Oil additives for a high millage car?

Discussion in 'XDTalk Chatter Box' started by hspratt3, Jun 12, 2010.

  1. hspratt3

    hspratt3 XDTalk 100 Member

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    I have a Camary that has 180k miles. I was wondering if anyone has used any of the additives in their high millage autos like "restore" or any that is added to the oil befor or during an oil change? And of course did they help anything.Thanks:wink:
     
  2. dantheman

    dantheman XDTalk Member

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    There's a ton of additives out there . I don't know if any of them really work . There are some motor oils with high mileage formulations .Does the car burn oil ? 180k on a Toyota isn't really " high mileage " if it was well maintained .
     
  3. PFC FNG

    PFC FNG XDTalk 100 Member

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    Lucas Oil works quite well, in my experience "Restore" made no difference. Although if you are not having any issues with your current vehicle I would just keep up with the maintenance and not worry about it.
     
  4. john_bud

    john_bud XDTalk 5K Member

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    cough cough {Bullshnitz!} cough cough

    But seriously, change the oil and filter every 5000 miles, a full tune up every 75,000 and it's going to be as good as it can be.

    Additives are (IMHO) only good for a couple things. Loosening rings that have become gummed up and sticking is one. But, adding 2 cycle oil at a 50:1 ratio to your gasoline will loosen them up too. And it won't smoke like an old outboard either.

    Another is to remove carbon gunk from the combustion chamber and the back of valves. But again there is a cheaper method that works as good or better. Just get a 16 oz squirt bottle of water and with the engine hot and running at about 2000 rpm spray a steady heavy spray until the 16 oz is gone. It's harder to do on FI engines than carburated ones, but still doable. You may need to repeat 2 times. Pull a spark plug to check.

    When in college, I used to get beer money fixing cars. People (college kids especially) don't seem to understand that maintenance is needed. A set of wires, plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, oil filter, new oil, setting timing and maybe adjusting the carb idle settings made 99% of them run like new. Always a happy customer and beer money in pocket.

    I would recommend that you do a full tune up and then see how it runs. If you don't have a timing light, buy one. The cost of a decent light and all the parts is less than the cost of a shop doing it and you have the benefit of a new tool. Time to complete is only a couple hours -- if you work slow.
     
  5. krunchnik

    krunchnik XDTalk 100 Member

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    It comes straight from a Castrol Rep we deal with at work,none of the oil additives are any better or perform any more tasks than the additives they mix in the regular multi vis oils.In fact he said that only adding these oil enhancements staggers the quota of already added detergents.So in effect they do nothing for your engine.In fact it does more harm than good.Of coarse to know if any of this is true a person would have to study the outcome of using these products in many thousands of engines over a given time.
     
  6. mighty23mouse

    mighty23mouse XDTalk Member

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    My boss and his dad use MotorKote and now my father and I do as well (trying it out). His dad has a Dodge van with over 700,000miles on it and his Dodge Ram has over 200,000 miles on it. My dad has a 2000 Silverado and I myself have a 2001 Suburban, both of which are daily driven and have over 130,000 miles on them. I can't say for sure it works but check out the video,i don't think it can hurt anything. You can add it to every type of oil in your car. Just don't try to put it in your brake fluid like my boss did haha. I do not work for Dodge,Chevy or Motorkote, its just the facts. https://www.motorkote.com/Competition.aspx
     
  7. dantheman

    dantheman XDTalk Member

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    " Full tune up " ? There's really no such thing . You don't set timing , carb. , or change rotor , cap. or even plugs anymore .
     
  8. Fdxpilot

    Fdxpilot XDTalk 500 Member

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    A TIMING LIGHT??? I haven't had a car that the timing could be adjusted manually in over 15 years. It's all in the computer nowadays.
     
  9. mighty23mouse

    mighty23mouse XDTalk Member

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    Also try SEAFOAM every once in a while. In the tank and run it through a vacuum line at a high idle. Will smoke like crazy, when sucking it up through a vacuum line, but it burns out all the carbon.
     
  10. VinnAY

    VinnAY XDTalk 1K Member

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    LOL yeah I was thinking the same thing when he went on to caps and rotors, timing, carb................
     
  11. VinnAY

    VinnAY XDTalk 1K Member

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    I might be convinced to try one of the high mileage oils from mobil, penzoil, etc.., but the snake oil additives are probably just that. I'd go back to the achaic standard of 3 months/3000 miles before those additives. As a side note, keep using the same oil, conventional or synthetic, I don't believe a change to or from the other would be good at this point for the rings and seals. I'd keep the same oil.

    One of the car guys tv shows once said tha the best thing you can do for your car is to subject it to regular servicing, nothing special.
     
  12. jmichna

    jmichna XDTalk 20K Member Founding Member

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    Andy Granatelli would be rolling over in his grave... if he were dead. ;)

    [​IMG]

    I believe the folks here advocating regular oil (and filter) changes at the proper interval are spot on. Nothing beats good maintenance for keeping your ride running tip-top shape. I run Amsoil Extended Life 5W20 synthetic in both our Jeep Grand Cherokees' 5.7L Hemis, and have since the initial oil change when our vehicles were new. Amsoil states use 7,500 miles change intervals; we typically change between 6,500 and 7,500. After more than five years, both vehicles' oil looks nearly like new (golden oil clear, no foul or burnt smell) at time of change.

