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Considering first build. Need some advice

6K views 62 replies 18 participants last post by  cjvdh 
#1 ·
As the title states I am going to be building my first AR. I have some questions though in regard to uppers specifically the mid-length vs. carbine as I don't know what to get. I do know I want a 1 in 7 either cold hammer forged or chrome lined I would assume. I'm probably going with a nickel boron bcg. Also for the lower I know PSA sells complete lowers or would it be cheaper to just build it myself. I seen they had blem moe complete lowers for $169.99 which seems like a good deal. Can someone give me some feedback in regards to the direction I should go. Thanks
 
#2 ·
If you order anything from PSA just be aware that they (sometimes) have pretty slow shipping. That said, their stuff is fine.

Nobody can tell you what upper to get. Some like carbines, some like mid-lengths. Mids seem to be pretty popular, but its all personal preference.
 
#3 ·
If you order anything from PSA just be aware that they (sometimes) have pretty slow shipping. That said, their stuff is fine.

Nobody can tell you what upper to get. Some like carbines, some like mid-lengths. Mids seem to be pretty popular, but its all personal preference.
If I have future plans of wanting to add a quad rail would the mid length be a better option?
 
#4 ·
I believe mid length to be the all around better option than carbine.

You can add a quad rail to anything, just get the right length drop-in kit and you'd be set.

PSA's blem lowers are a good option at $170, but the trigger will leave much to be desired.

Personally, I would go with a 16" barrel (not counting the muzzle device), 1:7 twist. You can have a barrel that's chrome lined and cold hammer forged. I personally like bores that aren't lined and I like my barrels to be stainless, but that's the "benchrest" guy coming out in me.

You really can't go wrong anything BCM puts out. Right now it comes with a free BCG and a great price on the best charging handle out there.
 
#5 ·
I believe mid length to be the all around better option than carbine.

You can add a quad rail to anything, just get the right length drop-in kit and you'd be set.

PSA's blem lowers are a good option at $170, but the trigger will leave much to be desired.

Personally, I would go with a 16" barrel (not counting the muzzle device), 1:7 twist. You can have a barrel that's chrome lined and cold hammer forged. I personally like bores that aren't lined and I like my barrels to be stainless, but that's the "benchrest" guy coming out in me.

You really can't go wrong anything BCM puts out. Right now it comes with a free BCG and a great price on the best charging handle out there.
Yeah after reading a lot of stories regarding PSA with customer service snd shipping issues it scares me a little. What would be the preferred lower between PSA, Spikes, Anderson I know there all pretty much the same thing however I want something that's solid. Also not sure if I should get something pre assembled or just do it myself I'm sure I could figure it out.


Also is the nickel boron bcg worth the extra $40 over the premium carpenter 158 steel version?
 
#10 ·
Yeah after reading a lot of stories regarding PSA with customer service snd shipping issues it scares me a little. What would be the preferred lower between PSA, Spikes, Anderson I know there all pretty much the same thing however I want something that's solid. Also not sure if I should get something pre assembled or just do it myself I'm sure I could figure it out.


Also is the nickel boron bcg worth the extra $40 over the premium carpenter 158 steel version?
The lowers are pretty much the same. A lower is also given too much credit. It is the part that least matters. It just needs to be milled correctly. Everybody (mostly) gets their castings from the same suppliers.

NiB, just gun jewelry. Nitride or Teflon is far better as far as "performance". A nitride barrel is better then chrome lined. Carpenter 158 is just a brand name for tool steel. Doesn't mean it's better 8000 or 9000 series steel on a quality product.
 
#6 ·
...I personally like bores that aren't lined and I like my barrels to be stainless, but that's the "benchrest" guy coming out in me.
.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of a stainless barrel? I would guess weight could be either one depending on the intended usage.
I don't know anyone personally or even peripherally who owns a ss barreled AR and when you try to talk to most shooters who are casual aquaintences you end up getting a soliloquy about his rifle and how his pet piece-of-sh*t is a fabulous tack-driver and eventually a ham-fisted attempt at brainwashing....0 to precious little usable information in any of that tripe.
 
