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So, I finally decided to stop being a wuss and attempt the detail strip of my XD.
I was always too unsure of myself to attempt it. I was (literally) gun-shy because of the smaller parts, the need to use tools, not really sure how certain things work, gotta-order-a-piece-if-it-falls-and-I-lose-it, I suck at stuff like this, etc.

I've done work on my 1911, Makarov, a friend's P-38, and numerous other pistols. Why was this one keeping me at bay?

Well.... sure wish I would have known how frickin' easy it is! That wasn't hard at all.

So if there is anyone else out there who hasn't done a detail disassembly of their XD, stop waiting and go ahead. You'll find a much better understanding of your gun, feel like you've accomplished something, and clean out some really dirtly little nooks and crannies.
 

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Way to go. If you really think about it not much at all to this process. As stated you are able to thourhly clean the gunk out of all the places that you really need to. I was pleased the first time I did mine it was extremly easy. Plus you could Identify any parts that might need slight polishing to to acess contact, easily identified.
 

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It is much simpler than some think. You need a punch to take apart the frame. Pay attention as to how everything is oriented before knocking the pins out.
 

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I was reading about a taper pin that if you put it in backwards, it has to be DRILLED OUT because it goes into a blind hole. What pin is that, the only blind pin I see in the diagram is the one that holds the extractor, is that it? If not, can somebody give a number from the parts diagram in the pdf file? How about a part that you can put in wrong (upside down, and/or backwards) that keeps it from firing? That one is supposedly easy to do, but after looking at the parts diagram, I don't see how ANY of that is possible. :-?
 

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I'm not sure what is meant by a "blind pin", but this pin is a little different. With Pin 12 in this diagram, you need to have a pair of needle nose to push it out from the inside. I didn't take mine out completely, just enough to let go of the spring. I haven't heard of the pin that you have to drill out if you put it in backwards.

Springfield XD Parts
 

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I watched him take it apart, and I didn't see any pieces that could be put in backwards, or that would keep the gun from firing, unless you're a retard (like that guy). I couldn't beleive his rant on plating, and when he smacked the slide down on the extractor! That clank made me SHIVER, just thinking about the nifty little ding in the bottom of his slide now. Then he scrapes around with that metal pick, like nails on a chalkboard! :p Maybe I'm just picky, but I don't like little dings divots and scratches in my gun's finish. :rolleyes: Note to ANYBODY watching that video series, DON'T scrape your gun with a metal pick, or slam the slide down on the extractor. Be careful with pics, punches, and other hard metal objects unless you want your gun to look like crap! Also, torsion springs TIGHTEN around the pins, VERY FEW exceptions. If in doubt, refer to the parts diagram. I have to give him credit, he didn't launch anything across the room, but I wonder how many times he went looking for springs the first time he did that? He seemed EXTRA careful about it. SO, I guess the BS about a pin that has to be drilled out, and the part that can be put in wrong was just a bunch of glock fanboys talking smack. Seriously, the parts diagram is REALLY clear, and you'd have to be pretty careless to put it together wrong. :?
 

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I watched him take it apart, and I didn't see any pieces that could be put in backwards, or that would keep the gun from firing, unless you're a retard (like that guy). I couldn't beleive his rant on plating, and when he smacked the slide down on the extractor! That clank made me SHIVER, just thinking about the nifty little ding in the bottom of his slide now. Then he scrapes around with that metal pick, like nails on a chalkboard! :p Maybe I'm just picky, but I don't like little dings divots and scratches in my gun's finish. :rolleyes: Note to ANYBODY watching that video series, DON'T scrape your gun with a metal pick, or slam the slide down on the extractor. Be careful with pics, punches, and other hard metal objects unless you want your gun to look like crap! Also, torsion springs TIGHTEN around the pins, VERY FEW exceptions. If in doubt, refer to the parts diagram. I have to give him credit, he didn't launch anything across the room, but I wonder how many times he went looking for springs the first time he did that? He seemed EXTRA careful about it. SO, I guess the BS about a pin that has to be drilled out, and the part that can be put in wrong was just a bunch of glock fanboys talking smack. Seriously, the parts diagram is REALLY clear, and you'd have to be pretty careless to put it together wrong. :?
Do you use a pic when you field dress? I do to clean crud out of the smaller crevices. And I think I used one to get the extractor started. I tapped the slide down on my work bench (wood) to get it out the rest of the way. Worked fine for me with no damage at all. If anything, I was afraid of doing something bad to one of the pins using my punches. I did end up ordering a new set of roll pins from Pistolgear, although I probably could have gotten away with the old one. I'd recommend a roll-pin punch for roll pins or you chance un-rolling them.
 

