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#1 |
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XDTalk Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 40
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Specific trigger job questions
I know there is a more or less similar post going currently but it doesn't address my specific questions/concerns. I've been following some of the trigger job info for a while but I am still unsure of wht I need to buy to do what I want.
I need some advice in selecting an anniversary gift (It's easier for both of us if I pick mine). I want to do a trigger job on my .40sc. This will be a carry gun so I want the pull to be in the 4-4.5# range. With the exception of the weight and the amount of pre-travel I like the way the stock trigger functions. I know that some aftermarket parts basically eliminate the pre-travel by making the trigger break sooner and in turn creating a lot of over travel that is then adjusted out with the addition of an over travel adjustment screw. What I would prefer would be for the trigger to break in the same location as stock but with a lighter pull that requires a little less pre-travel. My stock trigger currently has a little over travel and I prefer to keep it about the same for the sake of reliability. I’ve heard that the aftermarket sears also make the trigger feel crisper as well as reducing the reset. For those reasons alone I’d like to give one a try but I want to make sure the rest of the pull will not be changed in a way other than I have described. Also, I plan on keeping the stock striker spring as well as doing the work myself. There are several aftermarket trigger options now and I’m confused about what I need to buy to get the trigger I want. For those who want to know why I chose these preferences: 1)4-4.5# pull seems to be minimum that many agree is acceptable for a carry gun 2)It is my opinion that a carry gun should have a noticeable amount of pre-travel. I want to reduce the pre-travel, not eliminate as much as possible. 3)At the range when I am going for accuracy I often find myself pulling the pre-travel out of the trigger then sliding my trigger over slightly to get the trigger away from my finger tip and more on the pad of my finger (my hands are on the smaller side). I think having the trigger set back slightly might eliminate this step as well as improving my finger placement (and accuracy) for shots in which I do not make the adjustment. Anyone have an idea of what components I need to look into to do what I want? Thanks, “X” |
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#2 | |
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XDTalk Member
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#3 |
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XDTalk 100 Member
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well put, and i'm in the exact same boat. I don't have really long fingers so I like it breaking at the rear, I just want to reduce the dead pre-travel and the reset. Over-travel is fine as is right now.
So the powder river part does move the break point foward? I pm'd daniel about this but I don't think I really worded my question properly to get the response I needed(not knocking daniel in any way shape or form). I'll be watching this thread for sure since I want to know the same thing. Right now i'm thinking that a redesigned trigger bar could do the trick, not sure though.
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~Happiness is a warm gun~ XD .45 ACP Compact |
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#4 |
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XDTalk 500 Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 769
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I just installed the Powder River Precision Safety Lever Kit on my 45 service... WOW! I love it.. it will take a little getting used to, but my first time out with it, it worked flawless and amazing. Daniel's customer service is best I have ever dealt with.. ever! He called me on the Sunday i was installing it and walked me through the areas that I needed to file and how much to file... Great guy and Great product!
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Enter my home with peace in your heart- or leave with lead in your @$$!!--unknown but I like it. |
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#5 |
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XDTalk 100 Member
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lets get some more info in here guys. Let us know where the break point is on various setups!
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~Happiness is a warm gun~ XD .45 ACP Compact |
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#6 | |
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XDTalk 4K Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Alpine Texas
Posts: 4,171
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All the drop in kits, Bob's, Springer, Powder River work pretty much the same way, all be it Powder River alters a different part but they do the same thing. Less pretravel by causing engagement of the sear, safety leaver, trigger bar sooner thus a trigger break that happens sooner into the trigger pull, and longer overtravel. The fix for the longer overtravel, is that the trigger bar needs to be altered, replaced with after market trigger bar or the frame drilled and tapped.
As far as I know a mod that does what Eckstee is asking for, shortened pretravel but engagement of the sear identical to OEM specs (further towards the back or end of the trigger motion) is not available as an drop it kit.
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#7 |
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XDTalk 100 Member
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 251
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There is a way to move the trigger back but it should to be done by a gunsmith. You are also limited on how far back you can move it by the trigger safety. It sounds like the thing to do is have a kit that dose not remove so much of the take up. If you can give me a week I can modify some of my levers to give you a "Carry Trigger". It will still move the break point forward some... I can't really think of any way around it right now. Are you interested?
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www.powderriverprecision.com |
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#8 | ||
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XDTalk 4K Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Alpine Texas
Posts: 4,171
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#9 | |
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XDTalk 100 Member
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 251
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I've seen a lot of people figure out ways around safeties. most of the time it involves disabling them in some way. I have a good idea of what you did and it is probably fine..... just not something that I want to do on a customers gun.
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www.powderriverprecision.com |
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#10 | |
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XDTalk 4K Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Alpine Texas
Posts: 4,171
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The safety wasn't disabled I tested it after the alteration and all safeties worked as they should. Yes it's nothing that I would do to anybodies gun other than mine.
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