#7 ·
I own a SS barreled AR!!!



Stainless barrels are more accurate, but you do get what you pay for. I'd take a Daniel Defense chrome lined over a no-name stainless barrel any day. Stainless barrels "traditionally" have less barrel life and are more for low volume precision shooting. Once the rifle above settles in, she does shoot pretty well ;)

 
#8 · (Edited)
I think you need to ask yourself first, what are wanting to do with your rifle?

Looking up here at taylorjr, that immediately identifies, bench shooter, reaching WAY out. Good looking rifle BTW.
You mentioned 1x7. So am guessing your looking to have the ability to shoot the heaviest rounds. That being the case, your not looking for light weight carbine attributes. If ya want to clear a room in SD then the carbine is your answer. IMO the mid-length will serve you well

As far as building on buying assembeled, is just a matter of putting the pencil to paper, and assessing your abilities for a lower build. Recently I put together a complete Spikes middy upper with BCG, from Joe Bob Outfitters, married to a Spikes lower with a PSA lower build, for less than $900. The trigger is mil-spec. but it shoots great.

Best of luck. Get it operational, then it turns into a custom work in progress.
 
#9 ·
I was thinking of going with something like this to get started what do you guys think?
PSA AR-15 Complete Lower - Magpul CTR Edition - Black No Magazine
(Completed PSA lower not sure if I like the CTR or ACS magpul stocks)

Now here is where it gets a little confusing for me and I may need some help in regards to completed uppers. Out of the few choices I have listed below which do you guys would be the best for my purpose. It's mainly going to be a home defense / range gun however I want something SOLID. I plan to shoot possibly 1-2 a month at a local range.

PSA CHF 16 5.56mm 1 7 M4A1 Profile - Without BCG or Charging Handle

PSA 16 Mid-length 5.56 NATO 1 7 Premium Upper - Without BCG or Charging Handle

I was also looking at a few with rails already installed what about some of these barrels that would be in my price range?

(Here's a stainless steel in 416r)

PSA 16 SS Mid Length 5.56 1 7 SQR Hybrid Upper No BCG or Charging Handle

(Non stainless)

PSA 16 Carbine Length 5.56 NATO 1 7 Freedom Diamond Railed Upper - No BCG or Charging Handle
 
#12 ·
Mid-lengths are pretty popular so most people will recommend them. I said above, there's nothing wrong with either.

Personally, I prefer carbines. My 3 -gun rifle is a mid-length though. I bought the upper just to see what all the fuss was about.

My opinion, for what its worth.....my carbine's recoil is a little harder but its over faster. When I say "harder", remember it's only a 5.56 so it's all relative. My mid-length's recoil feels a little lighter but feels like it takes a little longer. The mid-length has an SJC Titan comp whereas the carbine has an A2 flash hider so its not an even apples-to-apples comparison. At one point though, I did have the same comps (Miculek) on both and still felt the same way about them.

Try to shoot both and see if you can tell a difference. If you can't, buy whichever one goes on sale first.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I think people mainly like the recoil impulse of the mids better. Someone will probably jump in with some info on pressures of carbines vs. mids etc... I never got into it that far, I can just feel the difference between carbine, mid-length and rifle length gas systems.

I'd rather just deal with the quicker, somewhat harsher recoil of the carbine. Deal with it and get it over with and get the next shot off. It's zillionths of a second difference so I fully acknowledge that it's all in my head, but it is what it is.

These things are like any other industry. Whatever is all the rage this year will be replaced by something else next year and they'll do their best to convince you that you NEED whatever the current tacticool gadget is, that you can't POSSIBLY operate tactically without this high speed, low drag, coated with whatever, gizmo. Sure mid-lengths are nice, but wait until someone comes out with a "mid-length plus" gas system, or some such nonsense, and you won't be able to give your mid-length away.