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Actually, there is one you need to put in correctly--the grip safety pin. But, I don't think it's possible that it would ever need to be drilled out.

The pin needs to be put in correctly because of an indentation that allows the grip safety spring to move freely. And IIRC, the shorter side of the pin should be on the left of the gun, if looking down the sights. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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The WAY he did things was just so careless! For normal cleaning, I use plastic gun cleaning picks, and wooden toothpicks. That way I don't scratch it. I have a set of roll pin punches, ONE of my other hobbies is metalworkig (lathe, mill, machine shop in the garage). He just didn't seem to give a squat about cosmetic damage! Do that to MY gun and you're likely to have a BIG RED HANDPRINT on your cheek. See, that's why I don't let other people work on my stuff. Cars, guns, anything I can do myself, I do. You want it done right, you've GOT to do it yourself. Nothing wrong with smacking the slide down on the bench to get the extractor out, just don't smack it down on the extractor once it's out!
 

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The WAY he did things was just so careless! For normal cleaning, I use plastic gun cleaning picks, and wooden toothpicks. That way I don't scratch it. I have a set of roll pin punches, ONE of my other hobbies is metalworkig (lathe, mill, machine shop in the garage). He just didn't seem to give a squat about cosmetic damage! Do that to MY gun and you're likely to have a BIG RED HANDPRINT on your cheek. See, that's why I don't let other people work on my stuff. Cars, guns, anything I can do myself, I do. You want it done right, you've GOT to do it yourself. Nothing wrong with smacking the slide down on the bench to get the extractor out, just don't smack it down on the extractor once it's out!

That's great that you take such care of your guns, but cosmetics have nothing to to with function. I've seen plenty of daily carry guns that have all kinds of holster wear, scratches, nicks, and the like and they always go bang. I've seen pretty guns have a lot more issues than ones that have been through the ringer.
 

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There's no reason to scratch, and ding up a gun if you don't have to. Plastic picks and toothpicks work just as well as metal picks for cleaning. On the inside of the slide where it woudln't show, I'd probably just pick the extractor out with a metal pick, or screwdriver if it didn't come out easy with non scratching tools. There's just no reason to be that careless! My brand new XD is going to look nice as long as possible!

I've got some ugly beater guns that function EXTREMELY well too. My mosin nagant octagon receiver 1891 puts holes in pennies @ 100yds, but it looks like CRAP!! The barrel was rusted to hell under the wood, and they wouldn't let me take it apart at dunhams. It was only $70, so I can't complain. I stuck it in a synthetic stock, and put a Nikon scope on it. I'm just going to leave it all pitted, it's a beater that fires cheapo wolf ammo. Other than the rusty spot on the barrel, it looks GREAT! It was the smoothest mosin in the store as far as the action goes, and no bad wear marks.
 

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When I read the title, naturally I assumed it was about your dad getting you a hooker on your 13th birthday like all gun-owning families.

Hooker on the 13th, first human sacrifice on the 14th, first 'human hunt' on the 15th.

Yep.
 

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When I read the title, naturally I assumed it was about your dad getting you a hooker on your 13th birthday like all gun-owning families.

Hooker on the 13th, first human sacrifice on the 14th, first 'human hunt' on the 15th.

