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Post you questions, answers, and recommendations about the .45 & .50 caliber load data here.

Use this load data at your own risk. YOU, and ONLY you, are responsible to use common sense and safe load development techniques in working up to a good load for your own use. Always consult the Powder Manufacturer’s specs and stay below the maximums they recommend.
 

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What's a ball park cost to start reloading? What's an average amount of time it takes to reload 100 bullets? How much does it cost to reload 100 bullets?

Thank you. Aaron.
 

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Grimloktt said:
What's a ball park cost to start reloading? What's an average amount of time it takes to reload 100 bullets? How much does it cost to reload 100 bullets?

Thank you. Aaron.
Aaron, it might be adviseable to search for your answers and if you still don't find what you're looking for start a thread here in the Ammo can with your questions.

Since I'm here how about some recommended loads. I haven't started reloading yet, so these loads are only recommended loads from the powder manufacturer's websites.

It is advisable that you reduce the charge weight by 10% and work up until you establish a safe and reliable load.


Alliant Powder
Loads for .45ACP using 230 gr. FMC bullet, Federal 150 primers, test barrel 5", Minimum OAL is 1.19

Bullseye, charge 5 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 905 (fps).........Pressure (psi)16,200

Red Dot, charge 5gr.
Muzzle Velocity 910 (fps).........Pressure (psi) 16,200

Green Dot, charge 5.4 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 920 (fps).........Pressure (psi) 15,800

Unique, charge 6 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 895 (fps)..........Pressure (psi) 16,000

Power Pistol, charge 7.2 gr.
Muzzle Veloctiy 895 (fps)..........Pressure (psi) 20,000

Herco, charge 6.2 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 890 (fps)..........Pressure (psi) 16,200

Blue Dot, charge 8.5 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 900 (fps)..........Pressure (psi) 16,200


Hodgdon Powder
For all brands of powders use only the components shown. If you make any changes in components or get new lot numbers, you should begin again with the starting loads and work up to maximum cautiously.
The loads shown here are at maximum. Reduce them by 10% and work up to the load that works best for you. NEVER EXCEED THE LISTED LOADS.

CASE: WINCHESTER
BBL: 5"
PRIMER: FEDERAL 150
BULLET: 230 GR. Hornady FMJ FP

Longshot, charge 6.8 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 908 (fps)..........Pressure 17,200 CUP

HS-6, charge 8.2 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 825 (fps)..........Pressure 15,400 CUP

UNIVERSAL, charge 5.6 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 844 (fps)..........Pressure 16,800 CUP

HP-38, charge 5.3 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 832 (fps)..........Pressure 16,800 CUP

TITEGROUP, charge 4.8 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 818 (fps)..........Pressure 16,700 CUP

CLAYS, charge 4.0 gr.
Muzzle Velocity 732 (fps)..........Pressure 17,000 CUP



Vihtavuori Reloading Manuals here, get 'em quick.
 

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Krackels said:
Aaron, it might be adviseable to search for your answers and if you still don't find what you're looking for start a thread here in the Ammo can with your questions.
Oh... I thought I was supposed to place my questions here. Maybe the initial thread starter meant this section of the forum when he said here instead of the literal term here...in this thread ?

Either way, thnx for the response.
 

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Grimloktt said:
Oh... I thought I was supposed to place my questions here. Maybe the initial thread starter meant this section of the forum when he said here instead of the literal term here...in this thread ?

Either way, thnx for the response.
Sorry Correct you are! my bad.

I'll do some searching. There was a calculator that would calculate your component costs per round.

I found this excel spreadsheet.

I didn't account for shipping. I used the cheapest 230gr. FMJ bullets in the largest quantity, 2k Rainier bullets. I used the prices of Bullseye powder with the recipe above and Federal 150 primers. I didn't account for any hazmat or shipping charges because I'm assuming you could pick all of it up locally and pay less for taxes than shipping, and I assumed that you were using free brass that you already had.

I figured in a 6% tax rate if everything was bought locally or if shipping was minimal.

I got $0.1290 per round or $129 per 1000 compared to $200 for 1000 for purchased loaded ammunition. A savings of $71.05 per thousand or 35.52% savings.


Using this savings method and assuming $500 for start up equipment it would take you 7 thousand rounds before you broke even and then you'd be saving $71 per thousand if the prices don't go up.

Or using the bare essentials prices that I used below. It would take you a little more than three and a half thousand reloaded rounds save enough money over bought ammunition to pay for your equipment.

You could save a lot more if you went with bare bones essential equipment or your costs would increase if you had to buy your brass or if your tax or components costed more.
 

