How To Install the Powder River Precision Safety Lever and Overtravel Stop

[Old Stumps]

Prices do include shipping. Thank goodness because I too will be ordering another OT stop. One thing I would offer is to take this apart and then put it back together a number of times before you actually install the OT stop (you'll do so anyway, but it helps). The second thing is to go through the same effort PH did and put the parts together outside and then inside the gun. This isn't only for the OT stop which goes inside the block between the trigger and the block, but also for things like the slide lock which goes between the block and the frame so that it can interact with the spring. It's hard to figure out how far you have to put it back together to actually test the OT stop (for me at least) so I wound up taking off far too much B and probably too much A as well because I didn't really understand how it all went together until after doing it a number of times. Anyway after replacing the trigger spring the pull is noticeably lighter overall. All safeties are functional but OT stoppage isn't (trigger goes all the way to the guard). So I'll get another and take a little more time next time and try again. Fun stuff though and I'll check with Daniel later today on a couple of points of parts function.

[jcampanella]

I just installed the PRP overtravel stop, trigger spring and pretravel safety lever. The overtravel stop works great. Had to take out twice and sand it to get it right but good now. While the pretravel is less than stock it is still more than I would like. I didn't not replace the sear spring and did not remove the sear to get the stafety lever. Just backed the pin out enough to get the old one out and the new one in. Did I do something wrong or is the pre travel just reduced and not eliminated with the PRP safety lever?

[Old Stumps]

XD or XDm? Don't forget that the trigger safety still makes it feel like your moving the trigger. Measure pretravel after that's collapsed. I don't have much at all left.

[Wilkenstein]

I didn't have to take anything off section "A." Is that normal or should I take some off? It feels pretty darn good as is. Done on a 45c.

And thanks for sweet writeup PH and thanks for a sweet product PRP. Is there a writeup for replacing the mag release. I think that's going to be my next mod.

[LancerV]

Originally Posted by Wilkenstein

I didn't have to take anything off section "A." Is that normal or should I take some off? It feels pretty darn good as is. Done on a 45c.

And thanks for sweet writeup PH and thanks for a sweet product PRP. Is there a writeup for replacing the mag release. I think that's going to be my next mod.

Mag Release is prob the easiest thing to do, just drift out the pin about 1/3 of a inch pull out old mag release and put in new one

[Wilkenstein]

Sweet man, thanks.

[Old Stumps]

I received my second OT stop for my XDm last night and will be installing that tonight or tomorrow morning before heading to the range. Daniel has mentioned that the part for the XDm should require much less adjustment, including trying it with nothing taken off the oval A on the side of the piece and slowing things down when you reach the side of the oval A on the B face adjustment. Also I don't have to put it completely together to test it. There is a little grab clip that holds the sear as a part of the take down linkage. It can be drawn back and the sear released to try the trigger with the slide off. So only block, trigger and OT stop need to installed with the back pin in the block. How far back the trigger needs to be able to go is when the sear edge is just getting close to the top of the frame rails. Can't wait to try this better approach and get this right.

Thanks Daniel for getting this out so quickly.

[Old Stumps]

DONE DEAL! Daniel told me three things to watch. The first two I simply did. First I didn't mess with the A oval at all. I simply left the width of the OT stop where it was. Secondly he said to start being careful when taking material off the B surface when you got near the oval on the A surface. Others have talked about the slight angling of the B surface to fit the trigger bar shape. I still used my Dremel. I saw how badly the first OT stop missed the mark. I had about an 1/8" too much material off. I brought the B surface close to the oval. I angled it about 20 degrees and then knocked off the corner where it meets the interior round of the trigger bar. Although I was pretty sure I got Daniel's third thing (how far I would have to put it back together before being able to test) I missed something and simply put it all back together after the minute or so Dremel effort. It works perfectly! The PT is gone except for the safety takeup. The OT stop now leaves the trigger about a 1/4 inch from the back of the trigger guard. The creep remains but I will tell you this - If this had the feel it has now when I first shot it I would have been very very happy with the gun right off the bat. To the range in a couple hours to see how it all works. All safeties were tested functional when I got done.

Daniel made this easy. First by making the parts work out of the box (as close as possible for the OT stop). And secondly, being available to give very clear guidance on how it should work. Thanks!

Also I really appreciate this thread (and the one on XDm disassembly). Really great to find this out here and be able to take advantage of it. I have failed to add some pictures but will when I disassemble for cleaning later today to wrap this all up.

[Modificationvt]

I just replaced my frame screw with the easy fit over travel stop, and added the spring kit as well to bring my trigger pull down to 3-4#'s...I continue to be amazed at how much PRP has improved my XD's trigger. I know that any future XD's I get will also be getting the PRP trigger

[hilefai]

Installed my over travel and striker safety lever kit for my XD45. Went in like a charm. Took out the over travel stop three times to fit it, but one I got it right, man what a difference. Thanks Daniel!