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Discussion Starter #1
All,
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with either of Lauer Custom Weaponry's coatings, DuraCoat or DuraBake? How easy were they to put on/durability?

What about Norrell's?

Any other ideas for other coatings or manufacturers?

I am thinking about using them on a few items (old bayonet, scope rings, etc.) and trying to find the best choice for my needs. Thanks.

JSR
 

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I am tempted but haven't bit on it yet. I also bought some phosphoric acid to do some parkerizing and haven't got around to that either. That and a few other unfinished projects laying around, I'll be lucky to get 10% of my "great ideas" done before my death (no timeline on that project either). :roll:
 

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I'm not sure if it was backed up before the forum was wiped out but somebody posted a link to a refinished ar15 with Norrels. If you search a little you might be able to find it. Norrels and Laurer's seems to be pretty easy to apply just airbrush them on.

Krackels
 

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I had just bought a new SA XD40 and it came with the Duracoat on it haven’t had the chance to test it out yet although the dealer claims it wont rust, corrode, fade, chip or scratch... I guess we will find out soon enough
 

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I tried the home parkerize thing. Tried it on a Charter Arms OffDuty .38. came out OK but haven't had the guts to try it on my XD. I'd rather pay somebody like Tripp Research to finish my XD.
 

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lYxFizzyl said:
I had just bought a new SA XD40 and it came with the Duracoat on it haven’t had the chance to test it out yet although the dealer claims it wont rust, corrode, fade, chip or scratch... I guess we will find out soon enough
I have a XD on order. Is this true have they improved the finish?
 

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Krackels said:
I'm not sure if it was backed up before the forum was wiped out but somebody posted a link to a refinished ar15 with Norrels.
The Norrels Molycoat was talked about quite a bit over at AR15.com. I read many rave reviews, complete with pictures of finished work, how-to instructions, how-I-did-it-myself stories, etc. Look for posts by "Stickman."

Here's a Stickman article from pre-ban.com:

http://www.pre-ban.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19024

Here's are similar instructions for refinishing a 1911:

http://www.pre-ban.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19053
 

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Can you use this on the polymer frame? Will bakeing the finish at 300 degrees hurt the frame?
 

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I know it's a dumb question, but has anyone tried using some kinda spray paint and clear coat?
 

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agalindo said:
Can you use this on the polymer frame? Will bakeing the finish at 300 degrees hurt the frame?
Why would you want to bake a plastic from? Plastic is a thermaly shaped substance, lets think about this for a moment....YES IT WILL HURT IT
 

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Duracoat has to bake at 300 degree in order to set. I've seen polymer frames with Duracoat finishes and wanted to know if they were baked a baked on finish or had they done something different.
 

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agalindo said:
Can you use this on the polymer frame? Will bakeing the finish at 300 degrees hurt the frame?
The Norrell's Molyresin will adhere to most plastics, like the kinds used on firearms. Norrell recommends curing the Molyresin at a reduced temperature (200 F.) for a shorter period of time (2 hours). Beware - plastic parts can melt and be ruined if heat treated. The Norrell Arms site seems to be down, but here is a FAQ from another site.

http://www.fireflyarms.com/molyresin.asp

Here's a Makarov refinished with Molyresin.

http://www.makarov.com/slide/
 

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Thanks I'll check it out.
 

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FatMatt1981 said:
I know it's a dumb question, but has anyone tried using some kinda spray paint and clear coat?
A buddy of mine spray painted his shotgun with a winter style camo pattern. Some spots have rubbed off but 98% of it is still there.

It's no Dura-Coat but it worked. Works best on guns purchased for less than $200 and snobbery/vanity are not an issue.
 

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8.6x70mm said:
FatMatt1981 said:
I know it's a dumb question, but has anyone tried using some kinda spray paint and clear coat?
A buddy of mine spray painted his shotgun with a winter style camo pattern. Some spots have rubbed off but 98% of it is still there.
I did this with my $60 CVA muzzleloader, primarily to keep it from rusting.
I used the Krylon camo-pack and it turned out well.

 
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