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Oil additives for a high millage car?

This is a discussion on Oil additives for a high millage car? within the XDTalk Chatter Box forums, part of the XD Talk category; zMax is the only one i have seen that works at all. I have used it in my old Taurus with 180K in the Eng ...

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Old 06-12-2010, 04:57 PM   #21
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zMax is the only one i have seen that works at all. I have used it in my old Taurus with 180K in the Eng and Power Steering sys. Noise stopped in the PS Sys and I felt it bought me another year here in the Phoenix Heat. IMO it really works!
zMax
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Old 06-12-2010, 07:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deer Slayer View Post
I forget what it was even called now, but it was an oil additive of some sort. They'd take an engine (little 4 cylinder), rev the crap out of it until the oil foamed up, and shut it off. Then they'd dump the additive in, start it back up, and the foam went away.... .
I figured it was a sales demo for an oil additive. They just added a de-foaming agent. Changes the surface tension of the oil so that foam can't form. As to their demo, who knows what they did with the demo oils they used. Even dino oils foam, like I said, especially if the crankcase is over filled. Foamed oil doesn't circulate very well. As to racing applications, a lot of racing teams use synthetics like Mobil 1, Royal Purple and Amsoil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKC View Post
Just go to a good synthetic like Mobil 1 and a good filter.
Mobil 1 is original factory-fill for the following vehicles:
  • Acura RDX
  • Aston Martin
  • All Bentley Vehicles
  • All Cadillac Vehicles
  • Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
  • Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
  • Chrysler 300C SRT-8
  • Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
  • Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
  • Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
  • Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
  • Mercedes SLR
  • Mitsubishi Evolution
  • Pontiac Solstice GXP
  • All Porsche Vehicles
  • Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
  • Viper SRT-10
Oil experts even recommend switching to a synthetic to help mechanical foaming issues...
From: Controlling Oil Aeration and Foam
Base Oils Effects
Base oils inherently have very good foaming tendency and stability, although there is some variation depending upon crude source and processing. Tests have shown a linear relationship between foaming tendency and surface tension. In a system where foam is generated mechanically, switching to synthetic oil may help.
  • Polyalphaolefin and hydrocracked oils, by virtue of their high surface tension, show relatively low foaming tendency compared to petroleum hydrocarbons.
  • Unadditized organic esters are essentially nonfoaming, but are
    highly susceptible to contamination or to effects from additives.
  • Phosphate esters show foam build-up at low temperatures, but
    above 122F (50C) they show very little foam tendency.
  • Polyglycols are difficult to categorize because they absorb water,
    which can influence foaming tendency.
Several studies show that base oils foam the most at 280 cSt. Either lower or higher viscosity can reduce the amount and stability of foam.
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:26 PM   #23
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Oil change every 3000 miles and go up to a higher viscosity oil to counter wear.. My toyota pickup has about 230K and loves rotella for diesels its 15-40 and has lots of detergent (common for diesel oil). Maybe go up to a regular 10-40 or if you are running a 5w-20 or 5w-30 go up to a 10w-30 to start with. tune ups are necessary and especially Timing Belts because your valves and pistons do not like to make love
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:47 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kd7vdb View Post
Oil change every 3000 miles and go up to a higher viscosity oil to counter wear.. My toyota pickup has about 230K and loves rotella for diesels its 15-40 and has lots of detergent (common for diesel oil). Maybe go up to a regular 10-40 or if you are running a 5w-20 or 5w-30 go up to a 10w-30 to start with. tune ups are necessary and especially Timing Belts because your valves and pistons do not like to make love
No real need to do so, unless you've got excessive bearing clearances from running your engine to the ground. I ran a 245,000 91 Ranger with the 3.0L V6 vulcan with 5w20. Oil pressure at driving was 55psi, and 18psi idle (mechanical gauge)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamescal View Post
zMax is the only one i have seen that works at all. I have used it in my old Taurus with 180K in the Eng and Power Steering sys. Noise stopped in the PS Sys and I felt it bought me another year here in the Phoenix Heat. IMO it really works!
zMax
easily put it's just colored mineral oil.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:54 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffman View Post
No real need to do so, unless you've got excessive bearing clearances from running your engine to the ground. I ran a 245,000 91 Ranger with the 3.0L V6 vulcan with 5w20. Oil pressure at driving was 55psi, and 18psi idle (mechanical gauge)



easily put it's just colored mineral oil.
Yeah ok! Have a nice day!
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:05 AM   #26
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Arrow Timing belts and oil pressure have LITTLE relation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffman View Post
No real need to do so, unless you've got excessive bearing clearances from running your engine to the ground. I ran a 245,000 91 Ranger with the 3.0L V6 vulcan with 5w20. Oil pressure at driving was 55psi, and 18psi idle (mechanical gauge)



easily put it's just colored mineral oil.
A timing belt should be replaced at the recommended interval, they wear the same unless the oil pressure has dropped so much as to cause the cam to seize in the bearings. Some engines, however had an oil pressure operated timing belt tensioner, which would allow the belt to slip if the oil pressure dropped too much. These engines could have a good belt slip due to poor oil pressure. Stupid design, and the engineers responsible should be stoned for their stupidity.

