Care and Feeding / Guide Rod

[fredj338]

I don't know about the "Wet & dirty", but they do not like to be shot dry. I have gone to a high quality gun grease instead of oil. It seems to last longer between cleanings & I shoot mostly lead. I have 1911s with both FL & GI spring guides. The Gi is certainly easier to field strip, but I can deal w/ the FL as well. I haven't noticed much diff. in recoil spring longevity.

[Charlie Xray]

I have never seen or read of any quantifiable evidence that a FLGR does anything good. My objection to them is they make disassembly more difficult and the two-piece ones are especially prone to problems like coming apart. If you must have one the one-piece is the only way to go.

When they became all the rage years ago I installed them, then when reality set in, I removed them and went back to the simple way JMB designed the pistol.

Springs ought to be replaced periodically anyway. Some say every 1000 - 2000 rounds. And who cares if there are "scratches" inside the dust cover and on the barrel, which BTW, I have never encountered any internal spring wear damage of any consequence on any of my 1911s, including the one my father-in-law carried in WWII and wore out a barrel on, he shot it so much.

CX

[scooterj]

The FLGR will add weight to the front of the gun and dampen felt recoil. It will also slow down splits between shots and transitions between targets. As far as keeping the spring strait, it's inside the dust cover, where is it gonna go?

[ranburr]

Originally Posted by bigun

During the break in process keep the gun almost dripping wet to avoid galling, this is especially important on stainless guns. Excessive oil is not as big of a problem with a 1911 as it is with many other designs so I'd rather run them wet than not.

Galling was only an issue on the first stainless guns a few decades ago. Using different grades of stainless for the slide and frame has made this an issue of the past. Too much oil is a liability w/a 1911. I use a little grease on the moving parts. Short of prolonged exposure in -65F, good grease will not thicken up on you.

[bigun]

Originally Posted by ranburr

Galling was only an issue on the first stainless guns a few decades ago. Using different grades of stainless for the slide and frame has made this an issue of the past. Too much oil is a liability w/a 1911. I use a little grease on the moving parts. Short of prolonged exposure in -65F, good grease will not thicken up on you.

I disagree with the close tollerances held by most 1911 manufacturers today and with typical manufacturing burrs ect galling can still be an issue, One of the members here had a problem with galling with a DW a year or two ago so it still can and does happen. I have always run my handguns wetter than most and have never had any issues with quality made pistols, I am also a Beretta trained armorer for a small Police Dept and have noticed no differance in build up in guns to either end of the spectrum from barely adequate lube to wet. We are all issued the same weapon so I should see a differance but other than accelerated wear in the under lubed guns I see no differance in the carbon deposits. Hilton Yam has also recomended running the 1911 wet as have other's that are in the know and run tactical shooting schools so if you know something that these folks dont please enlighten us.

[soloman02]

So what's a good synthetic oil for cold weather use?

[scooterj]

Originally Posted by soloman02

So what's a good synthetic oil for cold weather use?

FP-10 year round

[ranburr]

Originally Posted by bigun

Hilton Yam has also recomended running the 1911 wet as have other's that are in the know and run tactical shooting schools so if you know something that these folks dont please enlighten us.

I've been to most of those tactical shooting schools and never had an issue. A little lube goes a long way.

[bigun]

Originally Posted by ranburr

I've been to most of those tactical shooting schools and never had an issue. A little lube goes a long way.

What grease are you using??