FNH PS90 Bullpup Carbine - Page 3 - XDTalk Forums - Your HS2000/SA-XD Information Source!

xdfan80 · 05-18-2008, 06:48 AM

Nice. I just ordered a catalog after seeing those pics.

shipwreck · 05-18-2008, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shipwreck

I love my PS90!

Be sure to come check out the Fn Forum to find out more about these PS90s

I have an extra PS90 double rail mount with rails if anyone wants to purchase it. PM me.

I was like all the rest - ran out and got a laser on 1 side, and a flashlight on the other. BUt when carrying the PS90 with a sling, you DON'T want anything on the inside rail. It gets uncomfortable.

This mount allows you to have your two items mounted on the outside side of the PS90...

Wild Rice · 05-18-2008, 02:20 PM

For my second session I relegated the $50 NcSTAR Holo sight to my GSG-5 22LR and installed a $140 NcSTAR 2-7x32 "P4 Sniper" tube scope with lighted reticle. It has a variable intensity lighted cross hair ranging reticle that can be turned green or red. No power is a crisp conventional black cross hair ranging reticle, so no back up sight is needed. It has a quick release attachment that does not change zero. I know it is cheap, but it was very well featured.

I removed the shim as I was advised not to shim the normal play between the barrel/shroud and receiver. I shot 100 rounds of the faster hollow point ammo. Sighting in was easy (no tools). I made a impromptu rest at the indoor range (no sand bags) and shot at 25 yards at 4x power. The magnification is very nice as my focus is not what it used to be. Another bonus is that I can see the group forming through the magnified scope without having to pull back the target paper.

There is a dial setting on the scope for optimized for .223 at 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500 yards. I set the dial to 100 and zeroed at 25 yards. The bullet will hit low at 10 yards due to the scope barrel offset, hit high at 50 yards and should hit close to zero again at 100 yards. For longer distances I can dial the range.

I shot several clover leaf one hole 3 shot groups, dead center on the bull's eye which is a world of difference from my first session. So it was not the PS90 that was inaccurate, it was the poorly set up Holo sight.

At one point I used the quick release and moved the scope back one notch on the rail for better eye relief. The gun still shot at exact zero. that means I can remove the scope (quick release, without tools) and replace it at will with no need to re-zero.

GlockConvert · 05-18-2008, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carnivorous

Is there that much of a difference in power/lethality between the 5.7 and the .223 / 5.56?

...and I wonder if it would be practical, at the range, to put some sort of bag below the mag well on the FN conversion... you'd capture all of your brass easily for reloads...

Its significantly less lethal then 223. Not only that, the serious rounds (capable of penetrating light body armor...) is restricted to gov/le use. Someone who knows more about it then me will be along... I see it as a subgun shooting the restricted round at high cyclic rates, but I'm not sure I see it as a full size rifle.

Wild Rice · 05-27-2008, 06:02 PM

Here is a photo of my PS90 Triple Rail with my cheap but effective NcSTAR 2-7X32 "P4 Sniper" scope with lighted reticle on the top rail, LaserMax (red) on the left side rail, and Moerse Lekker barrel shroud (which I just received and installed today).

The LaserMax is not very tall and I wanted so much to fit it under the objective end of the scope on the top rail, but it was just a little too tall. The LaserMax actually works pretty well on the left side rail as I can reach the "on" switch with my off hand thumb. The scope is sighted in for 25 yards, but I have not test fired or readjusted for zero since adding the shroud or laser (I doubt the bullet impact is going to change), but I did line up the Laser with the scope's reticle. To lessen the parallax problem of having a side mounted laser, I have the laser point 3/4" to the left of the crosshair center at 25 yards. I can illuminate the scope reticle with either red or green. With the red laser and the green reticle in high contrast, it is Santa's worst nightmare.

The barrel shroud is a quality item and worth the price, but I have yet to test fire. It fits well and mounts solidly. It comes supplied with two brass mounting screws. The soft brass is designed to secure the shroud once with fiirm torque and the other screw is for a spare. At first I thought it was not tightening, until I remembered that the barrel has normal rotatory play with the receiver. The brass attaching screw is at the receiver end of the shroud. I think the muzzle end of the shroud is designed to "float" on the flash suppressor. The shroud gives the front end much better proportions.

shipwreck · 05-27-2008, 08:51 PM

U really need to sight the gun in at 50 yards. That's the better zero distance. It covers you better for up close all the way out to 100 yards. U will be WAY off at further distances with a 25 yard zero.

At 25 yards, I am just 2 inches low. That's about the same as an AR zeroed at 50 yards (when hitting something at 25 yards).

And, with my EOtech - I know that my round will hit at the very bottom point of the Eotech reticle at 7 yards. I used to have a laser zeroed at 7 yards on my PS90 - so I know how to use my Eotech reticle at different distances - something much harder to do when using a straight red dot.

