Springer AND PRP ?

[QuickdraW_723]

really, just a very curious thought, just to satisfy every bit of doubt of DIY'ers out here, has anyone ever tried mix and matching both kits? not basically all the parts, i do love the make and improvement of the springer bar, i also like the way PRP did their trigger, they also have a different impression on the sear, to those who actually has those kits on their xd-xdm's. please shed light into this long lingering question.

[Kaboom]

BTW I tested the first PRP sear and safety cam while it was in pre-production years ago, wrote up a review here on XDT, this ain't my first rodeo.

[shineynitelite]

Originally Posted by Kaboom

BTW I tested the first PRP sear and safety cam while it was in pre-production years ago, wrote up a review here on XDT, this ain't my first rodeo.

Good for you, order up the trigger bar and write another review!!

[Kaboom]

Well I got the UMT kit installed tonight and grrrr, can't say I'm impressed, not $130.00 worth impressed anyway. It all functions and it IS a bit better than stock but the overtravel adjustment ( grinding off plastic behind the trigger ) is a bit bogus and once you grind it off you can't put it back. I'm at a dissadvantage compared to some because I have a stock XD-45 Compact to compare it to as well as the old original PRP trigger mod in my XD-9 Service which consisted of a new safety lever and drilling and tapping the trigger bar to produce an internal overtravel adjustment. The old version is miles better, it's firmer and crisper than the current version. I wonder what the difference in the levers is? I can see that I have some overlap between the sear and the striker even with the slide and frame pulled away from each other so I might reduce the sear a bit to decrease the creep.
Oh well.

[SFAnon]

Originally Posted by Kaboom

once you grind it off you can't put it back.

Truth. They've got replacement overtravel stop triggers pretty cheap.

Just a note as well regarding the OT stop grinding. I did take a good bit of material off the stop prior to installing the trigger (for like the 12th time), but at this point, the sear wasn't breaking, I then cut a long narrow strip of my wet sand paper, placed it between the triggerguard and the stop, and held the trigger back while I pulled it out. I did this for quite a while, but the end result is that it stops right when it breaks and the stop is perfectly married to the frame with no highs or lows to alter the characteristics.

Originally Posted by Kaboom

...I might reduce the sear a bit to decrease the creep.

Will this not simply provide you with more overtravel?

Originally Posted by Kaboom

...consisted of a new safety lever and drilling and tapping the trigger bar to produce an internal overtravel adjustment. The old version is miles better, it's firmer and crisper than the current version.

Unless I am mistaken, I believe that PRP still has this kit, it's just not the UMT kit. IMHO, I can't imagine anything further that my UMT kit could be doing to improve the break, reset, or overtravel on my XDM. Unless they could all be the same, in which case I would be running full unattended auto...

[Kaboom]

Originally Posted by SFAnon

Truth. They've got replacement overtravel stop triggers pretty cheap.

Just a note as well regarding the OT stop grinding. I did take a good bit of material off the stop prior to installing the trigger (for like the 12th time), but at this point, the sear wasn't breaking, I then cut a long narrow strip of my wet sand paper, placed it between the triggerguard and the stop, and held the trigger back while I pulled it out. I did this for quite a while, but the end result is that it stops right when it breaks and the stop is perfectly married to the frame with no highs or lows to alter the characteristics.



Will this not simply provide you with more overtravel?



Unless I am mistaken, I believe that PRP still has this kit, it's just not the UMT kit. IMHO, I can't imagine anything further that my UMT kit could be doing to improve the break, reset, or overtravel on my XDM. Unless they could all be the same, in which case I would be running full unattended auto...

The strip of sandpaper ( he used crocus cloth ) is what Dan uses in his video.

I won't mind a bit more overtravel ( since that happens AFTER the break ) if I can cut the creep in half.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaboom
...consisted of a new safety lever and drilling and tapping the trigger bar to produce an internal overtravel adjustment. The old version is miles better, it's firmer and crisper than the current version.

Unless I am mistaken, I believe that PRP still has this kit, it's just not the UMT kit. IMHO, I can't imagine anything further that my UMT kit could be doing to improve the break, reset, or overtravel on my XDM. Unless they could all be the same, in which case I would be running full unattended auto...

Just revisited the PRP site and I didn't see one of those kits.
I think I still have the drill bit and tap he sent me, just need to match the set-screw.

[SFAnon]

Originally Posted by Kaboom

The strip of sandpaper ( he used crocus cloth ) is what Dan uses in his video.

I won't mind a bit more overtravel ( since that happens AFTER the break ) if I can cut the creep in half.

I hear ya on the creep. I surface polished the sear and the striker where it meets, and although the creep is there, it's a short smooth runup to the break on my 45. I've got the PRP titanium striker indicator installed so my striker spring is just slightly less than the norm. Be sure to check that your striker is not binding on any oils or debris in the channel as that would also cause rough creep. I may look at the PRP polished striker at some point just to compare and have a spare on hand, but at this point, I certainly don't feel the need to change anything on the setup.

I hope you are able to get what you intended out of that fine weapon!

And might I say that's an impressive collection that you've got.

[Kaboom]

Originally Posted by SFAnon

I hear ya on the creep. I surface polished the sear and the striker where it meets, and although the creep is there, it's a short smooth runup to the break on my 45. I've got the PRP titanium striker indicator installed so my striker spring is just slightly less than the norm. Be sure to check that your striker is not binding on any oils or debris in the channel as that would also cause rough creep. I may look at the PRP polished striker at some point just to compare and have a spare on hand, but at this point, I certainly don't feel the need to change anything on the setup.

I hope you are able to get what you intended out of that fine weapon!

And might I say that's an impressive collection that you've got.

After I shoot it tomorrow I'll pull the striker and polish it up then hit it with some dry ceramic "lube", did that with the old 9mm years ago and haven't touched it since, it had a surprising amount of rough edges.

[Kaboom]

Originally Posted by SFAnon

And might I say that's an impressive collection that you've got.

Meh, the special ones are the FAL, the AK, the 10mmCBOB and now the CZ SP01 thanks to a Cajun Gun Works hammer/sear kit. The Bersa-45 is now an impressive piece for the money too.
Thanks

[john_bud]

Originally Posted by Kaboom

After I shoot it tomorrow I'll pull the striker and polish it up then hit it with some dry ceramic "lube", did that with the old 9mm years ago and haven't touched it since, it had a surprising amount of rough edges.

Pull the striker too. I had a pretty big booger (machining swarf not broken clear) that was digging into the striker. Polishing the channel, the striker, sear and trigger parts made a huge improvement in feel.