TRP FTE question - XDTalk Forums - Your HS2000/SA-XD Information Source!

burgerdude · 02-25-2008, 06:39 PM

I've been lurking around this site for awhile and now that I recently purchased a used SS TRP which was in like new condition I thought I'd ask a question or two. Using the factory mags and Blazer Brass I had multiple extraction problems on my first outing at the range (first box of 50 there were about 15+ FTE). Its had about 100 rnds thru it now and while it seemed that the extraction problem lessened somewhat I wanted to get some feedback from the forum if possible. I'm not sure how many rnds the original owner put thru it but it couldn't have been much judging by its condition when I bought it. Regarding the FTE's, I noted that sometimes the empty shell would not eject and the returning slide would put it back into battery, most times it would just stovepipe. I've read that this problem is usually the extractor and that 1911's usually need a "break in period" so I'm not panicking. So, do I put another 2-3 hundred rnds down the pipe first or start playing with the extractor now? Or, could the problem likely be something else? I've never done any gunsmithing or adjusting ...just the usual field stripping. I purchased a new S/A 1911 9mm last year and it ran just fine right out of the box so I know how their supposed to work.

bigun · 02-25-2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgerdude

I've been lurking around this site for awhile and now that I recently purchased a used SS TRP which was in like new condition I thought I'd ask a question or two. Using the factory mags and Blazer Brass I had multiple extraction problems on my first outing at the range (first box of 50 there were about 15+ FTE). Its had about 100 rnds thru it now and while it seemed that the extraction problem lessened somewhat I wanted to get some feedback from the forum if possible. I'm not sure how many rnds the original owner put thru it but it couldn't have been much judging by its condition when I bought it. Regarding the FTE's, I noted that sometimes the empty shell would not eject and the returning slide would put it back into battery, most times it would just stovepipe. I've read that this problem is usually the extractor and that 1911's usually need a "break in period" so I'm not panicking. So, do I put another 2-3 hundred rnds down the pipe first or start playing with the extractor now? Or, could the problem likely be something else? I've never done any gunsmithing or adjusting ...just the usual field stripping. I purchased a new S/A 1911 9mm last year and it ran just fine right out of the box so I know how their supposed to work.

remove the slide and slide a case in under the extractor, it should hold the round loosely, if you feel alot of resistance pushing the case up under the extractor remove the firing pin stop by pushing in on the firing pin untill it slides free be carefull as the firing pin is under spring tension and will launch into parts unknown if you dont maintain control of it. Now slide the extractor out of its hole in the slide it may take a small punch to slide the tip back enough to slide it out of its hole. Slide the extractor 2/3 of its length out of its hole and put thumb pressure against the firing pin side, not a whole lot of pressure is needed then slide it back in and try the whole process over again. If the extractor wont hold the case do this process the same but apply pressure to the outside of the extractor.

burgerdude · 02-26-2008, 06:10 PM

Taking Bigun's advice I removed the barrel and tried sliding a loaded shell under the extractor by pushing it up from the bottom of the open slide. It engaged snugly without an issue or much effort and remained snug while I jiggled the slide around. The loaded shell shifted but never disengaged from the extractor. I'm stumped.

bigun · 02-26-2008, 06:46 PM

Did you remove the extractor and check for burrs? It sounds like the problem is other than the extractor, does the ejector look damaged? it should have a straight tip if it is bent or broken it might not be making contact with the shell base.

burgerdude · 02-27-2008, 03:24 PM

The ejector looked straight and true and the extractor was without any burrs. One question though, how long is the ejector tang supposed to be? I plan on just shooting it more and see if it settles down. I also plan on having the magwell blended by SA so while it's there I'll ask them to do a diagnostic in case it doesn't get better with just shooting it. Thanks for all the suggestions.

bigun · 02-27-2008, 06:35 PM

Other than shooting a couple of hundred more rounds through it to complete the break in I'm at a loss. Sometimes they need to just be shot.

02-25-2008, 06:39 PM	#1
burgerdude XDTalk Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 3	TRP FTE question I've been lurking around this site for awhile and now that I recently purchased a used SS TRP which was in like new condition I thought I'd ask a question or two. Using the factory mags and Blazer Brass I had multiple extraction problems on my first outing at the range (first box of 50 there were about 15+ FTE). Its had about 100 rnds thru it now and while it seemed that the extraction problem lessened somewhat I wanted to get some feedback from the forum if possible. I'm not sure how many rnds the original owner put thru it but it couldn't have been much judging by its condition when I bought it. Regarding the FTE's, I noted that sometimes the empty shell would not eject and the returning slide would put it back into battery, most times it would just stovepipe. I've read that this problem is usually the extractor and that 1911's usually need a "break in period" so I'm not panicking. So, do I put another 2-3 hundred rnds down the pipe first or start playing with the extractor now? Or, could the problem likely be something else? I've never done any gunsmithing or adjusting ...just the usual field stripping. I purchased a new S/A 1911 9mm last year and it ran just fine right out of the box so I know how their supposed to work.

02-26-2008, 06:46 PM	#4
bigun XDTalk 2K Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Southern Iowa Posts: 2,563	Did you remove the extractor and check for burrs? It sounds like the problem is other than the extractor, does the ejector look damaged? it should have a straight tip if it is bent or broken it might not be making contact with the shell base. __________________ Remington Rand 1911A1, Kimber Pro CDP 2, Kimber Custom Target, Ruger mark2 Govt model with Bushnell Holo site, Beretta 92D 9mm, Kahr K-40, Coming soon Kimber Warrior or Springfield Operator.

02-27-2008, 06:35 PM	#6
bigun XDTalk 2K Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Southern Iowa Posts: 2,563	Other than shooting a couple of hundred more rounds through it to complete the break in I'm at a loss. Sometimes they need to just be shot. __________________ Remington Rand 1911A1, Kimber Pro CDP 2, Kimber Custom Target, Ruger mark2 Govt model with Bushnell Holo site, Beretta 92D 9mm, Kahr K-40, Coming soon Kimber Warrior or Springfield Operator.

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02-26-2008, 06:10 PM	#3
burgerdude XDTalk Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 3	Taking Bigun's advice I removed the barrel and tried sliding a loaded shell under the extractor by pushing it up from the bottom of the open slide. It engaged snugly without an issue or much effort and remained snug while I jiggled the slide around. The loaded shell shifted but never disengaged from the extractor. I'm stumped.

02-27-2008, 03:24 PM	#5
burgerdude XDTalk Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 3	The ejector looked straight and true and the extractor was without any burrs. One question though, how long is the ejector tang supposed to be? I plan on just shooting it more and see if it settles down. I also plan on having the magwell blended by SA so while it's there I'll ask them to do a diagnostic in case it doesn't get better with just shooting it. Thanks for all the suggestions.