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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1911 that is nickel plated starting to show some scratches and loose the shine. Where and who should I send it to, to have it refinished?

Haven't decided what the new finish should be...and really the frame is fine it's just the slide that needs to be redone.

Thanks
 

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Biggest question is what kind of gun is it going on. I would be hesitant to spend $300 to $400 to refinish a gun that's only worth about $400 to begin with. I'd make sure you plan on keeping the gun for a long time if you do.


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Dude..blemishish..dings...scratches...make a firearm yours....good grief

I hate it when some yuts has a pymped out AR or high dollar pistol...then cries *boo hoo* when he gets a scratch on it...my 1991A1 carry peice has 1/2 of its powder coating gone, hell all my firearms are USED not some chrome plated safe queen

Sorry for busting your balls..but jeez
 

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Dude..blemishish..dings...scratches...make a firearm yours....good grief

I hate it when some yuts has a pymped out AR or high dollar pistol...then cries *boo hoo* when he gets a scratch on it...my 1991A1 carry peice has 1/2 of its powder coating gone, hell all my firearms are USED not some chrome plated safe queen

Sorry for busting your balls..but jeez
So do you have any suggestion on where he can get it refinished? I think I missed it in your post.
 

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So do you have any suggestion on where he can get it refinished? I think I missed it in your post.
Exactly. We don't have to understand his reasoning or even agree with it. But it's his gun and he can do whatever he wants with it.

Customized Creationz is very popular with the Sig crowd for their Cerakote.

Dave Severns offers an ion bonding finish called Hard Hat that is very popular with the 1911 crowds, especially the Dan Wesson owners.

And PM me if you want some information about a gunsmith friend who does a hot blue in either matte or high polish. I just had him completely reblue and high polish a 1911 for me.

So there are three good options.


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Be sure ,whoever you send it to, can remove the nickle before applying another finish.
 

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Forgot about Robar too.


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I agree on Robar, I had them refinish my XD45C with their NP3 and it is awesome to say he least and very simple when it is time for cleaning you simply wipe it down with a clean soft cloth.The slide feels like it is moving on ball bearings. I love it.
 

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Have you looked into Duracoat?

Check these guys out they seem to offer alot of color options with what seem like reasonable prices, including FREE return shipping:

http://www.missionspeccamo.com
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info.

I do believe that scratches and stuff makes the gun yours but this is a custom 1911 in 40s&w that my father and I built 10 years ago, I shot in in IDPA for about 8 years and it's sat since then. Just want to bring it back up to 100% that way it's ready for another decade of shooting. It's worth having refinished but need to find a company that will be able to remove the nickel finish first before applying a new finish.
 

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I agree Ceracoat is a good finish. I have a LWRC M6A2 in OD Ceracoat and there is just the slightest discernible mark on the shell deflector. It is standing up really well.

I have a Colt Combat Elite in two tone (blue slide stainless frame) that I want to get refinished completely dark, totally blacked out, barrel hood, controls, everything done dark. I am leaning towards Ion Bond or one of the same by another name. It is supposed to be one of the more durable finishes.

One issue with fitted 1911's is if the finish is going to effect the function due to the tight tolerances. That is why I am considering Ion over Ceracoat, Ion Bond is very thin and Ceracoat will be thicker.
 

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Thanks for the info.

I do believe that scratches and stuff makes the gun yours but this is a custom 1911 in 40s&w that my father and I built 10 years ago, I shot in in IDPA for about 8 years and it's sat since then. Just want to bring it back up to 100% that way it's ready for another decade of shooting. It's worth having refinished but need to find a company that will be able to remove the nickel finish first before applying a new finish.
PLATE-TACULAR, LLC
Daniel can remove the nickle and make custom colors of Cerakote or Durakote. Give him a call. He has been working on a new finish and may have it perfected.


Contact Daniel Hidalgo at:
225-978-1308 (3:00 PM to 8:00 PM)
 

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Well...do what I did...to a buddy of mines RIA 1911 that he borked up trying to "blue"


Before..you can see his attempt to blue with the metal still having lube oil all soaked into it..it didn't take..then his attempt to clean it made it worse


The frame was even worse...parts of it had bluing, parts didn't..total mess!



Parts out of the parkerizing solution and after I drenched them in CLP..they are glistening wet with the stuff (thats why its shiny) but you can see just how black and thick the finish looks



Done and done..took about 4 hours to finish complete...with wash down, sand blasting, and parkerizing each part...assembled and function checked and it looked like a whole new rig!

Just washed it very clean in acetone (to dissolve all the oil/grease/funk that soaked into the metal)...sand blasted it with a cheapo Craftsman sandblaster and #80 aluminum oxide...re-washed it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner...soaked in a boiling solution of Manganese Phosphate on the kitchen stove till the part quit fizzing...took it out..rinsed it with as hot a water I could put on it, let the water evaporate off (due to the heat) then slather it it generously with Breakfree CLP and let it soak into the finish..

Nickel plating...good luck with that...

P.S. sorry for jumping on you wanting to get your pistol refinished...
 
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