Wild Rice · 05-28-2008, 07:14 AM

I am currently doing ALL of my shooting at a local indoor range where the max distance is 25 yards. I like having the bullets hit where I aim. If I do find an outdoor shooting location, I suppose I could count clicks to lower the POI to 2" low at 25 yards. Now that I have the laser, I could even get pretty close by keeping the laser zeroed at 25 yards (it is a close range aiming device) and set the scope reticle 2" higher and count clicks. When I need to switch back and forth, I can use the laser as reference. I mainly shoot the faster SS195LF round. The center of the objective lens on my triple rail mounted scope is 4-1/8" above the bore axis which is even higher than in the ballistics chart where it looks to be about 3-3/4". A 100 yard zero would be a pretty good ground hog shooting distance. The round should be effective on varmints. The 2-7X scope, flat trajectory, and accuracy should enable me to make hits that far.

But like I said, I am probably confined to shooting at the indoor range.

XDman1000 · 05-28-2008, 11:19 AM

I have a great time shooting my FNs when I'm not fighting my wife and 8 year old son at the range for them.

The PS90 is his favorite

Wild Rice · 05-28-2008, 11:28 AM

Okay, I test fired with the new laser and new barrel shroud. The shroud is light weight aluminum, but it does effect the barrel dynamics slightly. I had to rezero, but only a very small amount. The Lasermax, having a plastic body and mount, is not as rigidly fixed as the scope. But after settling in, it held it's adjustment fairly well. The laser is a short range aiming device, and for that purpose it works very well. It does wash out a bit in bright sun light beyond 50 yards. Indoors it is very bright and clearly visible. There is a green LaserMax for 3 times the price that supposedly performs better outdoors at distance.

I sighted in the scope for zero at 25 yards and set the LaserMax at the same elevation and 3/4" to the left to reduce the parallax effect, since the laser is mounted on the left 1" lateral to the bore axis. If I lined up the laser to be dead on at 25 yards, it would point well off to the right at 100 yards.

Using the laser as a 25 yard elevation reference, I calculated that 25 clockwise "down" clicks would shift the POI down 2" at 25 yards for theoretical zero at 100 yards. The laser being zeroed for elevation at 25 yards will tell me whether I am set for 25 or 100 yards.

Wild Rice · 05-28-2008, 11:35 AM

Your son has very good form, leaning into it and crouched down.

Does the FS2000 have a gas piston system or is it more like a direct gas system like the AR-15? The FNH USA catalog says the FS2000 is gas operated, but owners say the inside stays very clean, like a gas piston rifle. How do you like the trigger on the FS2000?

05-18-2008, 06:48 AM	#21
xdfan80 XDTalk 2K Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,812	Nice. I just ordered a catalog after seeing those pics. __________________ Ruger Sp-101 .357 magnum SA XD Tactical .45 acp Mossberg 500 12 gauge pump Marlin 25N bolt action .22 rifle

05-18-2008, 02:20 PM	#23
Wild Rice XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 188	For my second session I relegated the $50 NcSTAR Holo sight to my GSG-5 22LR and installed a $140 NcSTAR 2-7x32 "P4 Sniper" tube scope with lighted reticle. It has a variable intensity lighted cross hair ranging reticle that can be turned green or red. No power is a crisp conventional black cross hair ranging reticle, so no back up sight is needed. It has a quick release attachment that does not change zero. I know it is cheap, but it was very well featured. I removed the shim as I was advised not to shim the normal play between the barrel/shroud and receiver. I shot 100 rounds of the faster hollow point ammo. Sighting in was easy (no tools). I made a impromptu rest at the indoor range (no sand bags) and shot at 25 yards at 4x power. The magnification is very nice as my focus is not what it used to be. Another bonus is that I can see the group forming through the magnified scope without having to pull back the target paper. There is a dial setting on the scope for optimized for .223 at 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500 yards. I set the dial to 100 and zeroed at 25 yards. The bullet will hit low at 10 yards due to the scope barrel offset, hit high at 50 yards and should hit close to zero again at 100 yards. For longer distances I can dial the range. I shot several clover leaf one hole 3 shot groups, dead center on the bull's eye which is a world of difference from my first session. So it was not the PS90 that was inaccurate, it was the poorly set up Holo sight. At one point I used the quick release and moved the scope back one notch on the rail for better eye relief. The gun still shot at exact zero. that means I can remove the scope (quick release, without tools) and replace it at will with no need to re-zero. Last edited by Wild Rice; 05-27-2008 at 06:14 PM.

