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Old 06-22-2008, 07:17 PM   #11
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My favorite, Ranier 230 gr rn went from 7.3 cents to 12 cents apiece!- cast bullets are 1-2 cents apiece (exclusive of your time)- I can shoot 10X as much for the same money!!
For target .45 acp velocities wheel weights are fine- no need for linotype-I save that for my .357!!
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC 0802 View Post
The .45 ACP in a semi auto configuration headspaces off the mouth of the case.
That's right, and is the reason why you don't want to get carried away with crimping.

Casting your own lead bullets makes shooting much cheaper, and is worth a little extra cleaning. I've shot thousands of rnds. of lead thru my 1911 and there's been no leading of the barrel. (i cast for my 45-70 also)
If you get the lead for free, all that is involved is work instead of money paying for you bullets.
It will make for a quick return on your investment of casting equipment... after that, it's free boolits!
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:28 PM   #13
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I used lead one time just to be cheaper and try them out for range time, they shot good, and the gun was flawless. Until I got home to clean it, looked down the barrel and said oh my god. I though I screwed the barrel up but it took a good hr to an hr and a half to get it all clean. That is just my one and only experience with it.
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:53 PM   #14
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I found a quick and easy way to clean off all the wax bullet lube that comes with shooting lead. I bought a can of Naptha at the paint store. It is used in the printing industry as an ink solvent. It is similar to, if not the exact same ingrediant used in several aresol gun scrubber products as well as Ronsons lighter fluid. It will not harm metal BUT, it does such a good job cleaning that it removes all traces of oil so you must re oil yout pistol immediatly after cleaning. I use Break Free CLP.
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:06 PM   #15
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Go to Walmart and get some copper scrub pads (Chore Boy is the brand name). Cut off a section and wrap it around the included SA cleaning brush. Insert it into the chamber and twist it a few times, then run it in and out of the bore a few times.

The copper is way softer than your barrel and won't narf it up.

Takes me less than a minute to clean my barrels after 300 or so rounds of lead.
No stinky chemicals needed
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Old 06-22-2008, 10:21 PM   #16
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I load 230 Gr. RN Oregon Trail Laser Cast bullets over 5.5 Gr. of Unique. They run fine through my XD45 for USPSA matches, Bowling Pin Shoots, and practice. My last USPSA match was around 165 rounds. The gun was dirty, but functioned well.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bellevue_Dude View Post
Out of curiosity, why do you guys opt for lead? I thought lead rounds left the barrel 'dirtier' and that it was generally harder to clean. Is it true or just a misconception?

Disclaimers: I use factory FMJ or JHP for practice, I don't know how to reload ammo and I assume (possibly out of ignorance) that lead rounds aren't as good for barrels.
The indoor range I shoot at doesn't allow jacketed ammo.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:52 PM   #18
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The indoor range I shoot at doesn't allow jacketed ammo.
That is because when jacketed bullets hit solid things they don't shatter as well as lead does. Pieces of the jackets can hold large enough chunks of lead to be a real hazzard if they bounce back, also some steel target makers will not warranty their targets if used with FMJ bullets.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:58 PM   #19
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Has anyone ran into problems, or increased problems with lead bullets, specifically the lube and some lead gumming up the loaded chamber indicator so it will no longer return to the flat, unloaded position when the chamber is empty?
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:27 AM   #20
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Has anyone ran into problems, or increased problems with lead bullets, specifically the lube and some lead gumming up the loaded chamber indicator so it will no longer return to the flat, unloaded position when the chamber is empty?
After about 1000rds of lead my chamber indicator started sticking up too. I drove the pin out cleaned out the gunk (a mixture of bullet lube and powder residue) and put it back together. I suspect after another 1000rds or so I will have to do it again.

I have been shooting 200gr RNFP bullets from Penn Bullet. They have worked very well for me. I load them really light for use at USPSA pistol matches for production division.

They are also much cheaper. I can get FMJ 230gr for about $125/1000 from my club but I can order 2250 of the 200gr RNFP lead bullets from Penn and have them delivered for ~$170. Given the low velocity I am shooting them at lead is alot cheaper and works just as good.
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