How To Install the Powder River Precision Safety Lever and Overtravel Stop

[45slim]

I got my easy kit today and after reading the thread I installed it.

After I put the slide back on, the trigger wont pull. How to I get the slid off now that the gun is cocked and wont engage the sear?

[45slim]

Thanks you all for this thread I found my answer after rereading.

[JROD]

Just installed the Powder River Precision XD easy fit trigger kit in my XD40SC and I am very happy with the results. This thread allowed me to perform a task that I usually leave to those who know what they are doing. Great pictures, great info, great product. Just wanted to say thank you. I have been shooting IDPA for about 6 months with a Glock 34 that has the best trigger I had ever felt in a polymer weapon. Not anymore, almost zero take-up, clean crisp break, very little overtravel, nice reset. Thanks!!

[JacketShot]

Just finished working through this thread...now I am ready to order some parts! Sounds like an absolute winner. I'll come back to report once I get it done.

[Josh T]

At the WA state IDPA match last Saturday... there were a bunch of guys from Cali in my squad bragging about the triggers on their Glocks, and teasing me about shooting a "clunky XD"... "those things have terrible triggers"... "I had a gunsmith tune-up my Glock trigger"... etc. I handed them my XD9 with the PRP kit installed (in the Safe Area of course)... a couple pulls later and all trash talk stopped. They couldn't believe I installed it myself.

What a great kit... the best thing you can do to an XD for under $100.

[2manyhobbies]

Ordered the Easy Fit Match yesterday. Can't wait to get it installed. Can I mix and match the stock springs with the ones that are supplied in the kit to get my trigger pull where I want it?

[powder river]

Originally Posted by 2manyhobbies

Ordered the Easy Fit Match yesterday. Can't wait to get it installed. Can I mix and match the stock springs with the ones that are supplied in the kit to get my trigger pull where I want it?

Thank you for your business. You can use any combination of factory and our springs to vary the pull weight.

[LoneOak]

Just a quick note from a long time Powder River Trigger owner. The trigger on my XD-9-SC is so sweet this is what I do when I go to the range.

I load a couple mags for the Xd-9 and a couple for my 1911-45 and lay them on the bench. I practice a mag in one gun and then a mag in the other, back and forth till I run out of ammo.

The trigger in my XD with the Powder River Precision Trigger parts is so close to the trigger in my 1911 that I can go from one to the other and the only thing I have to change is my grip for the heavier 45. The trigger pull, travel and reset are nearly identical and a couple of my friends have agreed with my findings.

I have installed several of these kits in friends guns and everyone is happy as an orgasm with the outcome. I must say I have spent a little extra time on mine, polishing and tinkering but I believe I have one of the nicest triggers of any XD out there.

There is no better way to get a smooth short match grade trigger on an XD than by installing a Powder River Precision Match Grade Trigger Kit.

Shameless Plug for the good folks, Daniel and Michell at Powder River Precision.

[Tally XD]

Great thread!! This is why I enjoy XDTalk!

So, I got my PRP pieces last week. I ordered the stainless over travel stop, reduced power sear and trigger springs and the titanium striker safety block.

Like an idiot I forgot to order the new safety lever

After a tree limb fell on my Jeep, and did a good bit of damage, the insurance deductible made sure I was broke. I didn't have the money to order another kit so I could have the new safety lever. I had to improvise.

The PRP safety lever is what removes the take-up and pre-travel from the XD trigger. So, with the stainless over travel stop installed and fitted, titanium striker block in place, a nicely polished trigger bar and sear surfaces I had a pretty good trigger. However, my pre-travel was still undesirable.

Taking a good look I found that the trigger bar has a tab that engages with another tab on the safety lever. With the factory safety lever there is a lot of trigger travel before this contact is made.

The PRP safety lever repositions this tab on the safety lever so that the trigger bar contacts it sooner thus removing that loose pre-travel. The PRP safety lever also engages the sear sooner to reduce take-up until sear release.

I didn't want to remove all of the take-up but just get rid of the loose "dead" travel before safety lever contact.

Using what I believe is a similar method, employed by Springer Precision to reduce this travel, I robbed a very tiny screw from the earpiece hinge of a pair of sunglasses. This small screw became my "pre-travel" adjustment. The over travel stop is already fit and still works perfectly after this modification.