    Having said that, back when I was a student and running beaters, I was a big fan of STP and Motor Honey to help my old Plymouth 225 slant-6 oil burner. That, and anti-oil fouler plug extensions and spark plugs two steps hotter than stock. When I'd pull in to a gas station (gas was $0.289, it was "Fill up the oil, and check the gas!"
     
  13. Kaboom

    Kaboom XDTalk 10K Member

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    Is there anything wrong with the car now? If not, just keep fresh oil and filters in it.

    We had a '77 Mercury with somewhere north of 120,000 miles on it. It was burning oil ( valve seal ), leaking oil ( rear main seal ) and we didn't have the money to fix it, ran a can of Restore through it and it helped a little, but ONLY a little.
     
  14. Deer Slayer

    Deer Slayer XDTalk 3K Member Founding Member

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    Heard MANY times and seen the results of oil additives. STP is ESPECIALLY bad, been told by people that seem to know what they're doing, it's got CLAY in it! A friend of mine used to put that stuff in his crown vic every oil change (302), and it literally plugged the oil gallery right outside the pump. Had to clean it out with mineral spirits, and blow the oil passages out with compressed air. Lot of work, and the engine seized less than 20k after that. That lucas oil stuff can make the oil foam up if you beat on it, and the oil splashes around too much. Saw a demo where they had transparent oil pans on engines filled with synthetics, and various oil additives to show how bad certain ones foamed up. Most of the synthetic oils foamed really bad, and a lot of the additives caused it as well. It's good old fashioned dino juice for me, none of that new fangled synthetic gunk.

    The only thing I've seen that showed ANY promise as a motor additive was motor kote. Competition cams uses the main ingredient in the break in lubricant supplied with their cams, but they don't use it with the other ingredients that cause it to embed in the metal. I was told that some parts simply need to wear in, and to use something like that would prevent the engine from breaking in. Sounded good to me, especially knowing certain things DO need to break in on a new engine!
     
  15. jmichna

    jmichna XDTalk 20K Member Founding Member

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    Curious about that demo you saw... was it presented by someone trying to sell something? Modern oils all contain de-foamers. Foaming is usually caused by an over-filled crankcase.

    All oils need to meet certain standards to certify meeting API and SAE grades. Also, often even more stringent standards are required to get listed as meeting auto manufacturer standards, like GM, Ford and Daimler-Chrysler. Foaming is included in the test protocols (ASTM D892). Bottom line, buy oil that certified to meet what your owner's manual says you should use for your engine.
     
  16. Achped

    Achped XDTalk 100 Member

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    G.O.M. Oil I heard is pretty good
     
  17. Buffman

    Buffman XDTalk 1K Member Founding Member

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    www.bobistheoilguy.com.

    There are a few additives out there that are worthwhile depending on what you're trying to do.

    There are quite a few that are junk, one mainly lucas oil stabilzer. It contains no additives and it simply thickens your oil beyond what you should be.

    Auto-Rx Internal Engine Cleaner Sludge Remover, Transmission Motorcycle Diesel. Reduces Emissions works, however it's not cheap. Some additives higher in ZDDP are good for older engines with flat tappet cams.

    I've never read much about motorkote, and there doesn't seem to be a lot about it on BITOG.

    Just run any API SM rated motor oil to a good OCI (5-7.5K), and you'll be fine.
     
  18. AKC

    AKC XDTalk 5K Member

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    Just go to a good synthetic like Mobil 1 and a good filter.
     
  19. Deer Slayer

    Deer Slayer XDTalk 3K Member Founding Member

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    I forget what it was even called now, but it was an oil additive of some sort. They'd take an engine (little 4 cylinder), rev the crap out of it until the oil foamed up, and shut it off. Then they'd dump the additive in, start it back up, and the foam went away. The one thing I noticed is that the old fashioned dino juice, no matter what brand, didn't foam hardly at all! Anyways, heard from other sources that certain synthetics/blends foam up too. It's mostly a problem in racing applications, and where the poor engine is going to be revved up for extended periods. Or offroading where the oil tends to splash around a lot and get whipped up by the crank. Most people would probably never have a problem with foaming synthetic oil, or additives.
     
  20. MrBoxx

    MrBoxx XDTalk 100 Member

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    A few words of caution:

    - Running too much Seafoam through the intake tract of the engine can result in hydrolocking the motor. One good method is to control the flow of fluid using a set of pliers on the vacuum line from the can to the intake tract. The motor won't like Seafoam being put in it, so you'll have to modulate the throttle to keep the engine from stalling. Have a friend keep his foot on the gas pedal to keep it running or use your fingers on the throttle plate.

    - Most oils already have an additive package in and of themselves. The Lucas Oil Additive has been shown to increase engine foam, as the bobistheoil guy video shows.

    At 180k, your most important thing is just to stay on the oil changes and maintenance. Spark plugs should cost you about $2/each at most, and if it's the 4 banger, should take the average monkey about 15 minutes to finish, in between sips of beer. Don't overtorque the plugs, as aluminum threads in the head will strip out if you look at them wrong.
     

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