How To Install the Powder River Precision Safety Lever and Overtravel Stop

[Tally XD]

Originally Posted by DonXD40

I'd really like to see pic's of what you did, so that this would be a little more clear to me. If I understand what you did correctly, it sounds like a nice bit of ingenuity.

I wish I had a camera to take pics but I don't. I added some info to the photos more clearly illustrating what I done.

By the way, this can be done by removing only the sear group and safety lever. No need to remove trigger assembly and locking block.

Basically, what I did was, to drill a small hole, tiny hole very tiny about the diameter of a paper clip, in to the meat of the frame behind where the trigger bar hits the frame. You can clearly see this area just by removing your slide. Once the slide is removed, pull the trigger and watch the trigger bar go forward and then return to stop. At the back of the frame, next to the sear group, you will see a slight "hump" in the trigger bar. That hump hits the rear of the frame and stops rearward travel of the trigger bar. You should be able to figure out where to drill and place the screw. The screw will need to go into the frame just exactly where the trigger bar hits.

Drill straight back into the plastic, as straight as possible for the pilot hole. Screw the small screw in all the way till it bottoms out. Put the trigger bar back into place, install the sear group pieces and give it a try. You may need to file some off the trigger bar or screw head to allow for proper reset and function of the trigger hinge safety.

[Scotty G]

Ok, got everything installed on the kit so far... Up next is the overtravel stop and the trigger safety bar.

Nobody has mentioned the difference in the PRP trigger bar (no notch in the back) and the stock Springfield trigger bar (notched in the back).

Did you guys file the notch so the trigger safety bar works and fits flush when you pull the trigger?

I know...Dumb question, but of course there are no directions and I can't find where anybody filed a notch in.

Thanks in advance.

[powder river]

The new XDms have a plastic trigger. This trigger has a web across the back that connects the two "legs" of the trigger. The factory trigger safety has a notch in the back of it to accommodate. I file the notch in the new trigger safety to match the factory one.
Again this step is only necessary on xdms with the new plastic triggers.

[Scotty G]

That's what I thought, but wanted to wait before filing into good parts. I appreciate it.

Another question... The new trigger was great today, but after 50 or so rounds, the reset began to stick. Meaning I had to move the trigger forward to get it to reset or fire at all. Where should I look for a fix for this. More filing/fitting?

Thanks.

[powder river]

Originally Posted by Scotty G

That's what I thought, but wanted to wait before filing into good parts. I appreciate it.

Another question... The new trigger was great today, but after 50 or so rounds, the reset began to stick. Meaning I had to move the trigger forward to get it to reset or fire at all. Where should I look for a fix for this. More filing/fitting?

Thanks.

I would check the "Hook" on the trigger bar and see if there is a burr form when they stamped it. If there is just knock it off with a stone or file. It does not take very much .003" max. If the trigger bar looks good then you may need to fit the "tab" on the safety lever. It is the vertical surface indicated by the red arrow in the pic below. Again only .003" and keep things square.

[Scotty G]

I polished up my trigger bar at the appropriate points, and still had the problem at the range. Just trying to make small incremental changes to see what happens.

So the next step if to knock off that .003 from the triangle. Many thanks.

[john_bud]

Originally Posted by powder river

The new XDms have a plastic trigger. This trigger has a web across the back that connects the two "legs" of the trigger. The factory trigger safety has a notch in the back of it to accommodate. I file the notch in the new trigger safety to match the factory one.
Again this step is only necessary on xdms with the new plastic triggers.

I was about to click "order" on a kit but read this in a window. Would you please put more out about this? A picture is worth a dozen words as they say. Especially to a plastic trigger owner.... I've read every post in this thread and had it clear, until this one!

thanks!
jb

[Draven]

First I want to thank propellerhead for starting this thread and creating an excellent walkthru for this install.

Everyone else that has contributed to this thread have been a great deal of help in discussing your experience, problems and resolutions.

A BIG Thank you to Daniel at PRP for creating great products for the XDM and continuing to make this a great shooting community. All of the comments mentioned about the excellent level of service Daniel provides is no exaggeration. Other companies could learn a thing or two by following in Daniel's foot-steps and supporting their products like he does. When I ran into a problem with my install and didn't know where to turn I picked up the phone late on a Saturday evening and placed a call to PRP. Within a couple rings to my surprise Daniel answered and happily walked me thru a few steps to answer my questions! WOW! I can't believe someone was available so late on a weekend!

Prior to this install I had only detail stripped the xdm for cleaning and wasn't sure how difficult this undertaking was going to be even with everyone's feedback in this thread of how easy it is. I purchased the video along with the Match kit and it was very helpful being able to watch the process. I did notice something that may have been left off the video. On the video there is mention of removing both the striker safety lever spring and sear spring but it does not mention reinstalling the striker safety lever spring. Now the gun functions and passes all the safety tests with this spring left off and I didn't notice that it needed to be reinstalled until I reread through the threads of this forum and saw that there was an extra spring laying around!

Overall the install went without mishap and was much easier than I anticipated. Everything functions correctly and its amazing how little travel is in the trigger now. After installing the new trigger spring and trigger safety I don't believe there is much difference in trigger pull weight. Does anyone know what else to do to decrease the pull weight?

I do have another question illustrated by this picture of my install below:


Is the disassembler suppose to fit flush in the notch on the top left corner of the sear?

With the disassembler in that position the grip safety is sticking out of the grip properly and functions correctly and smoothly without sticking and the gun functions without issue. Now if I push the sear back slightly to move the disassembler into the slot the grip safety is pulled into the grip and does not function correctly. And this is how it looks:


Beside the obvious "leave it the way it works" could I have possibly missed something or not fitted the striker lever safety correctly?

I plan on going to the range this weekend and test everything out but did not want to cause any damage if something is not lined up correctly.

Any help or your experience would be appreciated

[deeringdeluxe]

Hey guys, just wanted to let everyone know that I have posted a "how-to" on installing the Powder Precision Match Target Trigger Kit on the XD 9mm Service model. Here's the link: (there's part one and part two)

YouTube - 01/02 - How to install an XD 9mm Powder River Precision Match Trigger Kit
YouTube - 02/02 - How to install an XD 9mm Powder River Precision Match Trigger Kit

It's simple, but maybe it will help someone.

[ForTehNguyen]

wow great video