The only thing unchanged is the trigger take-up until break. That travel is still factory but is not bad at all once the "dead" travel is removed and everything else has been smoothed and lightened.

Below are pics, borrowed from Propeller Head in another thread on this subject, and labeled as to what I did to improve my over travel.

I hope this method is good because it certainly worked for me! By the way, this can be done by removing only the sear group and safety lever. No need to remove trigger assembly and locking block. Just remove the sear and safety lever, lightly pry sideways on the trigger bar with a screw driver and pull it up and out of the way while you install the screw.


Below I have highlighted the trigger bar and the tab that contacts the tab of the safety lever.




Below I have highlighted the area where I drilled a small hole for the tiny screw. The eyeglass screw has nice fat course threads perfect for threading itself into hard plastic and holding firm! It also has a very small flat head with a phillips slot for jewelers screwdriver. Some filing was necessary to get trigger reset correct. Keep the screw hole as close to the outer edge as possible for positive engagement with the trigger bar.
Note: This drill hole could also be made by heating the tip of a paper clip and carefully melting the hole into the frame. You just need a small pilot hole for the screw threads to start. Go about 3/16" deep.




Another view of where to place the screw. NOTE: It is very necessary to test the function after this install. If the screw is out too far the trigger will not reset and the hinged trigger safety will not come away from the locking block. I turned the screw all the way in and even filed a little off the screw head to get it perfect. This modification changes the position of the trigger slightly back but is very comfortable that way! I now can get a better finger position on the trigger.

[DonXD40]

Originally Posted by Tally XD

Great thread!! This is why I enjoy XDTalk!

So, I got my PRP pieces last week. I ordered the stainless over travel stop, reduced power sear and trigger springs and the titanium striker safety block.

Like an idiot I forgot to order the new safety lever

After a tree limb fell on my Jeep, and did a good bit of damage, the insurance deductible made sure I was broke. I didn't have the money to order another kit so I could have the new safety lever. I had to improvise.

The PRP safety lever is what removes the take-up and pre-travel from the XD trigger. So, with the stainless over travel stop installed and fitted, titanium striker block in place, a nicely polished trigger bar and sear surfaces I had a pretty good trigger. However, my pre-travel was still undesirable.

Taking a good look I found that the trigger bar has a tab that engages with another tab on the safety lever. With the factory safety lever there is a lot of trigger travel before this contact is made.

The PRP safety lever repositions this tab on the safety lever so that the trigger bar contacts it sooner thus removing that loose pre-travel. The PRP safety lever also engages the sear sooner to reduce take-up until sear release.

I didn't want to remove all of the take-up but just get rid of the loose "dead" travel before safety lever contact.

Using what I believe is a similar method, employed by Springer Precision to reduce this travel, I robbed a very tiny screw from the earpiece hinge of a pair of sunglasses. This small screw became my "pre-travel" adjustment. The over travel stop is already fit and still works perfectly after this modification.

The only thing unchanged is the trigger take-up until break. That travel is still factory but is not bad at all once the "dead" travel is removed and everything else has been smoothed and lightened.

Below are pics, borrowed from Propeller Head in another thread on this subject, and labeled as to what I did to improve my over travel.

I hope this method is good because it certainly worked for me!


Below I have highlighted the trigger bar and the tab that contacts the tab of the safety lever.




Below I have highlighted the area where I drilled a small hole for the tiny screw. The eyeglass screw has nice fat course threads perfect for threading itself into hard plastic and holding firm! It also has a very small flat head with a phillips slot for jewelers screwdriver. Some filing was necessary to get trigger reset correct. Keep the screw hole as close to the outer edge as possible for positive engagement with the trigger bar.




Another view of where to place the screw. NOTE: It is very necessary to test the function after this install. If the screw is out too far the trigger will not reset and the hinged trigger safety will not come away from the locking block. I turned the screw all the way in and even filed a little off the screw head to get it perfect. This modification changes the position of the trigger slightly back but is very comfortable that way! I now can get a better finger position on the trigger.

I'd really like to see pic's of what you did, so that this would be a little more clear to me. If I understand what you did correctly, it sounds like a nice bit of ingenuity.