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Grimloktt said:
What's a ball park cost to start reloading? What's an average amount of time it takes to reload 100 bullets? How much does it cost to reload 100 bullets?

Thank you. Aaron.
Using a Lee Deluxe Turret Press Kit for $150 and a set of 4 deluxe pistol dies for $50 and a cheap tumbler for $60 you should have all the equipment you need except for the actual components.

Lee's website says for the turret presses, "you can load over 200 rounds per hour."
See videos for demonstration.
Videos
 

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or you can do it for less, and do what I did to get started...

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=351321
(Lee Pro1K Progressive press w/ .45acp dies, $130)

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=587176
(FA Tumbler, $40)

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=713372
(FA Micro Electronic scale, I got it on sale for $30 but it's back up to $63)

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=138039
(Lee Z-Bar to allow case feed to work properly w/ .45 & .40, $2)

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=198878
(brass polish cause I like shiny brass, $7)

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=215517
(bullet puller, $10 when I got it, $14 now)

My total to get started was $230 from Midway and another $9 at WalMart to get media (bird bedding, corn cob 8lbs) & home-made casing/media separator (collander & bucket). I already have over 1300 .45acp casings, so all I need is bullets, primers, & powder (and there's a gun show next weekend in Lake Charles where they usually wheel & deal on reloading items).

When I'm more comfortable with reloading, I'll probably make the Lee Pro1K be set up for strictly reloading .223 (and any other rifle caliber I may end up with) and buy another press with 4-5 stations for doing .45acp & .40smith (that way I can use the factory crimp die).
 

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Good call there. Like I said, I haven't started reloading yet so I'm just throwing out a ballpark figure.
 

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I just did my very first reloading session tonight with the Lee Pro 1000 I bought off a forum member.

4.5g of Win 231
Hornady 230g FMJ
Win Large Rifle primers.

Two questions:
How precise does OAL need to be?
My rounds mike out between 1.255 and 1.262 Is that close enough to 1.260?

Can you use Win Small Rifle Primers, instead of Large pistol?
 

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BBunin said:
Two questions:
How precise does OAL need to be?
My rounds mike out between 1.255 and 1.262 Is that close enough to 1.260?

Can you use Win Small Rifle Primers, instead of Large pistol?
You are fine on the OAL. It will very a bit because the case length may vary. As for the primers, on the 45ACP, you will need to use Large primers.
 

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I have been using the Lee 3 station turret press since June of 1999, and it can't be beat. I paid $83 for it then, and have loaded thousand's of rounds of .45 ACP, 9mm, .44 mag, .221 fireball, .223 Rem., and others. I have large amounts of brass and only buy on sale in large quantities, buy primers by the thousand, wait for sales on powder, and buy several pounds or more of the same lot for consistency. I don't use the Lee powder measure though, but use a Hornady powder measure and weigh each individual load. I use the Lee powder through expander die for charging. Sometimes I use the 4 hole turret and conversion kit so I can crimp without using the bullet seating die, depending on caliber such as .44 mag, (Heavy crimp), etc. I just like to reload, and shoot and hunt. Also CCW. I also load a lot of rifle using a different set up, and save LOTS of money on reloads, especially Weatherby loads. If you think you would like to reload your own, you can work up good acurate loads, plinking loads, +p type loads, etc., but always use good loading methods, and good loading manuals with safety in mind. Read all of the reloading methods in the manuals and elsewhere before even starting, and start by working up from the recommended starting loads. Who knows, it may turn into a hobby for you, like it did for me when I was 15 years old. (I'm now 61). Good luck...........Gary
 

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Can you use Win Small Rifle Primers, instead of Large pistol?[/quote]



There is a bunch of 45 Winchester brass around with small primer pockets. I've used small pistol primers as well as small rifle primers. The difference was 25fps faster with the small rifle primers, used the same powder load in each 5gr WST. Xray
 

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xray said:
Can you use Win Small Rifle Primers, instead of Large pistol?


There is a bunch of 45 Winchester brass around with small primer pockets. I've used small pistol primers as well as small rifle primers. The difference was 25fps faster with the small rifle primers, used the same powder load in each 5gr WST. Xray[/quote]


I could be wrong but I have never seen .45 acp cases with small primers.
Maybe it is 45 GAP ?
 

