Color Slide Jobs

[Myk9noseknows]

Originally Posted by agalindo

Here are a couple of good theads on duracoating your slide.

LeeIndy's duracoat thread.

duracoat crazy... just take a look

Thanks for the links. I've been over those threads and nobody talks about the durability

[agalindo]

I'm fixing to duracoat a pistol, and help my son duracoat a pistol and AR I'll keep you informed on how it wears. Molly resin is very durable and I wouldn't hesitate to use it again but like I said the colors are limited so I had to go with duracoat, also I'm painting a polymer frame so I can't bake it. I've also been wanting to hot blue an old .22 revolver and Win94. I've got all the chemicals but haven't had the time to do the actual blueing.

[sa-xd9shooter]

You dropped your XD?!

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by sa-xd9shooter

You dropped your XD?!

Yep, my adjustable speed holster wasn't adjusted correctly so it fell out.

[DPGDirk]

I don't think powdercoating is a good idea.

We have many of our skidplates, bumpers, and other jeep related stuff powdercoated regularly.

Honestly, it's not all that durable. Prep is certainly important, as is proper baking time, etc, but the stuff scratches easier than some of the other coatings you could apply.

I would also agree that it may be too thick.

I haven't had any problems with the factory coatings on my XD's and I carry daily. They are the newer melonite finishes though.

Here's a couple pics of what some of our slides look like:

[Myk9noseknows]

Originally Posted by agalindo

I'm fixing to duracoat a pistol, and help my son duracoat a pistol and AR I'll keep you informed on how it wears. Molly resin is very durable and I wouldn't hesitate to use it again but like I said the colors are limited so I had to go with duracoat, also I'm painting a polymer frame so I can't bake it. I've also been wanting to hot blue an old .22 revolver and Win94. I've got all the chemicals but haven't had the time to do the actual blueing.

Do you have to sandblast it first with aluminum oxide? Will you put a clear on top of the duracoat? Also, when doing a polymer, since it can't be baked, what do you use to color?
I'm thinking of just doing it myself with an airbrush now so that's why all the ???'s

[GT Dan]

One of the guys repsonded and said exactly what everyone else is saying, its to thick...

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by Myk9noseknows

Do you have to sandblast it first with aluminum oxide? Will you put a clear on top of the duracoat? Also, when doing a polymer, since it can't be baked, what do you use to color?
I'm thinking of just doing it myself with an airbrush now so that's why all the ???'s

On metal I would sand blast first, or you can parkerize it. Don't beadblast because it leaves too smooth of a surface.

I won't use clear coat on top of the duracoat.

Since duracoat doesn't need to be baked, I'm using duracoat on the polymer. The trick is to get it free of oils and other contaminants. I used acetone on the XD frame, just soaked a lint free rag and wiped the frame. On the metal parts I just dunk the slide and etc.. into the acetone.

Personaly I think that the baked on stuff like Mollyresin and Durabake are more wear resistant.

[Myk9noseknows]

So maybe I could use GunKote on the slide and external metals parts and DuraCoat for the polymer frame? That way I can have a good color choice for both and can bake the slide hard.

I just checked out the KG website and they now have an air cure coating for the polymer.

I was going to call the people at GunKote today if I can get ahold of them before they close.

[agalindo]

My son and I just finished this project. It's the XD frame, the slide was done by Tripp Research. We figured a grey frame would go nice with the stainless slide. I have ruger 22/45 that I'm painting pink but I could'nt finish it because I ran out of propellant.