend who I think is pretty knowledgeable about guns. I have heard many people on here swear by them for practice around the house. I might go buy some later today if anyone has a few good reasons to get them instead of just dry firing how I am now.
Well, it gives the firing pin to bounch back on. Which is evident by the small holes on the back of the snap cap casing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, forgive my ignorance here, but why does it need something to bounce back on since it is already spring loaded? I know you aren't supposed to dry fire guns like a Kimber or Sig very often because the firing pin is external and directly hit with the hammer. I was always told that XDs and Glocks were okay to dry fire without this protection for the firing pin. Am I misunderstanding how the XDs and Glocks work, or is it just an added protection to use snap caps?
 

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With a few exceptions, it's generally ok to dry fire center-fire pistols. This includes XDs, Glocks, 1911s, Sigs etc. Some people have reported breaking their firing pin or screwing up the firing pin return spring from excessive dry firing. Using a snap cap gives you some insurance against this happening.

Personally, I have dry fired every pistol I have ever owned a lot (.22 rimfires excepted.) I tend to do 50-100 dry fires a day with my two primary carry pistols and have been doing that for years. I did recently start using snap caps under the theory that they are cheap and a little insurance is never a bad thing. But even so, I don't think there is a lot to worry about dry firing a high quality center-fire pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How many snap caps should I buy? Just the pack of 6 you can get or should I get enough to fill a magazine? I know these can help with clearing the handgun, as well as dry firing, I am just curious on how many I should get.
 

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darrinlowe said:
How many snap caps should I buy? Just the pack of 6 you can get or should I get enough to fill a magazine? I know these can help with clearing the handgun, as well as dry firing, I am just curious on how many I should get.
Even 1 would be fine, as you have to pull the slide back each time. And they don't eject, so you have to fish them out everytime. Again it appears to be a pretty long experience. If I'm not doing it wrong that is.
 
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