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"Colored inlay"

This is a discussion on "Colored inlay" within the XDTalk Sponsor Announcements & Showcase forums, part of the Forum Sponsors & Commerce category; OK. Here's the deal. I'm thinkin I'm gonna send the slide of one of my Xd's to Springfield, to get the Black-T finish put on. ...


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Old 04-28-2005, 09:49 AM   #1
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"Colored inlay"

OK. Here's the deal.
I'm thinkin I'm gonna send the slide of one of my Xd's to Springfield, to get the Black-T finish put on. I wanna keep my new Xd as new as possible for as long as possible. I already keep Armadillo on it to keep it from rustin....so far so good, but it's more grey than the jet black that I like.
When it comes back I was gonna try to get the lettering and everything red.
Are these "markers" a pain in the ass to use?? It says to wipe off excess....is it gonna be alot? I have a problem with my nerves, and my hands constantly shake....so I'll be upset if I get red stuff all over the place.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Course I'm kinda stuck in figurin out what I wanna do....spend the money on a new hella ****** finish...or save up for another XD!
Note to james....a demo would be coo!
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:06 AM   #2
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Matt I used the crayon technique to do mine in white and it looked great. This pic is the best view of it. I now have polished the slide with black lettering instead.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...gunporn001.jpg
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:18 PM   #3
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A crayon??? What the heck is up with that
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:10 PM   #4
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Matt since the crayon is basically wax it fills in like any other inlay it is the cheapest and easiest removed. You can also use a colored pencil which is a little bit more durable and still easy to remove and inexpensive. A bottle of red model paint will also fill in the grooves take a needle and apply the paint only in the grooves.

The inlay stick is basically a laquer paint and dries flat red. Basically you peel off the crusty hard layer from the tip of the stick. Then rub the compound in the grooves. It will look like a mess at first but then take a regular piece of writing or typing paper and rub it across what you just did. Dont press real hard just rub it flat across. The point it to remove the excess not whats in the groove. Keep using a clean peice of paper. Then put some mineral oil or something like rem oil eezox ect and rub a little of the oil over the sheet and clean off the outside of the pistol. You now should be good to go.
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:26 PM   #5
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Already too complicated for me
Crapola
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Old 04-28-2005, 02:08 PM   #6
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The crayola method I used was similar. Go around grooved lettering in a circular motion. Rub off excess with a cloth, I actually used an old cotton sock to do mine. Repeat until you have it all filled in.
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Old 04-28-2005, 07:44 PM   #7
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A crayon hmm....just kinda rub it in the letters? Will the wax stuff stay on even after cleanin?
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:09 PM   #8
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Mine lasted perfectly through two at least as well as about 300 rounds at the range. Worse case scenario is you go back over it.
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Old 04-28-2005, 10:18 PM   #9
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Something I did find out is that the older the crayon, better your results. I went thru some old school stuff from FOURTH GRADE (I'm 22, you do the math) and it stayed on at least 3-4 times as long as the newer crayons I've used. The newer ones seem to melt easier especially on the top Croatia etching.
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ampleworks
Something I did find out is that the older the crayon, better your results. I went thru some old school stuff from FOURTH GRADE (I'm 22, you do the math) and it stayed on at least 3-4 times as long as the newer crayons I've used. The newer ones seem to melt easier especially on the top Croatia etching.
I'm 26.. I don't HAVE any of my crayons from back then. They all became works or art for the fridge or mid morning snacks.
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