What to look for in a used revolver?

[Clobbersaurus]

Originally Posted by Brickboy240

I have an older S&W Mod. 19 357 in 4" trim that is a great shooter. Hard to go wrong with a 4" K-frame Smith...they're very good guns. The 586/686 Smiths are also good guns, but a tad on the heavy side. The 38 and 357 mid-sized revolvers are probably some of the finest things S&W ever made...or ever will.

The Ruger GP 100 is a good revolver but not as smooth of an action as the K-frame Smiths.

The Colt Python is awesome, but they are known to come out of time easliy and who can afford one?

- Brickboy240

The shop near me has a lot of used S&W revolvers. Ill have to take a closer look at them. Weight will be somewhat of an issue as my wife will be using it more than my semiautos when she gets her license. Its also why I want the .357 so we can shoot .38s out of it. Thanks man.

[bigun]

Originally Posted by Clobbersaurus

The shop near me has a lot of used S&W revolvers. Ill have to take a closer look at them. Weight will be somewhat of an issue as my wife will be using it more than my semiautos when she gets her license. Its also why I want the .357 so we can shoot .38s out of it. Thanks man.

Sounds like a good canidate for a Model 10 or 15 or 66. I tend to stay away from old Rossi's, Taurus made before 1986 or Llama revolvers.

[PTCgunsmith]

Originally Posted by Clobbersaurus

I was looking at some used revolvers in my area. Mainly .357s. Can someone tell me what I should look for (good and bad). I heard some people say to make sure the cylinder is tight. Does that mean just make sure there is no "roll" to it when its in the closed position and cocked? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Clobber

every revolver is different. colts have their areas to look for problems as well as smiths and rugers have theirs. i would suggest first deciding what you want to buy. then ask a gunsmith about the typical issues with that model. the cylinder should be locked when the gun is cocked. open the cylinder and check for yolk and cylinder endshake. rugers and smiths should ring the cylinders. a colt should not. these are a few basics if you find a model you like you can go ahead and PM me and i'll tell you specificly what to look for.

[PTCgunsmith]

[Brickboy240]

Pretty...but for the same price you can buy a nice, used Smith 19 or 686 and a reloading machine!

LOL

- Brickboy240

[invssgt]

Here's a Revolver Buyer's Checklist which is a compilation of some things to look at when buying any revolver-new or used.. I have used it a long time and it has saved me some grief.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by Clobbersaurus

I was looking at some used revolvers in my area. Mainly .357s. Can someone tell me what I should look for

The letters "SW" on the side plate.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by Clobbersaurus

I was looking at some used revolvers in my area. Mainly .357s. Can someone tell me what I should look for (good and bad). I heard some people say to make sure the cylinder is tight. Does that mean just make sure there is no "roll" to it when its in the closed position and cocked? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Clobber

At minimum, check:

1) End shake

2) Head space

3) Lock up

4) barrel/cylinder gap

[retired]

Sounds like a good canidate for a Model 10 or 15 or 66.

Don't know anything about the Model 10, but I have the last two. My Model 15 (.3 was used when it was issued to me in 1976 when I hired on. Very smooth trigger and very accurate. Bought it for $150 in 1990 when we switched over to the 92f. Still shoot it when I go to the range and it still performs flawlessly.

Bought my Model 66 2 1/2" in 1978 for $170. SS .357 that also shoot .38. As accurate as my 4" Model 15, but the trigger is much tougher. Never used it on duty because when I made DB, we had gone to the Beretta. Still shoot it at the range also.

Don't think they make it anymore, nor the 15. Never ever had trouble with either.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by Clobbersaurus

I was looking at some used revolvers in my area. Mainly .357s. Can someone tell me what I should look for (good and bad). I heard some people say to make sure the cylinder is tight. Does that mean just make sure there is no "roll" to it when its in the closed position and cocked? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Clobber

There is a long list of things you have to check, my aged brain will throw out the ones I remember:

cylinder end shake
cyinder lockup play
cylinder/breech plate (headspace) gap
SA and DA carry up
cylinder aligment (requires a range rod)
DA hammer lift continuity
cylinder/barrel gap

I am basically a qualified gunsmith on SW revos, and I have still gotten a bad used one even though I know how to check them.

Anytime I look at a used gun, I always wonder what's wrong with it: people don't sell their good guns, they always sell their clunkers first.