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Yes 45 ACP Winchester Winclean, can have either large or small primer pockets. ( I don't have any 45 GAP brass it's hard to find.) It's a bugger in the progressive reloading presses, have to check all your headstamps for primer size. Winchester now making 45 ACP with small primers and International Cartridge Corp (lead free frangible ammo) ICC headstamp, just found one the other day. I'll post a photo later.. Some guys I know were tossing the small primer cases, I have a coffee can full now. Brass is Brass Baby! :mrgreen: Still goes bang. So don't toss it, it works just fine. Xray
 

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Do research before you buy anything, that is what I did and am happy I did. I have been using my 550B for years loading several different rounds with no problems at all. Like I said, do your research, check the bank, then have fun. Reloading is great for stress not to mention the savings!;)
 

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Here's a load that I've been tinkering with and it works well for my DW Pointman 7, though I'll probably get some Polycoated bullets and have to dial back the powder a tenth or two of a grain.

5.0gr Vv N320
205gr LRNFP (originally for .45LC) sized .452
1.225 OAL
WinLP Primers
 

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Here is a .45ACP recipe that has shot very well for me. DISCLAIMER: USE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION!

Winchester WST powder: 4.7grains
Winchester Nickel Cases
230 grn. ZERO FMJ bullets
CCI #300 large pistol primer
OAL: 1.260"
 

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I have the Nosler Reloading Manual #4 (1996) from back when I bought my press. For the 45 ACP it lists the following for a 230 grain bullet:
Bullseye Max load = 5.1 grains at 790 fps.
Unique Max load = 6.5 grains at 808 fps.

On page one of this thread it shows the following from Alliant:
Bullseye 5 grains = 905 fps.
Unique 6 grains = 895 fps.

Can any of you tell me why there is so much variance in the fps. results from the bullet co. and powder co.? I assume they are both using a 5" bbl.

Is the reloading manual just too old; if so I will get a new one.
 

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metaljacket said:
Can any of you tell me why there is so much variance in the fps. results from the bullet co. and powder co.? I assume they are both using a 5" bbl.
Different bullets (if you can ever get ahold of a Midway LoadMAP, you will see the same bullet weight, same bullet type, different bullet manufacturer, with the same powder charge having different velocities)

Different test conditions (temperature, humidity, altitude)

Different test barrels (not all will use the same length, different rifling, wear, etc)

Different primers (yes, it can make that much of a difference)

In short, there are many factors that could affect it. That is why a person must always use load data as a guide and work up their own loads.
 

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Grimloktt said:
What's a ball park cost to start reloading? What's an average amount of time it takes to reload 100 bullets? How much does it cost to reload 100 bullets?
I'll give you my experience, with the normal caveat YMMV. I currently load 45ACP, will start loading 38spl and 357mag soon. I also load a number of rifle calibers, but that is a different forum.

If you want to get the absolute lowest reloading cost, you need to cast bullets. No question about it. Of course, many people will say that it takes too much time and that you must take into account your time when determining the real cost of reloading. I can't dispute the assertion, but I think of the therapuetic value of casting and reloading along with knowledge of the money I am saving, which is VERY therapuetic.

I currently use a 4 hole Lee turret press. I like it because you can get your dies set up for other calibers on spare turrets and never have to mess with settings again. I also like using the auto disk powder measure that comes in the kit for handgun loading. Very slick and easy. Deluxe kit at Cabelas, $80

I use a Lee auto prime for priming. Tool and shell holders $24

Lee trim tool, included in the kit, but you will need to buy the length gauge and shell holder for each caliber, about $3-$4.

Lee camfer tool, included in kit.

Calipers. Can be found for $10, just get some. Do not play around with cartridge length, trust me on this.

Lee Carbide Four-Pistol Die Set. $31 I can't say enough about this set of dies. The two stage setup for seating and crimping provides a very consistent round. The carbide factory crimp die is a life saver for auto loaders. My buddy likes to hack on me for my Lee equipment, he uses RCBS. He loaded a bunch of 45ACP and about 10% would not load in his pistol. We took them back to my place, ran them through my factory crimp die and every one of them loaded perfectly. Needless to say, he bought a carbide factory crimp die the next day.

Lyman master cast kit. Excellent value for the caster. I have yet to outgrow mine and I cast many, many bullets. $134

Sizing die and top punch, $25

Mold. I use the Lee 228g LRN mold, works for me. $19

Total equipment outlay, current cost, $327.

I have been able to get by without having to buy brass, but others may not be so lucky.

My current cost for my handloads is about 3.5 cents per round or $1.76/50 or about $36/1000.
The load is WLP primer, 4.4g Titegroup, with my hand cast 228g LRN.

Blazer brass ammo at Wally World, $10.99+tax. I'll ballpark it at $11.50/50.

Cost difference: $9.74/50. After 1700 rounds, you have paid for your equipment.

Time? That's a hard one to say, I never have timed all of the steps. The casting and sizing is the "longest". I would have to say actual time spent on 100 rounds is less than an hour.
 
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