XD-45 Ejector: Forging vs. Casting

[Wild Rice]

I recently bought a 2008 XD-45 4" Compact stainless/black two-tone and it shoots and functions great. However, after field stripping I noticed that the ejector was thinner and had more play than my other XD's (a 2007 XD-9 SC and a 2007 XD-45 5" Compact (traded in)). I called Springfield Armory Customer Service and ordered a replacement ejector to see if it would have less play. Part # XD4507, $7.00, the same replacement ejector for all XD-45 varients as far as I know. A different caliber XD would have a different ejector, by the way.

I installed the new replacement ejector myself tonight and it fits tighter (far less play, but not quite zero play) and ejects my snap caps normally. I was surprised when comparing the two ejectors. The 2008 original ejector appears to be a stamping (forged?) of thin metal plate, yet the replacement ejector (and 2007 ejectors) is a casting (metal injection molding?) of thicker metal. The stamped ejector measures 1.6 mm in width throughout, both at the base (between the pin holes) and at the tip (that strikes the casings). The stamped part looks fragile, especially at the very skinny tip. The cast part measures 1.9 mm at the base and a whopping 2.8 mm at the tip. The cast part is a much more substantial piece: thicker all over, more metal behind the sear pin hole, more metal contact with the ejector pin and sear pin (due to its thickness), and a tip that looks like it will go the distance.

I tried to photograph the two pieces side by side, but the matte black finish hid all the detail. If you field strip your gun, the cast ejector will measure > 2mm wide (right to left) at the front tip and have a blocky solid rear end. The stamped ejector will measure < 2 mm wide at the front tip and have an upside down "L" bend at the rear of the ejector when viewed from the rear.

In my opinion, the cast ejector is better and looks to be unbreakable. It also has less play. The stamped item looks more frail, although I am sure it would last a long time too. I am sticking with the cast replacement ejector. It makes me wonder if Springfield has started using thin stampings in other critical parts of their pistols.

[Ed Ely]

An interesting observation. Thanx
for the info.

Ed

[Wild Rice]

The bad news is that the loose thin cheesy stamped ejector came stock in my brand new 2008 XD-45 Compact. I hope this does not signal the use of cheap parts by Springfield Armory in the future. The other parts from what I can tell are very good and the gun is otherwise super solid in construction and performance. The good news is that replacement ejectors are available, inexpensive, and easily installed by the user. I can post the details of doing this minor gunsmithing procedure if you want. XD's aren't known for breaking ejectors, but it might be good to know in case you ever break an ejector. Having a spare and knowing how to install it could save you some major down time. Like I said, the new stamped ejectors are thin and fragile looking and have not been tested that long. The fact that it was loose could mean that recoil forces could make it snap sometime in the future. I am glad mine has been replaced.

[Ed Ely]

Since you are in the mood to offer
up such generosity, why not post
the details. They are sure to help
some frustrated soul on down the
line.

Ed

[t0066jh]

I had mine replaced last week when I had a trigger job done by Canyon Creek. It broke after 1 year and about 4K rounds thru the gun. I never knew exactly when it broke. I'm not much of a technical person and didn't realize it was partially broken off until it was pointed out to me.
Dum Newbie.

[Old School]

There are two version out at this time; Cast and Stamped. I believe the cast version is MIM, but I don't know for sure.

Usually, when an Ejector breaks, it is due to the magazine hitting it during reloads. Make sure you have enough clearance well the mag is pushed in all of the way.

OS

[happygunner]

Well I am glad I have and older XD-45 Service with the solid looking ejector. If this new cost saving parts idea is the way Springfield is moving I dought I will be buying any new XDs. Seems many firearm Mfg.s start out with a real quality built product and when sales get going they start looking for ways to cut cost and make more profit. Then it's down hill from there.

[TYFOON]

This will piss me off if SA thinks they will ride there new notoriety by cutting costs. I don't think that their demo is the one to save a few bucks by building with cheaper parts. I think that their demo is the one that want the highest quality possible but doesn't need or want a "Sig", "Colt", "Kimber", or other top shelf name brand that does the same job at twice the cost.

btw-
I heard Internet gossip that this is the road Bushmaster went down between 2004 and 2006 but it could be just gossip so don't take it to heart.

[Wild Rice]

I think it is a good idea to know how to replace the ejector yourself. If it ever breaks, you won't have to ship it off to Springfield Armory. Replacing it was easy to do and did not require any hand fitting or special skills, although I did employ a few tricks.

First, call Springfiled Armory (1-800-680-6866) and order an ejector (I think it is a good idea to have a spare on hand) and an optional ejector pin. For XD-45's the ejector is part # XD4507 and the ejector pin is part # XD0033. They may ask you for your gun's serial number, so have it ready. Different calibers use a different ejector.

After triple checking that the pistol is empty, fieldstrip and remove the barrel and slide assembly from the frame. All ejector work is done with the frame, so the barrel and recoil spring can remain in the slide assembly. The ejector is held in place with two pins: a thin ejector pin in front of a thicker sear pin. Note how one arm of the sear spring rests under (and presses against) the ejector pin.

Start removing the ejector pin by grasping it with needle nose pliers and shifting it towards the left side of the frame. You can put electrical tape or other soft material at the gripping surface of the pliers to prevent marring the ejector pin. If you do mar it badly (not likely) that is what the optional ejector pin is for. Move the ejector pin a little to the left and you will see that in normal position the pin merely butts up against the striker safety lever, but does not go through it. With the gap on the right end of the pin, you should be able to push it most of the way out with a small screw driver. With the pin half of the way out, you can slip the sear spring arm out from under the pin. Now push the pin most of the way out. For the last bit, grasp the exposed left end and pull it the rest of the way out. The ejector pin is a very small part, so don't drop it or lose it.

The main "trick" in this procedure is to only partially remove the sear pin. The sear pin holds many parts, some under spring tension, but it is not necessary to completely remove the sear pin. Using a drift tool, push the sear pin from left to right, just enough so that you can slide out the ejector. My sear pin could be pushed with the drift tool using only finger force and did not require a hammer to drift it. The ejector is to the left of the sear. Pushing the sear pin just 1/3 of the way to the right will free the ejector but keep the sear and other parts captive.

Remove and replace the ejector. Use a light and line up the sear pin hole in the new ejector with the sear pin. Push the sear pin back into position, from right to left. The sear pin must be slightly recessed in the frame rail holes on both sides, or else the sear pin could rub the slide. I used a tooth pick to feel for the recessed pin ends. Reinsert the ejector pin from the left side and push it half way. Remember to slip the arm of the sear spring under the ejector pin at this point. Then push the ejector pin all the way until the right end butts up against the striker safety lever and the left end is well recessed in the left frame rail pin hole.

Double check that the ejector is firmly in place, that the two pins are recessed in the pin holes, and that the sear spring arm is pressing against the underside of the ejector pin.

Reassemble the pistol and make sure it racks smoothly. I like to do the pencil test to check the firing mechanism on an empty gun. Then use snap caps to test normal cycling and ejection of rounds. Don't use live ammo to test cycling/ejection at home, it is too dangerous. Finally, go to the range and test fire, noting casing ejection patterns.

This procedure was easy to perform because the XD is very well designed. The key is to keep the sear captive on the sear pin throughout the procedure.

[happygunner]

A while back MacTeutates posted this really good how to do it XD video.

XD .45 videos