Best Cleaner Oil?

[rimfire,22]

Originally Posted by Tactic XD

Hey everyone. I'm a NooB to the site and have browsed around looking for the answer to my question but haven't found it yet. I'm looking for cleaner/oil that will treat my new XD-40 the best. I've been reading about these guns, and I've seen a couple complaints of these guns rusting due to the wrong kind of oil. What do I use? What do I NOT use? Should I keep it in the foam case that it came in?

Thanks!

Tactic XD,

I've used Breakfree for years and it's my main cleaner lube dispite what others have said. Don't get too caught up in the lubricant issue. They all make many claims as being better than the rest. Maybe it is but you'll wind up with a shelve of oil that'll last you for a long time just like myself. Pick the oil of your choice and stick with it.

rimfire,22

[Hwkeye]

I have been using Hopes9, but lately at work, I have been using Breakfree on my duty weapon. I like it better, there is practically no smell to it either, seems to clean just as good! for lube, I have been using Kleanbore lube/cleaner... but I am starting to think that Breakfree will do just as good. I have also found, for those tricky parts to get to, Kleanbore makes a spray degreaser that will not collect gunk, if you spray it inside the gun and tip it upsideown on a rag, you will see all sorts of crap come out! smells alot, but it does its job and evaporates so no gunk collection!!

[Frostyeyes]

Mister 40: No in your case i think your on the right track, I also shoot a lot i work afternoons and its not unusual for me to sneak off to the range 2 or 3 times a week for 1/2 hour or so, in between cleanings i remove the slide and barrel and wipe down with some oil cloths to prevent rust and for long storage i oil pretty heavy and put the weapon in a silicon gun sock which can be purchased at most large gun stores ( Cabelas, Gander Mtg. etc ) they are cheap 5 or 6 bucks and put them in the safe which has a Golden Rod installed.

[para_org]

I would suggest you NOT use a petroleum based oil like breakfree. Oils will collect dirt which can lead to a malfunction. This was a BIG problem for the military armorers during the first "Iraq war".

I also would not suggest using anything synthetic that uses either a teflon, graphite, silicon, or similar type of lubricant. The particles will build up over time as they can be very hard to remove. This will lead to jamming.

That doesn't leave a lot of choices. -> I started using PROLIX over 20 years ago when I was gunsmithing. I liked it so much that two years ago I became the New Mexico distributor. It comes with a satisfaction guarantee.

For more info, google for "prolix lubricant".

[Globeguy]

Originally Posted by BWH

This means do not store it in the manufacturer's pistol case if that case uses foam as cushioning. The foam actually absorbs moisture from the atomsphere and will cause rust.

So storing my gun in an XD gear package pistol case is a bad idea?? Or are you talking about other manufacturer's cases?

[para_org]

After treating with PROLIX I store my guns in their synthetic (kylex) holster OR a non-synthetic zippered gun case OR just wrapped in a CLEAN cotton towel.

[rimfire,22]

Originally Posted by para_org

After treating with PROLIX I store my guns in their synthetic (kylex) holster OR a non-synthetic zippered gun case OR just wrapped in a CLEAN cotton towel.

para_org,

PROLIX is a fantastic cleaning material! I suggest anyone try this product. I buy by the gallon and it's worked very well for me. No bad smell, non toxic and is bio degradeable for safety. Still use Breakfree for my lube though. I also use MP-Pro 7 for cleaning my barrels.

rimfire,22

[para_org]

I am thrilled you like how it cleans. At the range today another XD .45 jammed up on it's user. The cause was an incredible amount of dirt.

Prolix took care of it nicely. And the owner was impressed BOTH how easily it cleaned up AND at how smooth the gun cycled after we wiped off the excess Prolix; because the gun remains lubed after cleaning with the special dry lubricant that is part of the Prolix CLP product. -> Further it does not flash off the inside of the barrel and cannot build up and cause jamming or turn rancid from age.

More to the point, we then lubed the rails and barrel hood with Prolix X-T Lube. Just 6 drops total. He was suitably impressed that the gun was even better lubed than just with the Prolix CLP product.

Just to cement things further and since my XD .45's barrel has been "broken in" (conditioned) with a few firing/cleaning cycles, they watched me clean the barrel in 30 seconds flat with just two Prolix soaked passes with a bore snake. I had been shooting lead !!

The range guys were watching and they all asked for samples when they saw how well it lubed and cleaned.

One of the range guys asked if you needed to be careful to clean it off afterwards. An understandable question considering the way other gun care products work. They were suitably impressed when I told them you cannopt misapply it, and you can leave it on as long as you like as either the liquid or the resulting dry lubricant. You can even soak a gun by immersion for as long as a year without a problem. (And the longer its soaks the better the cleaning action.)

Anyways.....I obviously liked the product enough when I was gunsmithing to continue to use for the past 20 plus years. I became the New Mexico distributor a couple of years ago.

P. S. .... For fun, the next time you want to remove rust from a gun, just take a peice of rough cloth soaked in Prolix and rub. To speed up the process you can also card the rust spot with soaked stell wool if it the rust spot is on a blued gun.

[Talon]

Originally Posted by Tactic XD

Hey everyone. I'm a NooB to the site and have browsed around looking for the answer to my question but haven't found it yet. I'm looking for cleaner/oil that will treat my new XD-40 the best. I've been reading about these guns, and I've seen a couple complaints of these guns rusting due to the wrong kind of oil. What do I use? What do I NOT use? Should I keep it in the foam case that it came in?

Thanks!

Hello Tac...

FWIW,

I echo KRACKELS recogmendation for Eezox it is great product. Here;s information for you to read.

www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

I used Militec1 for a very long time and was very happy with it Then a friend recogmended Eezoxx. I have had zero issues with it.

Here is a article on a corrosion test done with several of the recogmendations given here.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Peace
Steel Talon

[Tempest]

I also would not suggest using anything synthetic that uses either a teflon, graphite, silicon, or similar type of lubricant. The particles will build up over time as they can be very hard to remove. This will lead to jamming.

Silicone is a fluid and not a particle, and is also a poor lube for metal. Teflon is plastic molecules that are <3 microns in size (the good stuff is <1 micron). They do not stick to metal, and will not build up. Graphite molecules are similar in size, and again, will not be a problem unless one dumps a whole jar of the stuff in the gun. It is black, and makes a mess when cleaning though. Moly is used in engines and difs on cars so I really don't think "build up" is a problem there either. Makes a mess like graphite.

What is your definition of synthetic?
Can you please post or provide an MSDS for your product? One is not listed on the site.

http://www.prolixlubricant.com/

Penetration is made possible by its thin formulation (8.2 cps). Then by the chemical action, it turns into a heavier (68cST 40C) DRY, enduring and long lasting protective coating.

So in other words, the solvent flashes off into the air and the base oil remains behind. This is how most CLP's work. What is the VOC and volatile content of the product?

Why do they use 2 different units for viscosity on their site: cps and cSt? cSt is the standard.

What is a non-agueous cleaning agent?

We do recomment that you test on plastics, in a small area (on the back side). If no adverse action is noticed, you may continue with complete confidence.

This stuff is pretty strong if it will eat plastic.

Since it is bio-degradable, it is most likely ester based. What type of esters are in the product?