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I'm getting punches. Do I need that AR15 Multitool Wrench? Anything else?
 

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Your barrel will be headspaced when they install the extension. You won't need to worry about it.
+1

buying the upper allready compleated is the way to go. building the lower is really easy and helps you learn about your gun while saving money. what i usually do is build my lower cheap and spend that extra money i save on a good upper since the lower parts really dont make much difference. so you better off skimping on the lower and putting that money into the upper or some good optics.
 

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A good tool to have on hand is a 1 gallon Ziplock bag! It's amazing how far you can launch a roll pin, lol.
 

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there is a good video on youtube also, type in ar15 assembly in the search it has 2 parts and is pretty good.
 

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Life, Liberty, Etc. Pro-gun stuff for pro-gun folks

2nd video is a step by step of assembling your stripped lower.

everyone else posted the arf.com site for walkthroughs.

my best tool that helped the most was a set of medium autolocking pliers from craftsman. they were perfect for rollpins, then you just use punches to make them flush.

also electrical tape to protect your lower from knicks and dings while working around rollpin areas like the bolt catch and trigger guard.

+1 to the big clear or white bag to work in, the detent springs will fly a mile if you slip and more than likely you will slip once. I did twice, once it hit the bag and once it shot out over my shoulder... luckily I had a wall right behind me so it landed bounced back under my chair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your barrel will be headspaced when they install the extension. You won't need to worry about it.
Reading those directions it looks like you take your barrel off to install a FFR. So will it still be headspaced? Or what is headspacing.
 

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Reading those directions it looks like you take your barrel off to install a FFR. So will it still be headspaced? Or what is headspacing.
You remove the barrel nut, so the barrel is "loose". You won't need to headspace it again or anything, just screw on the new barrel nut and be on your way.
 

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A handy item to have, if you don't have one of those handy-dandy little pivot pin detente tools, is a set of flat feeler gauges to hold the detente in while you insert the pivot pin.

Believe me, there is nothing that says "Ooooh, (insert your favorite curse word here)" than hearing a "sprung...click" as the detente shoots across the room, ricochets off the wall, then the ceiling before disappearing into an alternate universe where all pivot pin detentes go to be free...
 

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another good tip is to insert the largest Allen wrench you can in to the pivot pin hole from the left side of the lower drop in the spring and detent push it all the way down an push the Allen wrench the rest of the way through to hold the spring and pin down. Then put your pivot pin flat against the Allen wrench and push it back through

It's a lot easier than trying to work around your fingers

Also use your electrical liberaly you can't protect you recover to much

Also get some small cartons to hold your parts in those springs can roll off your desk and disapere in to limbo as well
A handy item to have, if you don't have one of those handy-dandy little pivot pin detente tools, is a set of flat feeler gauges to hold the detente in while you insert the pivot pin.

Believe me, there is nothing that says "Ooooh, (insert your favorite curse word here)" than hearing a "sprung...click" as the detente shoots across the room, ricochets off the wall, then the ceiling before disappearing into an alternate universe where all pivot pin detentes go to be free...
 

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Only glanced at the other posts, soosss if I repeat, sorry. Will go through this real fast. A four inch high quality smooth jaw bench vice. Kind with through bolts thru heavy bench. Set roll pin punches. Set pin punches. Medium ball peen hammer. Chunk of indoor/outdoor carpet. Barrel wrench. Torque wrench. (40-42 lbs ft)

Small medical forcepts. Small pocket knife blade. Rags. CAR buffer tube wrench. (if needed) ($cheap$) Borrowed set 3 headspace gages. Modified small C clamp for bolt build. (if needed) Small dimpled 2-3 inch C clamp for rear site build. (if needed) Bottle cold blue. Bottle aluminum black. Bottle SS black. (if needed) Small tube blue Locktite. (about 6 areas)

Dozen Q tips. 12 inch by 12 steel sanding block serface (if needed for upper trueing) (drill press work holder works fine) One sheet 400 wet dry sandpaper. (if needed) S Bottle acetone. Set SS automotive feeler gages for barrel indexing. (if needed) Carrying strap for quicky sight alignment/barrel indexing tool. (easy) Need about 15 feet distance.

Small flat mill file. One 600 grit square honing rod. (if needed) (trigger job) EXTRA TAKE DOWN PIN DETENTS AND SPRINGS. (Don't ask how I know) GI cleaning kit. LSA. Understanding of what your are doing. Six pack of very good beer. Some good background music. Thirty minutes with practice. Figure one evening without. This is easy and fun. Done over 150. HB of CJ :) :) :)
 

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Also forget to include the necessary barrel vise holding blocks, plus a heavy duty work bench about 36 inches high, stool, good bright lighting and adequate temp control for cold climates.

The bench surface can be steel or wood, but a piece of carpet placed on it really helps. The hardest part of the build is torqueing up the barrel sosss the barrel nut lines up PERFECTLY for the gas tube.

The next hardest part (in time spent) is reindexing the barrel if you find your AR shoots about 1 foot to the left at 100 yards. You want the stock A1 or A2 rear sites CENTERED and have the rifle shoot exactly straight.

That would not be your fault, but inconsistancy with the specs of the barrel manufacturer. With one build, this is impossible to predict. With 12 or 50 barrels, it creats real problems with hard fixes.

About the only other thing that can be tricky is that trigger guard roll pin. Oil it well, slot to bottom and use the bench vise to press it in. Go slow. Alignment is important. Don't break the ear. Enjoy. HB of CJ :) :) :)
 

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I got a kit from Del-Ton and the only "special" tools I used were some punches. Used a regular hammer to tap the pins in and had no problems. Also on hand were needle nose pliers and a block of 2x4 to support the 'ears' of the trigger guard so they didn't break off while tapping in the pin.
 
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