XD Talk

Fastsc92 · 02-24-2008, 04:29 PM

For those that want another method for overtravel.....I just got my part in on Sat. and I installed everything in about 20 min. I chose to drill into the frame with a #43 drill and let the set screw cuts its own threads into the plastic. This was the prefered method after talking to Daniel at Powder River.

**TMP** · 02-24-2008, 04:47 PM

Very impressive!!!!!!!!!! I'm sold.

Was that hard to drill yourself?????

ichy_trigger · 02-24-2008, 05:15 PM

One advantage of drilling the frame is that it will not weaken the trigger bar which could lead to failure. I DID have a trigger bar break after 5000 or so rounds. The draw back is that the plastic in the frame may not hold the threads over a really extended period of firing. BUT, even if the threads strip, it will not cause a 'fail to fire' situation. I have toyed with the idea of drilling the frame and may experiment with this. It may be best to slightly over drill the depth and then fill the hole with some epoxy and then put the screw in until you reach the desired setting. After the epoxy dries, it will should prevent thread failure.

Thanks for the pics.

Fastsc92 · 02-24-2008, 07:43 PM

drilling the frame was cake. The hard part was getting the drill in there, but it's do-able. I marked where I wanted to put it, then used a spring loaded punch to make a pilot hole, then very slowly drilled, making sure not to break through on the outside. He should give you two set screws, a long and a short. The short for the frame, and the longer screw if you decide to drill the bar.

The reason I went with this method was that I didn't want to break the trigger bar, or have the screw back out. Not to mention that it looked like it would be a pain to drill. The frame method was easy. Just dont tap any threads, let the screw itself make its own threads. This will ensure that its a tight fit. If i pull the trigger hard, the bar makes contact with the set screw and I can't see any deflection at all, and I have no reason to believe the threads would get loose or give way under normal conditions. I'm pulling the trigger MUCH harder than I would normally, without any issues. Hell even IF something happens, I can still always fill the .089" hole with a dab of epoxy and drill the bar out.

I havent had a chance to shoot it yet other than dry firing but almost all the take-up is gone. You need a little take-up for safety and there is prob. 1/8" of take-up, which is perfect. The trigger breaks like factory, and once it breaks, it immediately hits the overtrall stop, and the reset is short.

I can see where the Springer kit would be better as the take-up is removed by the modifed sear, and that the redesign of the sear makes for an even cleaner break.

One thing to note is that I'm running stock springs, and you can really notice the heavy pull now that all the pre-travel is gone. Time to invest in a $20 spring kit.

Oh and for those who are wondering, I dont see an issue of this being your carry gun. 90% of the pre-travel is gone, but to release the sear, you still need a good amount of trigger pressure. Remember, the sear is still factory, only the pre-travel and overtravel are reduced.

**JoshXD40** · 02-25-2008, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fastsc92

drilling the frame was cake. The hard part was getting the drill in there, but it's do-able. I marked where I wanted to put it, then used a spring loaded punch to make a pilot hole, then very slowly drilled, making sure not to break through on the outside. He should give you two set screws, a long and a short. The short for the frame, and the longer screw if you decide to drill the bar.

One thing to note is that I'm running stock springs, and you can really notice the heavy pull now that all the pre-travel is gone. Time to invest in a $20 spring kit.

Oh and for those who are wondering, I dont see an issue of this being your carry gun. 90% of the pre-travel is gone, but to release the sear, you still need a good amount of trigger pressure. Remember, the sear is still factory, only the pre-travel and overtravel are reduced.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of putting mine in the plastic as well and now I am sold. I already have the spring kit installed so it should make the gun perfect when I get all that installed. I was wondering about the carry part as well so glad you don't see any problem's with carring it...

aiformula · 02-25-2008, 04:26 PM

ichy,

you should be a hand model....

cool to see the diff side by side. I may have to get a set.

aiformula · 02-25-2008, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ichy_trigger

One advantage of drilling the frame is that it will not weaken the trigger bar which could lead to failure. I DID have a trigger bar break after 5000 or so rounds. The draw back is that the plastic in the frame may not hold the threads over a really extended period of firing. BUT, even if the threads strip, it will not cause a 'fail to fire' situation. I have toyed with the idea of drilling the frame and may experiment with this. It may be best to slightly over drill the depth and then fill the hole with some epoxy and then put the screw in until you reach the desired setting. After the epoxy dries, it will should prevent thread failure.

Thanks for the pics.

you guys ever hear of helicoils? small thd inserts are pretty short. probably work like a dream.

Fastsc92 · 02-25-2008, 05:05 PM

the issue with the heli coil is that there is minimal material anyways, so adding a helicoil would require drilling a much larger hole than .089"

ichy_trigger · 02-25-2008, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aiformula

you guys ever hear of helicoils? small thd inserts are pretty short. probably work like a dream.

I never cared for them if i didnt need one. As far as the screw backing out of a trigger bar, I have probably 20,000 rounds through 2 XD's that I drilled and never had a screw move. You set it where it needs to be and then use loctite. You can mod your springs yourself if you know how but for $20.00 springs are cheap. If your sear spring gets too light and you shoot +P ammo, your slide will travel too fast to let the sear reset. Ask me how I know...lol. Ive spent alot of time moding XD's on my own and toying around. Since my trigger bars are all drilled, Ill just leave them alone.

**powder river** · 02-28-2008, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fastsc92

what is the benefit of this over a springer kit? Are the two kits compatable?

The main benefit of the powder river precision kit is the price. $32.25
I redesign the striker safety lever because it was the simplest solution for the biggest complaints about the trigger on the XD's. The take up, over travel and the reset.

No the two kits are not compatible.