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How to remove rust from SD XD-9

This is a discussion on How to remove rust from SD XD-9 within the XD Gunsmithing and Maintenance forums, part of the XD Talk category; I recently purchased a XD40sc from the pawn shop that had a rust around the sights but the price was too good to pass so ...


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Old 02-26-2012, 06:53 PM   #11
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I recently purchased a XD40sc from the pawn shop that had a rust around the sights but the price was too good to pass so I took it. Called Springfield and they paid to have sent back and redone for free! Took less than two weeks and it looks awesome. Nothing but praise for the people at Springfield







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Old 02-26-2012, 08:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDRoX View Post
If you have the old finish on it I believe SA will refinish it for free. Hopefully someone that knows for sure will chime in.
they sure will, I call them about my 1911 and they acted shocked but sent a RMA and FedEx picked it up and had it back in 2 weeks. Excellent CS
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:57 PM   #13
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My XD9sc seems to rust very easily. I have the black finish version.

I have to be careful to wipe it down with a well oiled rag or silicone cloth after handling it or else I'll find surface rust where I've touched it in 24 hours. I keep mine in a nylon Uncle Mike's holster in a bedside drawer during the day and out on the bedside table while I'm sleeping. I usually get out to the range with it once a week and am diligent about cleaning and oiling it after every use.

This quick formation of rust has me worried about using it for CC. Is it normal to have such quick rust formation from just touching the metal?
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:42 AM   #14
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@Blacksamwell

I am curious about the name of the cleaner and oil that you use and whether you live in a high humidity part of the country.

Not to preach to those who may know more than me but there are degreaser type cleaners and there are solvent type cleaners. The difference is that solvent based cleaners are metal-aggressive and dissolve copper and lead whereas degreasers are mild and remove grime, oils, carbon and powder. A degreaser will help remove but not dissolve copper and lead, if those substances are sticking lightly via powder or carbon residue to the metal surfaces.

When necessary, the solvent cleaner should be used where needed and probably not on the outer slide. After using a solvent and it has dried, some manufacturers say to clean the metal with 90+% isopropyl alcohol to remove the solvent's residue. Then apply the oil. I think some people are not spending the time to remove the solvent residue or are storing their firearms long-term after applying an all-in-one product that contains a solvent type cleaner.

The best approach is to avoid the all-in-one products (a.k.a. CLPs) that contain a solvent type cleaner. Buy separate bottles of degreaser, solvent and oil and use each based on need. An all-in-one product (e.g. Ballistol which contains mineral oil, alcohol degreaser and a mild solvent) does not give you that choice. After extensive research my choice is the Mil-Comm family of products sold under the NRA brand name: shop produtcs

Maybe this will be of help. I found this remark from another thread: "A combination of humidity, heat and various chemicals, including some of those found in common cleaning solvents can break down the polyfoam (in your Springfield gun case) into various acids, etc. that will attack metal." So if that is true then you don't want solvent (or solvent residue) coming into contact with the foam in your case.

And this is interestsing: http://slip2000.eu/media/lubricant/C...n_Analysis.pdf
If they had used Mil-Comm's oil (MC2500) rather than paste (TW25b) in that test, then the rust would have probably been less because the oil seeps better into the metal.

I found these videos of amatuer experiments to be a real eye-opener:





All of the above is my opinion. Your view and results may be different. I am not a shill for any manufacturer or product, and I am not an expert.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:30 AM   #15
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I had this happen to me after owning the gun for 3 months in an air conditioned enviroment. I called springfield, and they paid for shipping to have the slide fixed. Great customer service, and I would recommend this approach to avoid complications with your warrenty.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:31 PM   #16
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Concealed Carry leads to rust

Glad to see that this topic has already been covered. I had a bit of a surprise, this afternoon. I was setting up to do some dry practice (drawing from concealed holster), and I found that I could not remove my loaded magazine from the weapon! It didn't take long to discover the issue--rust. While it was not apparent from the outside, deep inside the magazine well, rust had developed on the magazine catch and magazine release button to the point that I was no longer able to depress the button (I am RH). This pistol is carried for most hours of the day in a IWB holster. I live in Texas. It is hot, down here. Very much so. I might even sweat, occasionally. Nevertheless, when I pull the weapon out of the holster, each night, the most I have ever noticed is a little bit of condensate on the side of the gun closest to my body. I wipe it off on my T-shirt, and I haven't given it a second thought--till now. As they say "there is more than meets the eye", going on in there! I'll call SA tomorrow and see if they want me to send this in for refinishing/replacement. Here is a closeup showing the buildup of rust on the catch and the release button.
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How to remove rust from SD XD-9-xd9sc-magazine-release-rust-closeup-4jul12.jpg  
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:33 PM   #17
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Smile

Got my gun back from SA, and they replaced the rusted components. I was hoping they might explain why it rusted, in the first place, and perhaps offer some suggestions for prevention of this condition, in the future. They did not. But I'm back in business...for now. It seems the melonite finish on the slide is impervious to moisture. I was curious whether SA employs the same melonite finish on the magazine release button and catch. I cannot tell by looking at the new parts whether they are or are not.
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:01 PM   #18
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electrolosys-youtube it. its super easy and cheap. all you need is a hunk of ferrous (rebar is what i use)metal, baking soda, H2O and a battery charger.
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