ETA: If it matters, and could help you make a decision, I'm not a precision shooter. If I'm on a person-size target offhand with iron sights at 200y, I'm happy. "Minute-of-bad-guy" accuracy is what I'm after. I'm happy with a 2" group with irons off a bench at 100y. I/we mainly do the "close and fast" type of shooting. All of my barrels (3) are chrome lined 16". 1 is a heavy profile carbine, 1 M4 profile carbine, and 1 heavy mid-length. I am currently assembling an AR pistol that will have a nitrided barrel, but I don't have it yet so can't comment.
 
#15 ·
I think people mainly like the recoil impulse of the mids better. Someone will probably jump in with some info on pressures of carbines vs. mids etc... I never got into it that far, I can just feel the difference between carbine, mid-length and rifle length gas systems.

I'd rather just deal with the quicker, somewhat harsher recoil of the carbine. Deal with it and get it over with and get the next shot off. It's zillionths of a second difference so I fully acknowledge that it's all in my head, but it is what it is.

These things are like any other industry. Whatever is all the rage this year will be replaced by something else next year and they'll do their best to convince you that you NEED whatever the current tacticool gadget is, that you can't POSSIBLY operate tactically without this high speed, low drag, coated with whatever, gizmo. Sure mid-lengths are nice, but wait until someone comes out with a "mid-length plus" gas system, or some such nonsense, and you won't be able to give your mid-length away.

ETA: If it matters, and could help you make a decision, I'm not a precision shooter. If I'm on a person-size target offhand with iron sights at 200y, I'm happy. "Minute-of-bad-guy" accuracy is what I'm after. I'm happy with a 2" group with irons off a bench at 100y. I/we mainly do the "close and fast" type of shooting. All of my barrels (3) are chrome lined 16". 1 is a heavy profile carbine, 1 M4 profile carbine, and 1 heavy mid-length. I am currently assembling an AR pistol that will have a nitrided barrel, but I don't have it yet so can't comment.
Thanks Brandon I am not worried about recoil at all I actually would prefer something a bit more harsh. I have my barrel selection narrowed down to a PSA carbine m4 style I'm just not sure between the regular chrome lined barrel or if the cold hammer forged / machine gun steel FN barrel is worth the extra $100 in the long run? I don't need a 2" group at 150-200yards that's not really what is #1 priority on my list. I do however want something reliable and dependable. Suggestions
 
#16 ·
You don't seem too particular....in that case, I'd get whatever's cheapest. Any of the PSA stuff would be great options. I'd maybe consider the Freedom line if the deal was right, and I'd probably steer clear of the PTAC stuff.

"You get what you pay for" is still true. You might find a difference in overall quality, fit and finish and bonus features between "best of the best" and "good enough", but you don't need to spend "best of the best" money to get "good enough".
 
#20 ·
Thanks Taylor and Brandon. When ordering from Slometto State between a completed lower and a completed upper which of those items seem to take longer to receive? I see some people say they got there completed uppers in as little as a week and others say a month. Just curious so I can plan accordingly and get whatever is going to take the longest ordered first.


Also does BCM? make a lower receiver? I would consider them but would prefer to have a matching lower/upper but I guess it really wouldn't matter.
 
#21 ·
i'd say it depends on the volume of orders for that particular SKU or week.

If you want a matching upper and lower, TRULY, you should buy a combo from Aero Precision.

Carbine length was built for SBR 14.5" M4's. it is overgassed on 16" barrels, but not a big deal.
 
#23 ·
It depends on what you're going to do with it. But unless you plan on putting 7000+ rounds through it I wouldn't get too caught up in chrome versus nitride treated linings.
If you want a rifle for accuracy, long and/or short range it's a whole different ballgame. If you want something to take to the range and are a beginner I wouldn't get too obsessed. Because you'll find out they are the male version of Barbie dolls. There's thousands of different accessories and options for them. Once you find out more about them you'll have knowledge and firsthand experience to build a fully custom one.
 
#24 · (Edited)
First ar

Mid length gas, m4 weight 16" barrel if simple on a budget
Complicated is 14.7 mid length and get the comp pinned (I vote lightweight for either 14.7 or 16, little more money swing much better, not suggested for a bump fire stock)

One of the tube modular raile systems, (Keymods) but for a first the ALG defense is self indexing so much easier to install with the gas tube straight (if its not striaght your gun won't run thats the only important thing building an ar, the gas tube in the upper reciever is perfectly straight) want to keep the budget low, the magpul stuff is half the price and very solid, you need a front sight post for the magpul, for the others you want a 12" tube and a low pro gas block.

