How To Install the Powder River Precision Safety Lever and Overtravel Stop

[GARDNER]

I ordered my parts on Monday 12pm. I had them Wednesday at 3pm. All the way to Orlando for $2.00. Was USPS which is not really snail mail anymore. Great products and great service!

[1lowlife]

Great write up propellerhead.
I installed the lever in my XD45 compact a week ago.
Although I did have my trigger bar drilled and tapped.
He came out with the new part right after I had him do my trigger bar.
I haven't shot the pistol yet, but I can already tell how much better the trigger feels.
I'll probably do the same for my XD9sc with the new part.
Daniel and Michelle at Powder River are a pleasure to deal with.

[Cavediver]

Excellent write-up!

One question: How do you like the relocated trigger break point? Is it hard to adapt to after shooting the stock trigger for so long?

[propellerhead]

Thanks for all the comments!

Originally Posted by Cavediver

Excellent write-up!

One question: How do you like the relocated trigger break point? Is it hard to adapt to after shooting the stock trigger for so long?

No adjustment period for me. Having the trigger break when you finger is relatively straight compared to almost fully bent with a stock trigger puts less influence on your grip.

[Cavediver]

Originally Posted by propellerhead

Thanks for all the comments!


No adjustment period for me. Having the trigger break when you finger is relatively straight compared to almost fully bent with a stock trigger puts less influence on your grip.

Interesting. I tried to see what this would feel like while dry-firing last night. It seems a bit strange, but maybe not. I guess the only way to know is to try it.

Thanks again!

[propellerhead]

I don't know if you can simulate the feeling on a stock gun. If you do just the Safety Lever (which is so easy to install) you'll instantly feel the difference. Almost all the sloppy takeup is gone. I guarantee you'll want to install the Overtravel Stop too. If you get the kit for a 9/40 and you don't like it, I'll buy it from you. How's that? I'm that confident that you'll like it.

[Cavediver]

Originally Posted by propellerhead

I don't know if you can simulate the feeling on a stock gun. If you do just the Safety Lever (which is so easy to install) you'll instantly feel the difference. Almost all the sloppy takeup is gone. I guarantee you'll want to install the Overtravel Stop too. If you get the kit for a 9/40 and you don't like it, I'll buy it from you. How's that? I'm that confident that you'll like it.

That's a pretty serious endorsement!

I'd already decided to call them today and get a set on order. I'll probably like it. If not, it should be easy enough to sell. I'll let you know how it goes after I get the kit installed.

[kayl]

Ordered a set yesterday

[propellerhead]

Ok. I got my new PRP Overtravel Stop (thanks PRP!!!) and did the fitting again.

Here are a few pointers.

1. When I started with a new Overtravel Stop, Surface A was be so thick that the Trigger Bar and Trigger were leaning to the left. I sanded Surface A first until the Trigger and Trigger Bar looked like it sat straight. As a rough guide, if Surface A is too thick (need to sand off more) the Trigger Bar and Trigger will not sit straight in the Frame. If Surface A is too thin (sanded off too much) it will move to the right when the Trigger Bar pushes against it. Again, it's not that it won't work. You'll just have less contact area.

2. When test fitting, always put the Locking Block back in. I was surprised how different the Overtravel Stop fits with the Locking Block installed. On my first attempt, I was simply using a punch to line up the holes then pulled the trigger. There's still a lot of slop in the Trigger if you're just using a punch.

If the Trigger doesn't move with the Locking Block installed, you'll need to sand off a little more. If the Trigger moves, completely assemble the pistol and test the trigger by dry firing. On my first few test fits, I had to pull on the Trigger with more effort before the Striker was released. That told me that I had the Trigger Bar pushing hard against the Overtravel Stop to break the shot. I disassembled the pistol and sanded a little more. Then I reassembled the pistol and tried again. This time there was no extra effort to release the Striker. That's where I stopped sanding. That was the point where the Trigger Bar had unobstructed forward travel up to just past the point where the Striker is released. As a rough guide, if Surface B is too thick (need to sand off more) the Trigger won't move forward or it will move just a little. Sometimes it will move enough to release the Striker but you have to pull hard. If Surface B is too thin (sanded off too much) there will be more overtravel but still not as bad as the stock gun.

3. When I sanded Surface B, I rounded off the corner. This results in better contact with the Trigger Bar. If you sand it flat the Trigger Bar will be contacting the Overtravel Stop at the corner. It's not that it won't work. I just prefer more contact area.



This is what mine looks like now. I know it looks like the Trigger Bar Spring is in the way but it's not.



This is what it looks like with the Trigger pulled. Notice how the Trigger Bar is pushing against the Overtravel Stop with an area about twice the width of the Trigger Bar and not just a corner.



The picture below was my first attempt. See how the pieces contact at the corner only.




I hope this helps.

[1lowlife]

You da' man PH..............