Discussion in 'XD Gunsmithing and Maintenance' started by kcmrrc, Aug 10, 2012.
what is the best cleaning solutions people have found to use during the bluing stages??
My directions that came with my blueing set said rinse with water between stages (cleaned with degreaser first)
I used acetone to degrease.
Cold blue or hot blue? Just curious.
If using cold bluing, water will neutralize the chemical reaction.
Most kits come with directions.
All of the blues work vary well. If you have been resurrecting it have found that every one starts off with it must be clean. However, none of them will say how to clean it and that is the secret to the blue working well. It took me about 5 years to find that secret. After trying everything you would think of for removing the oil from the gun I said to my self - what have not tried?
Soap and water!!! I took the dish soap from the kitchen along with a scrub brush and headed of to the shower. Hot water, soap and a scrub brush is all
it took to get it clean and the blue took vary well.
Things to remember: The blue only turns the metal black. If the metal is polished to a high shine and you blue it. You will have a high shine blue
job. If you want a flat non reflective blue job: sand blast it. If you do not have a sand blaster take it some were and have it done. After sand blasting
you only need to wipe it down with a clean rage and paint thinner before applying the blue.
Another thing about bluing. It is not the bluing that keeps it from rusting.
It is what you put on it after bluing it. Oil had been what most use since the gun was invented. So it is safe to say that is old school. Wax is better. You can wax it stand it in the corner for years, get it wet and not worry about it
rusting. I use ICE. You will find it in the automotive department. Why Ice?
It does not turn white like some other products. It also does a grate job on the car. I ask that you pass this information on to others. This is the only place I have posted this info. Larry Northern Minnesota
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