Custom 1911 Pistol – Components / Materials?

[gunnie 12]

I know that steel offers better tolerances and fitting from slide to frame.

What about external components like the slide stop, thumb safety, beavertail, magwell, magazine catch and button – is it better to be stainless steel or steel?

Reference to the slide is it better to have a flat top for sight radius; however, serrated?

Guide rod – steel or stainless referencing one-piece rod or two-piece?

Hammer - stainless or steel?

Thanks in advance....!

[ichy_trigger]

As long as you use quality parts, you will be happy. The benefit of stainless is its resitance to the elements. As far as top serrations, thats going to be personal preferance. With the guiderods, I prefer one piece rods myself.

[AKpredator]

As long as you buy quality components and have a good smith do it up for you, blue and stainless won't be a super big deal. Most gunsmiths prefer to work on carbon steel guns as they are easier to rub and scrub but stainless has it's place for hostile weather environments and saltwater.

In stainless, Magwells, bobtail, frontstrap, checkering, safeties and tang mods can be done without costly refinishing, particularly if you buy like a Wilson CQB and have parts fitted later, thus you might need to re-finish it. Stainless allows for a some indecision and experimentation. Hand fitting can lose it's edge with stainless guns over time. Gauling is common on Series 80 Colt's.

Flatten, serrate, mount your sights, fit your barrel and bushing and front cocking groves is all you need to do to your fitted slide before you put a good rust resistant finish on it. Hard chrome is nice unless you are in salty air, then I would get Armor Tuff, Black-T, Ceramic coat, something like that.

STI frames and slides are a good match for a long term, high round count, state of the art range, match and carry gun. A well-built piece will be cheaper than a 1911 in steel and will probably last 100,000 rounds plus before any major work needs to be done. The mags can be finicky and need follower and spring replacement once a year or so. My SV Infinity 40 from APW in Florida shot under 1" at 25 yards and was baby hair tight at 30,000 rounds.

Wilson, Caspian, Rock River, Les Baer, STI are all good platforms to build on as are the new Series 70 Colt's. I have noted amazing accuracy and trigger pull on plain blue Colt 1991A1 Gov't models. Several friends and aquaintances have them with minimal custom work and they perform beautifully with awesome triggers.

I love a flattened slide top and serrations going the full length of the slide at 40 LPI. It reduces glare, allows for a taller front sight, and allows for a more natural point of aim and man it's pretty.

Ed Brown, STI, S&A, Kings and Wilson Grip safeties are all good. Get one with the raised pad. I like the Ed Brown and S&A best.

Same for thumb safeties. Ed Brown makes a wide and narrow model that many shooters prefer. Many competitors buy a wide one and reduce it to fit their thumb.

I need a magwell on a gov't for maximum grip space, texture and control. Wilson and S&A's fit the bill pretty well. I like the S&A best but I have three Wilson speed chute's and they work well and are %70 cheaper. A perfectly blended magwell is one mark of a master 1911 plumber.

I like a one piece guide rod, solid steel. Ed Brown and Wilson both make a good one. Tungsten is ok for competition but they are very heavy to carry and they don't make a huge difference with carry type ammo in 45 ACP.


Sights...Bo-Mar, Heinie or something that offers serrations on the rear blade and a nice dovetail fit. I like Heinie sights for carry and IDPA but I also carried a gun with Bo-Mar adjustable sights for years and never had a problem and the rear blade is a fast change, too. Serrated front sights are nice. XS small dot fronts are good for short sight radius guns not being used for precision work. Gold bead sights are nice and they last forever. I really like the sights on STI Trojan 1911's. The front sight is thin and clear and allows for some color if you want to add it and the rear sits in a leaf cut and is very solid. Night sights for a carry gun but they hamper you in failing light situations and in a match as they give off a grey coloration that is hard to differentiate at high speed. Heine Slant Pro sights will do you good. Put some paint on the front if you need to. A fiber optic front is good too.

Cylinder & Slide manufactures trigger kits and these are excellent, especially when they do it. I have seen three done on Para guns and they are first rate and reasonably priced. Stay away from titanium hammers, sears, struts. Firing pins are ok.

Checkering on the frontstrap or else use skateboard type tape, which I really like. 25 LPI doesn't cut up your clothes, better friction than 30. Stippling is ok but I don't think it makes much difference and it's ugly and costs nearly the same.

Stock options have increased in recent years, Cocbolo looks good on anything and lasts long. I have kingwood, cocobolo, diamondwood, vz, simonech gunners grips and G10 and I like them all. The Burner Grips are good for competition but they stick to everything in the house.

Bar-Sto, Kart, Schumann and Wilson are the only barrels I have really used to any extent. It's who fits them that really matters. Bar-Sto is legendary but Schuman makes a nice barrel, too. I have been impressed by my Wilson's over the years. Whatever the brand...It will be the heart and soul of your gun.

Wilson and McCormick mags are the most common. I have always been very impressed by Metalform mags and they are very inexpensive. Wilson and Ed Brown make the best ten rounders. Take care of them... this is what feeds your gun.

You might try this...www.cylinder-slide.com or drop forum member Bob Hostetter a line. C&S can build you a gun (your frame and slide) for under $2500 with all I just described in less than 6 months. Thay also sell their R&D 1911 (pictured below) for $1695...it's very nice from one of the best names in the industry.




Hope this helps you out.

AKpredator

[Apdl]

dang now breathe

haha great info

[gunnie 12]

Attn: AKpredator:

“Thank you” for the information; very much appreciated! Can you comment regarding a 9mm 1991 platform as that is what I am looking to put together? Barrel or other special components needed?

Who is S&A, you reference them in magwells?

[gunnie 12]

I forgot – “series 70” versus “series 80” 1911?

Advantages and disadvantage of each?

[mvician]

http://www.1911forum.com

everything you want to know about the 1911 can be found there

Mike

[tnek]

Originally Posted by mvician

http://www.1911forum.com

everything you want to know about the 1911 can be found there

Mike

Yup,,, and one vote for stainless guns. You can work on them and not have to worry about refinishing.

[AKpredator]

I took my snorkle with me on that last one.


Series 70 type guns are better but plenty have the 80's, including yours truly. I have always been happy with them, so it's up to you. I am not, however, aware of any 1991A1 Colt's in 9mm caliber and if you did find one, I am quite sure a premium will be on it. The 9 x 23 guns they made are commanding $1500 or so. Stick with Springfield or STI. These are Series 70 style guns.

S&A is www.smithandalexander.com they make the magwells and stocks to fit them and they are a great company to deal with.

In 9mm you will want to pay good attention to who builds your gun. STI makes the Trojan in 9mm and it's top notch. You have to watch the feed ramp to make sure it is always polished mirror brite to feed the shorter 9mm x 19 round but accuracy is excellent. Dawson Precision does a good reliabilty and function check and can add on parts for you for good prices.
A good barrel is critical but it's routine and lots of folks are doing them. Most folks are making ramped barrels but the Kimber guns are coming with standard, unramped bushing type barrels and they work and shoot fine.

I like a 124 grain RN lead over 4.0 grains of Viht N320 and a match grade primer. Load them long to enhance reliability in 1911 platforms.

AKpredator

[gunnie 12]

Ramped versus un-ramped barrels? Which is best? Does the frame need a cut-out for a ramped barrel?