Yep.
Man, what happened to the good ol' days?
 

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The sad part is this might actually be taken seriously. I find it funny though! :lol:
 

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That's great that you take such care of your guns, but cosmetics have nothing to to with function. I've seen plenty of daily carry guns that have all kinds of holster wear, scratches, nicks, and the like and they always go bang. I've seen pretty guns have a lot more issues than ones that have been through the ringer.

This attitude has always bothered me. Do not get me wrong, my carry guns have some wear. However, conveying the attitude that you should not be careful with things that could ruin the cosmetics does not make sense. Even from a value sense, the better your gun looks, the more it is worth. I own over $30K worth of firearms and take the best care I can with them. If my gun come back from a gunsmith with a scratch, that will probably be the last time I use him. I do not think that it is somehow macho to say you should not worry about how a gun looks.
 

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My 8 year old car looks nearly new except for some unavoidable wear on the drivers floorboard and seat.

My guns that are carried in holsters are kinda worn looking because Kydex holsters DO scratch and wear them a bit.
 

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There's no reason to scratch, and ding up a gun if you don't have to. Plastic picks and toothpicks work just as well as metal picks for cleaning. On the inside of the slide where it woudln't show, I'd probably just pick the extractor out with a metal pick, or screwdriver if it didn't come out easy with non scratching tools. There's just no reason to be that careless! My brand new XD is going to look nice as long as possible!

I've got some ugly beater guns that function EXTREMELY well too. My mosin nagant octagon receiver 1891 puts holes in pennies @ 100yds, but it looks like CRAP!! The barrel was rusted to hell under the wood, and they wouldn't let me take it apart at dunhams. It was only $70, so I can't complain. I stuck it in a synthetic stock, and put a Nikon scope on it. I'm just going to leave it all pitted, it's a beater that fires cheapo wolf ammo. Other than the rusty spot on the barrel, it looks GREAT! It was the smoothest mosin in the store as far as the action goes, and no bad wear marks.
Meh, I use a tooth brush and whatever else I've got around to clean the majority of my guns, XD included. I don't toss my guns down the driveway or anything like that, but I treat them like the tools they are. My duck gun has been used as a pry bar, boat paddle, hammer, seat, wedge, and probably a few other things. Cosmetically, it needs to be refinished after this season. From a functional point of view, it is 100%. It gets cleaned every night of duck season if I took it out on the hunt I guided that day. Same with my deer rifle (in a lesser sense).

This attitude has always bothered me. Do not get me wrong, my carry guns have some wear. However, conveying the attitude that you should not be careful with things that could ruin the cosmetics does not make sense. Even from a value sense, the better your gun looks, the more it is worth. I own over $30K worth of firearms and take the best care I can with them. If my gun come back from a gunsmith with a scratch, that will probably be the last time I use him. I do not think that it is somehow macho to say you should not worry about how a gun looks.

I never plan on selling any of my guns, and thus I care a total of 0% as to their appearance. I haven't totaled up my collection recently, but it's easily over 10k worth. Do you care how the face of a hammer looks? Or if a ratchet set has scratches on it from being forced into tight places to reach a bolt or a nut? Those tools are the same as guns to me. I take good care of them, and make sure they are clean, but a scratch or nick here or there means nothing to me. I have some guns that don't get shot very much, as they carry a huge sentimental value for me. Those guns I take the utmost care of, because they cannot be replaced. Other than that, it's a crapshoot. And I am my own gunsmith. ;)

As to the comparison with a vehicle...My 06 Duramax has a lot of scratches on it from going through the woods and through the fields. It's been covered in mud. It's had water in the cab. And it still runs 100%. Guns are tools, XDs were made to take abuse and shrug it off like Glocks, AKs, ARs, and other guns do. I'm not saying protecting your gun is a bad thing, but freaking out over the small stuff gets you nowhere. ;)
 

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It is your choice on how you handle your guns, and working guns get wear. However, I will do anything to not purposefully do any damage to the appearance.
 
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