Get the grip you want, I like ergos, easier on my wrist, many like the moe

Magpul MO or CTR stocks are the best bang for your buck if you don't want a standard m4 stock (which works fine)

Lower parts kit really doesn't matter, name on the recievers don't really matter, they seem to fit better whent hey are matching brands but not necessary.

Only other places I'd spend money if you have the budget is the trigger a geissle is the best 200 bucks you'l ever spend. Get one of the slightly enlarged carry handles (I like BCM IV) and get a decent bcg, as in spend over $90.

DON"T BUY PTAC/RGUNS and you'll be fine, google your brand names before you purchase.

Spend the extra 150 bucks and you won't need to replace things later.

My rifle cost 1800 and now it would cost under a grand, stuffs getting affordable.

Carbine is a higher pressure thing and has more malfunctions down the road, also wears the gun faster. ok in a 14.7 barrel, stupid in a 16

Mid is a slower energy pulse making absorption easier so faster follow up shots, and heats up the handguards much less. Get a mid length or you'll be wondering forever until you buy again.

I've built 30+ PSA guns out of the 50 or so I've built no complaints.
 
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#25 ·
Great advice on here, as always. PSA is pretty good, but you may find good deals elsewhere. Check out Joe Bob Outfitters as they have some good deals. BCM also has some great deals on uppers. Look around, lotta great places to shop.
 
#40 ·
I would check a newer store that I found during the scare..fatboytactical.net...they were the only ones I could find that had a complete upper for a reasonable price then. It's worth a shot...Classic Firearms is also getting into the game as well, and you might find some good deals there too.
 
#26 ·
The following link has a pretty good description on the difference between a mid-length or carbine length AR. I personally prefer mid-length for the reason mentioned in the article.

Carbine vs. Mid-Length Gas System on a 16 Barrel 2010-01-10 - 03DESIGNGROUP

When talking about the different gas systems on a 16" barrel, think about the distance from the gas hole to the end of the barrel. The longer that the bullet is in the barrel after the bullet passes the gas hole, the more gas that is getting pushed back through the gas tube and back into the gas key. The end result is a sharper recoil impulse.
As for lower, I consider Mega Arms lowers top tier. The following article is a comparison:

AR Lower Receiver FAQ 56k beware MMS CMT LAR LMT compared... - AR15.COM

Good place for Mega lowers:

Mega Arms AR-15 Pistol Forged Lower

As for upper, I like BCM and have a BCM BFH 16" middy.

S.W.A.T. MAGAZINE 8211 FILTHY 14 Slip 2000 Official Blog

To me, the main parts for an AR are an investment since it's something I'm going to keep for quite a while hence why I prefer top tier.
 
#30 ·
Build the whole thing yourself. That way you get exactly what you want. I built mine, it was easy, fun and a great sense of accomplishment. My AR-15 Thread XDTalk Forums

As far as where?

Instead of PSA, look up:

Primary Arms Red Dot Sights Holosights Rifle Scopes Sights and Accessories. More than 90 brands in stock Trijicon EOTECH Magpul and More - great stuff SUPER FAST shipping, no joke. They have stripped Anderson lower and upper receivers for great prices. I bought a Geisele SSAE trigger from them and it included a Spikes LPK w/o FCG.

Get your buffer, tube, nut etc and CTR Butt stock here: MAGPUL Milspec CTR Stock Kit - Black. DSG Arms - Defense Solutions Group inc. you can't beat that price combo anywhere.

I got my BCG and Barrel from RadicalFireams.com. Mine are Melonite coated and lined not chrome.
AR-15 Barrels
 
#32 · (Edited)
exactly right, but it never hurts to ask them to be sure because it seems not everyone measures barrels like the ATF does.

Chances are good, however, that the upper in question is 16" from bolt face to muzzle with a removable flash hider.
 
