Seriously bud, don't waste your time with any
duraCrap product. I've used everything out there and done it as a prosperous side job for many years now. Duracoat is the Ford Pinto of firearm coatings. Seriously, it's the bottom of the barrel.
For ease of use and durability, go with Norrell Moly Resin. no mixing, just shake it up, spray through an airbrush, and put in the oven for an hour. 5 times easier, 10 times more durable than DuraCrap. It's even cheaper, they offer free shipping.
MolyResin also comes in an Air Coat if you have something you can't bake, but honestly it's not as durable as the bake on product.
CeraKote is also a great product, but it's also bake on, you have to mix it, and it's more expensive. KG GunKote is also good, better than DC by far, but still not the best.
I have personal and customer photo's all over this web site of the before and after. Nothing is "tough as nails" as DuraJunk claims to be, but there are no complaints when using Moly Resin or CeraKote.
I just finished a Sig P6 in all Moly black. I'll see if I can't get some pics of it up since it's basically the handgun you're looking to refinish. They're on my camera, I just need to load them onto PhotoBucket.
I'm just trying to save you some headaches, prevent you from wasting your time, and give you the best outcome for your project. No hating my post
Here's a famous internet durajunk for you
[quote=FCOD;2009148]Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm up against. Funny thing is, is that the frame rails have almost no wear. It was a police trade in, and aside from the holster wear, the gun was probably not fired that much.
I am actually thinking that I might try Durabake instead. I have read more positive things of Durabake than Duracoat and cure time is much much quicker. I believe Durabake can also be sprayed over the factory Sig finish. I will scotch brite the frame a little though just to rough it up a little bit. You can see the wear Im talking about under the front of the slide.