Duracoat anyone?

[Collander]

please post pics after you shoot a few hundered rounds, i'm curious to see how it holds up.

[alhersch]

I need to correct myself, on the brand we used. It's called KG Gun-Kote

This is from the website:

http://www.kgcoatings.com/gunkote.html

Lets see if this work, this is off the manufactures website
APPLICATION: Pretreatment:
Alloy Steel: Stainless Steel: Sandblast (all sandblasting should be done using aluminum oxide 120 mesh at 50 to 70 pounds of pressure.) Sandblast and phosphate or sandblast only. Aluminum: Alodine or anodize if possible, if not possible use lighter pressure sandblast. Nickel Or Chrome Plating: Sandblast (If plating peels it is bad plating.) Parts are first stripped and cleaned of any oil or grease (use KG-3 Solvent Degreaser). After grit blasting repeat cleaning to remove all blasting residue that may have been trapped. Next apply K-Phos pretreatment following instructions on the product.
Note: Never use glass bead for blasting.
Preheat parts to be coated to about 100 to 120 degrees F. (This reduces the risk of runs and opens pores). Note: If spraying flat colors preheat to about 140 to 150 and spray coating a little heavier. When handling parts, use a pair of clean white gloves to insure you do not leave any finger prints, which will affect the bonding of the material to the metal. Using a good quality air gun or airbrush, spray in light fog passes, 8 to 10 inches away from the part you are coating. Spray from four to five different directions to assure complete coverage. The ideal coating thickness is .0003”, which should not cause problems to close tolerance fits. Coating can be sprayed heavier if desired on external parts where tolerances are not an issue. A heavier coating will give more wear life. If coating is not to your satisfaction at this time coating can be removed with Acetone, or MEK. To re-coat simply repeat the process.
After allowing the coating to dry, place/hang the part from a tray in an air circulating oven and bake for at least 1 hour at 300 to 325 degrees F. Bake time starts when parts reach the required temperature.
GUN KOTE: If you bake Gun Kote longer or at higher temperatures (Over 345F) coating will become slightly harder and will have slight increase in wear life. However, a change in color will occur especially on colors such as Grey and OD green. If this occurs you only need to recoat with a light color coat and re-bake.
Once the coating is cured the only way to remove it is by sandblast.
The following Instructions Sheet should be viewed as a guideline. Customers often have their "preferred method" of pretreatment and/or spray technique. In all cases if these instructions are generally followed Gun Kote should provide an outstanding coating. If there are any questions please contact us for detail.
For further information please contact us at (800) 348-9558



I'll be back on later to answer any of the other questions,

Gotta go,

Al

[techmike]

Originally Posted by Volman

That looks great, but I've kind of been turned off on DuraCoat after hearing that it's not as durable as the name would suggest. It does look really good though.

The key to dura coat is surface prep. I've done several 1911's with it. I like to apply it over park. Good stuff, just follow the directions.

[Ringostar]

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Lets see if this picture works. Some duracoat work that I had done. And YES the prep work of the pieces is very important.

[ohioshooter]

I have 3 OD green XD's...9, .357 sig, and .40...that would look sweet on my guns