glass like clear coat?

Discussion in 'XDTalk Chatter Box' started by sourpatch45, May 20, 2009.

  1. sourpatch45

    sourpatch45 XDTalk 5K Member

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    ok so im working on a 10/22 charger project and i want a really smooth glass like clear coat on top of the paint.... ive tried sanding one really smooth and doing tons of thin coats (with letting it dry between coats) but i cant ever get that glass like look or feel to it.

    any ideas would be great!
     
  2. yocan

    yocan XDTalk 10K Member Founding Member

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    I would think some sort of sealer is the way to go.
     
  3. thenug

    thenug XDTalk 100 Member

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    Have you tried wet sanding the clear coat with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and then buffing it out?
     
  4. agalindo

    agalindo XDTalk 15K Member Founding Member

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    Have you tried a light sanding between coats. Let the coat dry give it a very light sanding and coat it again. Try 4 or 5 coats with a light sanding between coats and you'll get what you're looking for.
     
  5. J B S

    J B S XDTalk 100 Member

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    Build up several dried coats. Wet sand with “color” paper, 2000 grit or better. Buff with something like 3M Micro Glaze. Or after last color sand wipe with tac free and shoot with clear coat in dust free both.
     
  6. sourpatch45

    sourpatch45 XDTalk 5K Member

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    i have tried sanding between coats and it does improve it but no matter how many times i try it doesnt get super smooth
     
  7. agalindo

    agalindo XDTalk 15K Member Founding Member

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    After very lightly sanding a dry coat make sure you use a wet paper towel to clean the dust off of the surface. I did my son's (Htown) SKS that way, just make sure and wiped all the dust off of the surface before applying a new coat. Make sure your clear coat sealer and brush are not contaminated with dust.
     
  8. .40-.45

    .40-.45 XDTalk 1K Member Founding Member

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    this should be your answer
     
  9. Civicman86

    Civicman86 XDTalk 100 Member

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    Whats a 10/22 charger?

    If it's a old car it might only have a single stage paint, I don't beleive they used clearcoat back then. If its newer and you know there is a clearcoat read on...

    I would first wash the car and take all the previous layers of wax and sealant. Then I would invest in a claybar and clean the paint up all nice and good. Next I would invest in a random orbital buffer or a rotary (just be careful with a rotary as it can burn your paint). I use a polishing product called Menzerna. It's pretty expensive but it will get the paint nice and mar free. If this car is not daily driven invest in a really nice wax (such as Pinnacle). If the car is driven alot you might try collonite, as it is very durable and still gives a pretty good shine. Waxes can get very expensive (some more than $2,000k+, so I'm sure you can find one to suit your needs).

    The key to having good looking paint is the preperation with the claybar and polishing. I can show you pics of before and after of my car after a polish session. PM me if you have more questions that I might be able to answer.
     
  10. sourpatch45

    sourpatch45 XDTalk 5K Member

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    its a ruger 10/22 pistol
     
  11. sourpatch45

    sourpatch45 XDTalk 5K Member

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    i think i need some sort of buffer.... i bet that would really help....

    i guess a trip to harbor freight is in order tomorrow
     
  12. Civicman86

    Civicman86 XDTalk 100 Member

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    LOL well disregard all my last post. I feel foolish hahah.

    If it has a clearcoat though you could still use the menzerna polish on it. If you use a buffer with a very small wheel BE CAREFUL. If it heats up to much it will burn it.
     
  13. GOPREPARED

    GOPREPARED XDTalk Member

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    I would suggest looking into some sort of an epoxy coat like the type used on wooden bar tops, a little thick, but very durable. Mirror Coat is worth looking at.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2009
  14. jasons

    jasons XDTalk 500 Member Founding Member

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    You just putting coats of poly on it? That's what I did with my Mosin Nagant. 8 coats and I didn't really sand in between coats. It turned out awesome!!
     
  15. AZXD

    AZXD XDTalk 35K Member

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    The finish coating you use, does make a difference.
    If you are using a laquer finish, try this.

    Step one, the grain needs to be filled, this is being accomplished by the multiple coats you have been putting on the stock.

    Sanding should occur once three coats have been applied, and you are basically sanding until you acheive a thickness that is equal to one coat.

    All sanding should be done wet, and you should probably be starting with 600-800 grit paper the first time through the process.

    After this, apply another three coats, and wet sand with 1000 grit paper.

    Repeat this until you obtain what appears to be a glass smooth surface.

    Apply two more coats, and proceed to a buffing compound, but be very careful as it is more abrasive than it appears due to the clouding effect the compound will have as it is being used.

    Finally (you'll hate this part) let it sit for a few weeks without messing with it much, keep gun oil and cleaner away from the finish ;)

    After this time has elapsed, use a good automotive paste wax, it's more durable, to complete the process.

    I'd stay away from a buffer, they're great for large flat surfaces, but on a rifle stock, you'll probably burn the finish (a few times) before you figure out how to avoid it.

    Best of luck !!
    You're basically after an auto finish.
     

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