05-27-2008, 08:51 PM	#26
shipwreck XDTalk 1K Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 1,324	U really need to sight the gun in at 50 yards. That's the better zero distance. It covers you better for up close all the way out to 100 yards. U will be WAY off at further distances with a 25 yard zero. At 25 yards, I am just 2 inches low. That's about the same as an AR zeroed at 50 yards (when hitting something at 25 yards). And, with my EOtech - I know that my round will hit at the very bottom point of the Eotech reticle at 7 yards. I used to have a laser zeroed at 7 yards on my PS90 - so I know how to use my Eotech reticle at different distances - something much harder to do when using a straight red dot. __________________ - Visit: http://www.fnforum.net The ULTIMATE FN site!

05-28-2008, 11:19 AM	#28
XDman1000 XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Eastern USA Posts: 405	I have a great time shooting my FNs when I'm not fighting my wife and 8 year old son at the range for them. The PS90 is his favorite __________________ Mike XD-40 4\" Stainless and a few others

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05-27-2008, 06:02 PM	#25
Wild Rice XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 188	Here is a photo of my PS90 Triple Rail with my cheap but effective NcSTAR 2-7X32 "P4 Sniper" scope with lighted reticle on the top rail, LaserMax (red) on the left side rail, and Moerse Lekker barrel shroud (which I just received and installed today). The LaserMax is not very tall and I wanted so much to fit it under the objective end of the scope on the top rail, but it was just a little too tall. The LaserMax actually works pretty well on the left side rail as I can reach the "on" switch with my off hand thumb. The scope is sighted in for 25 yards, but I have not test fired or readjusted for zero since adding the shroud or laser (I doubt the bullet impact is going to change), but I did line up the Laser with the scope's reticle. To lessen the parallax problem of having a side mounted laser, I have the laser point 3/4" to the left of the crosshair center at 25 yards. I can illuminate the scope reticle with either red or green. With the red laser and the green reticle in high contrast, it is Santa's worst nightmare. The barrel shroud is a quality item and worth the price, but I have yet to test fire. It fits well and mounts solidly. It comes supplied with two brass mounting screws. The soft brass is designed to secure the shroud once with fiirm torque and the other screw is for a spare. At first I thought it was not tightening, until I remembered that the barrel has normal rotatory play with the receiver. The brass attaching screw is at the receiver end of the shroud. I think the muzzle end of the shroud is designed to "float" on the flash suppressor. The shroud gives the front end much better proportions.

05-28-2008, 07:14 AM	#27
Wild Rice XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 188	I am currently doing ALL of my shooting at a local indoor range where the max distance is 25 yards. I like having the bullets hit where I aim. If I do find an outdoor shooting location, I suppose I could count clicks to lower the POI to 2" low at 25 yards. Now that I have the laser, I could even get pretty close by keeping the laser zeroed at 25 yards (it is a close range aiming device) and set the scope reticle 2" higher and count clicks. When I need to switch back and forth, I can use the laser as reference. I mainly shoot the faster SS195LF round. The center of the objective lens on my triple rail mounted scope is 4-1/8" above the bore axis which is even higher than in the ballistics chart where it looks to be about 3-3/4". A 100 yard zero would be a pretty good ground hog shooting distance. The round should be effective on varmints. The 2-7X scope, flat trajectory, and accuracy should enable me to make hits that far. But like I said, I am probably confined to shooting at the indoor range.

05-28-2008, 11:28 AM	#29
Wild Rice XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 188	Okay, I test fired with the new laser and new barrel shroud. The shroud is light weight aluminum, but it does effect the barrel dynamics slightly. I had to rezero, but only a very small amount. The Lasermax, having a plastic body and mount, is not as rigidly fixed as the scope. But after settling in, it held it's adjustment fairly well. The laser is a short range aiming device, and for that purpose it works very well. It does wash out a bit in bright sun light beyond 50 yards. Indoors it is very bright and clearly visible. There is a green LaserMax for 3 times the price that supposedly performs better outdoors at distance. I sighted in the scope for zero at 25 yards and set the LaserMax at the same elevation and 3/4" to the left to reduce the parallax effect, since the laser is mounted on the left 1" lateral to the bore axis. If I lined up the laser to be dead on at 25 yards, it would point well off to the right at 100 yards. Using the laser as a 25 yard elevation reference, I calculated that 25 clockwise "down" clicks would shift the POI down 2" at 25 yards for theoretical zero at 100 yards. The laser being zeroed for elevation at 25 yards will tell me whether I am set for 25 or 100 yards.

05-28-2008, 11:35 AM	#30
Wild Rice XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 188	Your son has very good form, leaning into it and crouched down. Does the FS2000 have a gas piston system or is it more like a direct gas system like the AR-15? The FNH USA catalog says the FS2000 is gas operated, but owners say the inside stays very clean, like a gas piston rifle. How do you like the trigger on the FS2000?