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Discussion Starter #1
I was watching a Remington 870 how-to video and the armorer insisted that Simple Green was the best thing since corned beef on rye. Feedback?
 

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There are people that use Simple Green with great success. I have an aversion with putting a water based cleaner in my firearms.

I have used CLP, Ed's Red (you make it yourself), and Poly Dunk It. Ed's Red is very inexpensive to make, about $10.00 for a gallon. I'm lazy about the way I clean the guns. Ed's Red, Dunk It and Poly Dunk It are for dropping the whole gun in the solution, waiting about 10 minutes, wipe it down and blow out any excees. Ed's Red is also a lubricant. I've become a big fan of the Dunk It solution but it's a little more expensive, but it does last a LONG time.
 

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I do use Simple Green and it works very well. ( For Me.) But i do air blow (All) my parts dry and wipe them down with good old oil, Never let me down.No Issues .But most important..No rust......
 

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Yes simple green is awsome, dont worry about the water. Here is what I recomend. Spray your parts with the simple green and clean them real good with a tooth brush. Then as you clean the parts drop them into a water bath to clean the simple green off. Now pull one part at a time from the water bath and wipe them off with a towel. Now oil all of your parts I like to oil my hands as well this helps spread the oil to all of the parts as I handle and put them back together this also helps keeping my acids off the parts as I put my machine back together.
 

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Used to use it on my mil-surps for the cosmo, switched to mineral spirits, just faster IMO. Never tried it on anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.
 

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Be VERY VERY careful when using simple green on blued or steel.

Simple green is dilute phosphoric acid (read the label!!). Acids are typically not wise to use on most metals if you expect a finish to last. However, if you exposed steel to the phosphoric acid it will turn a dull gray. You cause a re-dox reaction, but it also leaves a passive surface on steel.

Just be forwarned, if you use simple green, you are using acid to clean your gun.

-Dana
 

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Discussion Starter #8
DanaT said:
Be VERY VERY careful when using simple green on blued or steel.

Simple green is dilute phosphoric acid (read the label!!). Acids are typically not wise to use on most metals if you expect a finish to last. However, if you exposed steel to the phosphoric acid it will turn a dull gray. You cause a re-dox reaction, but it also leaves a passive surface on steel.

Just be forwarned, if you use simple green, you are using acid to clean your gun.

-Dana
I have decided it's not worth using the stuff (Simple Green) to save a few pennies. I have been using Cylinder and Slide's Dunk-it for polymer frames, no complaints. I was just curious about the Simple Green. Just goes to show you, you can't take everything even the so-called experts say, as the gospel.
 

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Thats why the water bath you rinse every thing off.

My bottles dont have that acid info, so I went to the simplegreen website. I read the MSDS and it does have phosphorus about .3%. But even if you drink the stuff all it says is to drink water and dillute. DanaT how quickly can this stuff eat you up? They have used it in the avaiation industry, and have something new extreme simple green can I use that on the extreme duty:) I ordered a sample of the new stuff to see what its all about.
 

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I've used simple green at work to clean nasty 5th wheel grease caked on things....off of semi trucks. I tell ya...full strength it's mean. I tried usin it on my rubber floor mats one time and as soon as it touched em....they went from grey to white...I had to soak em with tire shine to fix it.
However I imagine it would be awesome for removin that nasty black sludge that forms in guns...but not sure bout it hurtin anything.
I'm no chemist dangit!!
ajames you're the educated one :lol:
 

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I asked DanaT about how strong it really is. Although I risne off all my parts with a water bath so I dont know how long it would take to mess anything up. I clean a lot of guns and have never had problems....but I also dont leave the SG on the part either. Try www.simplegreen.com they make a lot of stuff. I got the hint of simple green from the American gunsmith institute Bob Dunlap uses it in his shop and swears by it as do alot of others.

Oh I am no chemist either.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No doubt the stuff works from all the positve comments here and at two other boards but since C&S's Dunk-It works just fine for me and a bucket of ths stuff lasts a long, long time, I will err on the side of caution and stick with it vs. SG. Thanks to all who have commented.
 

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Simple Green is an excellent cleaner/degreaser, a lot of people use it for cleaning firearms. NEVER use simple green on aluminum it will attack the aluminum almost instantly! It's OK on steel and plastics but, keep it away from your ARs and alloy framed handguns.
 

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It will remove blueing, even diluted. I am not going to argue with you. Use it if you want. After all, its your weapon.

I am 100% sure that it will remove blueing though. I have a nickel plated slide on a pistol for a reason.

-Dana
 

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I use simple green to lean my cars, not my firearms.

OTOH, I have never had one of my firearms get a dirty as described by other members (above).

Just too many other good choices to use for this use and I have not run out of those. Each to their own, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
abstraction_leader said:
I use simple green to lean my cars, not my firearms.

OTOH, I have never had one of my firearms get a dirty as described by other members (above).

Just too many other good choices to use for this use and I have not run out of those. Each to their own, I guess.
That's my feeling as well. And I'd say the same thing about using Mobil 1 but that would open up a rat's nest LOL. :D
 

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If you'd like to try a DOD proven water based cleaner for your guns, Mpro7 is pretty terrific, especially on the barrel. I have not known this to cause problems on my alloy frames or bluing. However, to get residue off the frame and slide there really is nothing better than solvent based Hoppes or starting fluid (ether). It's just these solvents need to be used outdoors and away from open flame. I also watched the American Gunsmithing video on Sig pistol where the gunsmith sprays simple green on a disassembled gun. The gun is then rinsed and air blown dry. I would imagine some customers would be irate if their $700 plus pistol came back with discolored frames! Maybe the finish on Sigs protects them....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Margana said:
If you'd like to try a DOD proven water based cleaner for your guns, Mpro7 is pretty terrific, especially on the barrel. I have not known this to cause problems on my alloy frames or bluing. However, to get residue off the frame and slide there really is nothing better than solvent based Hoppes or starting fluid (ether). It's just these solvents need to be used outdoors and away from open flame. I also watched the American Gunsmithing video on Sig pistol where the gunsmith sprays simple green on a disassembled gun. The gun is then rinsed and air blown dry. I would imagine some customers would be irate if their $700 plus pistol came back with discolored frames! Maybe the finish on Sigs protects them....
Yep, this is what the guy in the AG Rem 870 video did/recommended as well. Go figure.
 

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Margana said:
nothing better than solvent based Hoppes or starting fluid (ether).
+1 on the starting fluid.
 
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