There are engines where if the timing belt snaps, it causes mass destruction. These are called interference engines, the pistons hit the valves while they're open. Another wonderful design where the engineers should be stoned for their stupidity. Some engines don't have this problem, the pistons have sufficient valve reliefs to allow the valves and pistons to clear. Odds are, any engine with a timing belt is designed to self destruct when a cheap rubber belt snaps in order to create obscene repair bills.
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Old 06-13-2010, 08:48 AM   #27
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I change my oil every 14,000 miles (yes 14,000) using Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance). It need a special filter but well worth it.

My old Camry have 300,000 miles on it before my son "bought" it from me. Still gets 32+ miles per gallon on highways.

For engine oil additive, I use TufOil. Tufoil Engine Oil Treatment

For fuel system cleaner, I use either Chevron and Seafoam.
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:31 AM   #28
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I used that Restore in my old truck and I think my dad still does in his. I think I noticed a little more power after putting it in one day, but it's been so long.

I substitute 1 quart of oil with Lucas oil stabilizer at each oil change. I also run the Lucas fuel treatment through my fuel tank. My dad also runs this through his semi which has an on-board computer displaying his current fuel mileage, etc... After he started using Lucas fuel treatment he noticed his MPG jump up a bit.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamescal View Post
Yeah ok! Have a nice day!
I wasn't talking about timing belts, hence the reason I said bearing clearances. There's no need to start using thicker oils on a properly maintained engine as it gets older. Like I said my beat up 245,000 mile ranger had more than enough oil pressure running 5w20 in it. I ran a 95 RMS with an LT1 in it for 180K on standard 0w30 weight oil. Some need to realize those given weights are ranges, not a specific value. It's possible to have a thick and thin Xw30 (and all other) weight oils.

Those fancy Extreme Shock rounds go boom, but they're hardly a suitable defense round, however people buy them because of Marketing. There are some additives that are worthwhile, but Zmax isn't one of them. I've used it before with no change in anything. Hardly worth the $50.00. I've used the right kind of oil in my power steering pump and it made the whinning go away. Must be mircale oiL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deer Slayer View Post
A timing belt should be replaced at the recommended interval, they wear the same unless the oil pressure has dropped so much as to cause the cam to seize in the bearings. Some engines, however had an oil pressure operated timing belt tensioner, which would allow the belt to slip if the oil pressure dropped too much. These engines could have a good belt slip due to poor oil pressure. Stupid design, and the engineers responsible should be stoned for their stupidity.

There are engines where if the timing belt snaps, it causes mass destruction. These are called interference engines, the pistons hit the valves while they're open. Another wonderful design where the engineers should be stoned for their stupidity. Some engines don't have this problem, the pistons have sufficient valve reliefs to allow the valves and pistons to clear. Odds are, any engine with a timing belt is designed to self destruct when a cheap rubber belt snaps in order to create obscene repair bills.
I agree that belts need to be changed at intervals. Although I took one off my subie with 80K on it, and it was fine. I was talking about his recommendation to use a thicker oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wired View Post
I used that Restore in my old truck and I think my dad still does in his. I think I noticed a little more power after putting it in one day, but it's been so long.

I substitute 1 quart of oil with Lucas oil stabilizer at each oil change. I also run the Lucas fuel treatment through my fuel tank. My dad also runs this through his semi which has an on-board computer displaying his current fuel mileage, etc... After he started using Lucas fuel treatment he noticed his MPG jump up a bit.
There fuel treatment stuff is okay, but as mentioned that oil stabilizer is junk. It contins no additives so it dilutes the add pack already in the oil, has no anti-foaming agents in it, and has a viscosity = to a 250 weight motor oil..
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:59 AM   #30
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I've started using BP with its new Gulf of Mexico sea foam additive. Its real new to the market and comes with a clean up crew and pictures of oil covered pelicans. I'll let you know how it works.

Sorry, couldn't resist being a little bit of a smart a$$.

My 2004 F-150 has 267k miles. I just change the oil every 5k miles. Got rid of the original spark plugs at 250k (seven of the eight broke - it was way expensive).
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