#33 ·
Thanks for all the help guys I am still unsure about the barrel. I think for me the mid length would be better however with so many other options like chrome lined, chromoly vanadium, cold hammer forged, machine gun steel, etc it's starting to get a little confusing for someone like me doing a first time build I have to ask myself do I really need a machine gun steel barrel? What are the differences just service length? I'll probably never even get close to shooting 15k-20k rounds through a barrel. Can someone please advise me on this? Also the PSA upper assemblies is the machine gun steel, cold hammer forged the only barrel that PSA sells that is produced by FN? Or are the chrome lined ones also produced by FN?
 
#34 · (Edited)
Chromemoly vanadium is what the barrel is made out of. there are basically two different grades available: 4140 and 4150. 4150 is part of the Mil standard and it is considered superior to 4140. *shrug* i dunno, i've used both, it doesn't really seem to matter. I honestly don't know what passes as Machinegun Steel these days. probably 4150.

Chrome Lined Barrel is exactly that. it's a Chrome lining of the bore of the barrel. The ONLY reason you'd want this is for corrosion resistance and to stick with strict adherence to the mil standards. Honestly, no one should give that much of a S**T about the technicals of MilSpec... and yet... anyway this is a SUPER old way of treating barrels and it hasn't gotten much better. basically when they drill the hole for the barrel, they drill oversize, likewise with the cutter. the reason is because the chrome lining has to build up in order to be effective. that means it's replacing the metal removed in the rifling process. The problem i have with this process is that it does not give a very even coating all the way down the barrel, and when you look at it under a microscope, it almost looks like a wavy pattern, like an onahole (do not google that at work or around children). this wreaks havoc on a bullet and will not generally give good accuracy. sometimes you get lucky... but the mil spec is like 3 or 4 MOA at any given distance... so take that for what it's worth (about 4.5 to 5 inches at 100 yards) MY preference is QPQ, also called Nitro-carburization, Salt Bath Nitride, Melonite, Life Coat, RF85, ...I think Glock calls it Tennifer?... and a whole host of other "trade names". it is nothing more than a crazy hot soak in a vat of salt nitride for a certain amount of time. it is then removed from the vat, cooled, polished and dipped again. QPQ stands for Quench Polish Quench and the process could not be more litteral. When it comes to corrosion protection, it's tops. and the best part is that it's harder than hard chrome, and is absolutely flawless down the bore. it's actually treating the metal, not building upon itself so there's no compromise for the barrel maker in keeping the bore tight. these are no doubt better barrels.

Cold Hammer forging is a process by which the rifling is created. you basically have three methods. CHF, Button, and Single point. CHF means they drill a barrel, take a shaped mandrel, stick it down the hole, and let tons and tons of hydraulic pressure pound the steel into the negative shape of the mandrel. it's cheap, it's fast, it's accurate, but holy **** does it stress the metal, and more often than not it's never de-stressed. many high end barrel makers will destress their barrels, or ensure that no stress goes into them for accuracy reasons. the second is button, and it's exactly what you might imagine. they take a carbide "cutter" that has six (or 4 or 5, depending on the pattern of rifling involved) sides to it, and drive it through the bore to create the grooves and lands. again, this stresses the metal nearest the bullet, but not as bad as CHF. still widely used. the last you will not see on cheap barrels. Single point is ARGUABLY the best way to rifle a barrel, the slowest, the most labor intensive, and oldest. it uses a single carbide cutter head to make single passes down the barrel taking off small amounts of material on every pass.

When it comes to gas length... you have to settle on a length. i'll tell you right now that the carbine length systems are design primarily for 14.5" SBR (Short Barreled Rifles, NFA stuff). anything longer than 14.5" on a carbine system will be over-gassed and will beat up your rifle a little more than normal. anything shorter may not function correctly (but this is rarely the case). Mid-length was the solution to those who wanted the shortest barrel possible without having to get a $200 tax stamp, which is 16". these also work great on 18" barrels as well. Rifle length systems are the standard for any barrel 20" or longer, and there exist some special extended rifle systems out there for the truly insane who want a 24 or 26" AR15. something about strokes and folks. anyway if you're dead set on a 16" gun, and you want the simplest of installations, a Mid-length gas system is your ticket. there's hardly any buffer weight tuning involved, you can use just about anything and get away with it, and it'll run and shoot great. a carbine will give you a harsh recoil and like i said will beat up your rifle a little more than normal, but it will be ultra reliable (at lest for a while anyway). Just don't suppress it, you will hate life.

