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aftermarket sear- springer vs powder

This is a discussion on aftermarket sear- springer vs powder within the XD Gunsmithing and Maintenance forums, part of the XD Talk category; I'm not looking to ligthen the trigger or change pretravel or reset by much... i just want a crisper smooth break... I'm thinking of changing ...


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Old 01-11-2011, 12:32 AM   #1
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aftermarket sear- springer vs powder

I'm not looking to ligthen the trigger or change pretravel or reset by much... i just want a crisper smooth break...

I'm thinking of changing my xd40sc sear with a modified one... but not sure if I should go with powder - does not change trigger travel

or the springer unit which move the trigger break point forward...

anybody ever try doing the sear only replacement?

I'm not a competition shooter and really don't have an issue with the reset/pretravel enough to want to replace that part... and definitely don't want a hair trigger as I carry this gun sometimes...

thanks for your input...
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:30 PM   #2
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I have used both. You'll like the PowderRiver better. The Springer sear if used by itself does offer a nice break, but it will cut pretravel in half and almost double over-travel. The O-T can be annoying and decrease your accuracy during rapid fire or double taps.

The replacement is very easy procedure, you'll basically just be pushing two pins and it takes less than 10 minutes.
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:42 PM   #3
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Anyone here modified the original sear and grind the back off a tad bit to modify the angle? I looks like a very simple operation if you are careful and know what you are doing.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:40 PM   #4
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Do not alter the angle on the sear if it becomes negative you'll have a dangerous gun. If you don't know what your doing, don't do it.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:55 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by agalindo View Post
Do not alter the angle on the sear if it becomes negative you'll have a dangerous gun. If you don't know what your doing, don't do it.
I agree. That is always the case, especially in firearms. But if you look at it and understand how it works, it really is very simple.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:59 PM   #6
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Grinding the back of sear is not the answer, I you truly understood how the sear/striker interact you would see that.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agalindo View Post
Do not alter the angle on the sear if it becomes negative you'll have a dangerous gun. If you don't know what your doing, don't do it.
This is the best advice.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:21 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by agalindo View Post
Grinding the back of sear is not the answer, I you truly understood how the sear/striker interact you would see that.
Let agree to disagree then.

I will reiterate that I agree with your advise of not doing anything unless you know what you are doing 100%.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:24 PM   #9
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Yep.
Just one last thing. I've altered OEM parts to do trigger jobs before there were aftermarket kits. I wouldn't recommend doing what your suggesting. Just my opinion.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:26 PM   #10
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thanks for the input... i've already completely field stripped both guns (and polished all the trigger parts with 1200 grit paper...including the plastic frame molding marks) so I know al the internals and replacing the sear is a 10 minute task at most...

that being said I agree that modifying the original sear is dangerous...

because of the angle of the sear face as it travels, if you grind the sear to a different angle, it will lose vertical height by a small factor (the face is not completely vertical all the time so part of what you grind is a vertical portion..)that could lead to accidental discharge without pulling the trigger...

thanks for the insight on Over travel with the springer sear...

I might just try the powder sear, then if I don't like what I get, buy the rest of the kit...

any other opinions are welcome... thanks
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