XD Talk

propellerhead · 04-03-2008, 03:50 PM

The kit comes with a lighter trigger spring, a lighter sear spring and a sear.

Refer to http://nwtownsends.smugmug.com/photos/238574776-XL.jpg for nomenclature.

1. Use a punch to push the sear pin (11) to the right as your are looking down onto the frame. You don't have to push the pin all the way through. Just enough to let the striker safety lever (25), sear (10) and sear spring (13) fall out.

2. Insert the replacement sear. Refer to the photo for orientation. Push the sear pin in just enough to hold the sear. Install the sear spring into the sear. Push the sear pin in again to hold the sear spring in place.

3. You can fight with the sear spring to get it under the ejector pin (12) or use a flat blade screwdriver to push the ejector pin to the right. Again, you don't have to push it all the way through. With the ejector pin halfway out of the way, push the sear spring to the left then down and tuck it under the ejector pin. Push the ejector pin back into place.

4. Next, reinstall the safety striker lever. Refer to the photo for the orientation. You have to get the bottom side in first, then slide it to the rear of the frame, then the top part hooks up and back.

5. Push the sear pin back into place. You can use the punch or an Allen wrench to help line up the pieces. Make sure both the sear pin and ejector pin are not sticking out.

6. Next, rotate the take down lever to the 2:00 position. While pushing it from the right side of the frame, pull and turn the lever. Keep turning it and pulling gently. It will eventually work its way out.

7. Using a punch, push the locking block pins (5) through. Gently lift the locking block (4) up and out.

8. With the locking block out of the way, the trigger assembly will be accessible. Pull the trigger back slightly then up. The trigger (7), trigger bar (8) and trigger bar spring (9) will come out. Replace the trigger bar spring.

9. Reassembly is basically the reverse of what you just did. Replace the trigger assembly. Replace the locking block. Make sure the slide stop lever (18) goes under the slide stop lever spring (19). The slide stop lever spring should still be attached to the locking block.

10. Align the components and push the locking block pins back in. Replace the take down lever by rotating it and pushing in gently.

I hope this helps. It's really simple. If you can field strip your XD, you can do this mod.

nickb · 04-03-2008, 03:58 PM

Great write up.

DocJ · 05-14-2008, 05:26 PM

Great instructions & pics! Helped me just install my level 2 kit. Can't wait to go to range next week & try it out! Thanks!

propellerhead · 05-14-2008, 06:52 PM

I almost forgot about this thread. There's more to it....

Some people that installed this kit had problems with light primer strikes. They sound harmless but they're not. What was happening is that the safety lever (C) hasn't pushed the striker safety (D) up and out of the way yet when the sear (B) releases the striker (A). The striker hits the striker safety instead of hitting the firing pin. Repeated occurrences can weaken the tab on the striker and can break. There were pics of a damaged striker on one of the threads about this mod.

agalindo posted a way to check if the striker was being released too soon. I did it and took pics to help anyone wanting to do the same check.

Remove the striker locking plate, striker spring guide, striker status indicator and striker spring from the slide.

With the slide off the frame, insert a wooden dowel and push lightly on the striker. You'll feel the dowel "bouncing" against the spring. Mark the dowel to show how far in it goes when the striker hits the striker safety. Push down on the striker safety and mark the dowel when it goes all the way in and not hitting the striker safety.

Put the slide back on the frame and cock the gun.

Push on the striker. It should be at your first mark. Slowly pull the trigger while keeping pressure on the dowel. Once the sear releases the striker, the dowel will go in all the way to your second mark. If it doesn't, you're hosed. You'll need to make adjustments to the safety lever.

If the dowel goes to your second mark, you're ok. That tells you that the safety lever pushed the striker safety clear out of the way before the sear released the striker. Repeatedly push and release the pressure on the dowel to sort of bounce it back and forth. Slowly release the trigger until you can feel the striker hitting the striker safety and the dowel stops at your first mark. The amount you had to release your trigger is your margin. That gives you an idea how much the striker safety is out of the way before the striker is released.

Sirius1963 · 05-14-2008, 07:15 PM

tag. Might need this later.

Warbirds · 06-02-2008, 12:59 PM

Great Post

HotIce · 07-15-2008, 10:36 AM

And in case the striker hits the safety, what are the mods to be done on the lever? Unless I'm missing something obvious, there's no info about this.
I was considering amount a few kits, but the above issue made me wonder about this one.

Dark Knight · 07-15-2008, 08:43 PM

This March madness sale was a mess as most of the sear kits had to be shipped twice

. Bad info from a local USPS. Bobs sear kits needed some filling on the sear and were not Drop in as we thought/told they were

. To be fair the problem was with the sear's in the 45's. The 9mm and 40S&W 99% dropped in right in But the 45's had some issues. My personal XDC 45 didnt have any probs but I didnt factor in the aftermarket trigger bar that I adjusted. Agalindo took alot of time to explan how to fix this. To be fair the adgustment could be done but the sear is hard as hell. We did exchange and gave people there $$ back. We stand 100% behind what we sell.Great post on how to install a sear though Propellerhead.