I think you're over thinking this build really. this isn't going to be your last AR15, that i can freaking guarantee. Buy a completed rifle for your first one. something simple and reliable. Colt makes a GREAT rifle and so does BCM and hell even PSA and AERO Precision won't drop **** on your doorstep. It's gonna run, it's gonna shoot at LEAST 2 MOA with just about anything, and you're going to start to wonder how things work. pretty soon you'll start answering your own questions as you get to play with the rifle and make changes and see the results. will you want to change things on the rifle as it ages? most definitely. and when you get to the point of wanting to build one for the first time, you're going to kick yourself for not doing it in the first place. Just remember, you would not be where you are today had it not been for that first rifle.

remember that and you'll be just fine.

Christ, that was long winded... i think i need a smoke!

motivational speeches are not free of charge and i will be sending you an invoice for my services.













nah just kidding. I love this ****.
 
#35 ·
Chromemoly vanadium is what the barrel is made out of. there are basically two different grades available: 4140 and 4150. 4150 is part of the Mil standard and it is considered superior to 4140. *shrug* i dunno, i've used both, it doesn't really seem to matter. I honestly don't know what passes as Machinegun Steel these days. probably 4150.

Chrome Lined Barrel is exactly that. it's a Chrome lining of the bore of the barrel. The ONLY reason you'd want this is for corrosion resistance and to stick with strict adherence to the mil standards. Honestly, no one should give that much of a S**T about the technicals of MilSpec... and yet... anyway this is a SUPER old way of treating barrels and it hasn't gotten much better. basically when they drill the hole for the barrel, they drill oversize, likewise with the cutter. the reason is because the chrome lining has to build up in order to be effective. that means it's replacing the metal removed in the rifling process. The problem i have with this process is that it does not give a very even coating all the way down the barrel, and when you look at it under a microscope, it almost looks like a wavy pattern, like an onahole (do not google that at work or around children). this wreaks havoc on a bullet and will not generally give good accuracy. sometimes you get lucky... but the mil spec is like 3 or 4 MOA at any given distance... so take that for what it's worth (about 4.5 to 5 inches at 100 yards) MY preference is QPQ, also called Nitro-carburization, Salt Bath Nitride, Melonite, Life Coat, RF85, ...I think Glock calls it Tennifer?... and a whole host of other "trade names". it is nothing more than a crazy hot soak in a vat of salt nitride for a certain amount of time. it is then removed from the vat, cooled, polished and dipped again. QPQ stands for Quench Polish Quench and the process could not be more litteral. When it comes to corrosion protection, it's tops. and the best part is that it's harder than hard chrome, and is absolutely flawless down the bore. it's actually treating the metal, not building upon itself so there's no compromise for the barrel maker in keeping the bore tight. these are no doubt better barrels.

Cold Hammer forging is a process by which the rifling is created. you basically have three methods. CHF, Button, and Single point. CHF means they drill a barrel, take a shaped mandrel, stick it down the hole, and let tons and tons of hydraulic pressure pound the steel into the negative shape of the mandrel. it's cheap, it's fast, it's accurate, but holy **** does it stress the metal, and more often than not it's never de-stressed. many high end barrel makers will destress their barrels, or ensure that no stress goes into them for accuracy reasons. the second is button, and it's exactly what you might imagine. they take a carbide "cutter" that has six (or 4 or 5, depending on the pattern of rifling involved) sides to it, and drive it through the bore to create the grooves and lands. again, this stresses the metal nearest the bullet, but not as bad as CHF. still widely used. the last you will not see on cheap barrels. Single point is ARGUABLY the best way to rifle a barrel, the slowest, the most labor intensive, and oldest. it uses a single carbide cutter head to make single passes down the barrel taking off small amounts of material on every pass.

When it comes to gas length... you have to settle on a length. i'll tell you right now that the carbine length systems are design primarily for 14.5" SBR (Short Barreled Rifles, NFA stuff). anything longer than 14.5" on a carbine system will be over-gassed and will beat up your rifle a little more than normal. anything shorter may not function correctly (but this is rarely the case). Midnight was the solution to those who wanted the shortest barrel possible without having to get a $200 tax stamp, which is 16". these also work great on 18" barrels as well. Rifle length systems are the standard for any barrel 20" or longer, and there exist some special extended rifle systems out there for the truly insane who want a 24 or 26" AR15. something about strokes and folks. anyway if you're dead set on a 16" gun, and you want the simplest of installations, a Mid-length gas system is your ticket. there's hardly any buffer weight tuning involved, you can use just about anything and get away with it, and it'll run and shoot great. a carbine will give you a harsh recoil and like i said will beat up your rifle a little more than normal, but it will be ultra reliable (at lest for a while anyway). Just don't suppress it, you will hate life.

I think you're overthinking this build really. this isn't going to be your last AR15, that i can freaking guarantee. Buy a completed rifle for your first one. something simple and reliable. Colt makes a GREAT rifle and so does BCM and hell even PSA and AERO Precision won't drop **** on your doorstep. It's gonna run, it's gonna shoot at LEAST 2 MOA with just about anything, and you're going to start to wonder how things work. pretty soon you'll start answering your own questions as you get to play with the rifle and make changes and see the results. will you want to change things on the rifle as it ages? most definitely. and when you get to the point of wanting to build one for the first time, you're going to kick yourself for not doing it in the first place. Just remember, you would not be where you are today had it not been for that first rifle.

remember that and you'll be just fine.

Christ, that was long winded... i think i need a smoke!

motivational speeches are not free of charge and i will be sending you an invoice for my services.













nah just kidding. I love this ****.
Thank you so much so let me ask you this between these barrels what would be better for my intended purpose?

PSA 16 Mid-length 5.56 NATO 1 7 Premium Upper - Without BCG or Charging Handle

PSA CHF 16 5.56mm 1 7 Mid-length A2 Profile - Blemished w BCG Charging Handle
 
#39 ·
The build process seems daunting to someone just getting in, but I would say, after building a few in the past two years, that you should build your own, I think you can do it cheaper as long as you watch the shipping costs, and monitor all the sales...for example, Anderson stripped lowers for $49 and some places even have Bushmasters for a comparable price...non-blems, at that!

Try building, the process is fun and there are plenty of Youtube instructional videos on the process to help you if you get stuck. Enjoy.
 
#41 ·
Have you looked at the deals that BCM posts on it's website from time to time?

They had some very good deals lately on complete uppers that came with the BCG at around 400-450 dollars.

You could buy a PSA complete lower, mate it with the complete BCM upper and have a pretty decent rifle. Then...shoot the crap out of it...run a few cases through the thing...THEN decide what needs to be upgraded or replaced.

BCM is an excellent company to deal with. They make top tier stuff and their customer service is great.

I would buy an upper and lower that are a more basic carbine configuration...shoot it like mad then decide how you want to mod it out. If you went the PSA lower/BCM upper way - at least you start off with a quality piece that is easily modified.
 
#42 ·
I've said this on this forum before and I'll say it again... BCM is excellent! I was able to snag the SOCOM version of their 16" upper for around $429 (I think the sale is still going on). They included, for free, their new mod 0 compensator and BCG. THe handguard isn't included but you can get the regular carbine one for less than $20 or pick a much nicer one. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet since I just finished the build, but the quality is outstanding. Staking looks great, finish is excellent, overall a top-notch product for a great deal. They shipped it quickly and when it arrived there was a really nice ball cap and a bunch of stickers as icing on the cake. BCM = awesomeness. Check out their gunfighter charging handles as well. If you run a scope the larger mod can make it easier, depending on what type of scope you have and how its set up.
 
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