PowderRiver Trigger mod (video) - Page 9 - XDTalk Forums - Your HS2000/SA-XD Information Source!

COMplex · 03-21-2008, 08:07 AM

I really want to do this mod, but I don't want to drill anything out. Is there a pre-drilled trigger bar?

If I am understanding correctly, I will have reduced take-up and reset, but factory overtravel?

How would I reduce the overtravel without drilling?

rgeliske · 03-21-2008, 08:39 AM

I have been spreading Fastsc92's picture of the setscrew in the frame rather than the trigger bar and it just dawned on me that with the screw in the frame you must remove the trigger bar to adjust the screw. Putting the setscrew in the trigger bar is far easier to adjust or am I missing something?

rgeliske · 03-21-2008, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COMplex

I really want to do this mod, but I don't want to drill anything out. Is there a pre-drilled trigger bar?

If I am understanding correctly, I will have reduced take-up and reset, but factory overtravel?

How would I reduce the overtravel without drilling?

You can't unless you can figure a way to add material to the front of the trigger bar. You might be able to build up some weld bond and then file it down until you get the reset you want. Basically all you need is a little more than 1/8" added to the bend of the trigger bar, you can't have very much sticking out the back side or you will interfere with the magazine.

Fastsc92 · 03-21-2008, 04:09 PM

yes you have to remove the trigger bar to adjust the screw, but it took about 5 min for quick disassembly/reassembly a few times to get it set correctly, and since then I haven't touched it.

Maximum1 · 03-21-2008, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtkratzer

For one, if you drill and tap your own trigger bar, the cost of this project is under $50 even if you have to buy a few parts/tools to make it happen. The trigger bar and sear mod from Pistol gear will run you $140.

$140 buckets that equates to 28% of the original purchase price of the XD itself. ...Sounds spendy!

rgeliske · 03-22-2008, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fastsc92

yes you have to remove the trigger bar to adjust the screw, but it took about 5 min for quick disassembly/reassembly a few times to get it set correctly, and since then I haven't touched it.

I still think I am going to try it on my 45 Compact.

HHjr · 03-22-2008, 03:03 PM

COMplex ..... Yes, you can get a pre drilled trigger bar but then you have to FIT the trigger bar to your gun ..... critical fit points must be perfectly met to obtiain a safe gun.

THe ease of frame dis-assembly makes the frame screw still the easiest option IMHO. Once dialed in it is like the infomercial "set it and forget it" and your stock trigger bar is un molested.

Harold H.

dogboy · 03-24-2008, 08:14 PM

Any chance of slowly building up a "knob" (for lack of a better word) in the frame area that the screw would inhabit? Out of layers of epoxy and some other polymer type material? Would take a lot longer, be more of a hassle, but not likely to weaken the frame, and unlikely to ever come loose (not that the screw IS likely to some loose).

ichy_trigger · 03-25-2008, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogboy

Any chance of slowly building up a "knob" (for lack of a better word) in the frame area that the screw would inhabit? Out of layers of epoxy and some other polymer type material? Would take a lot longer, be more of a hassle, but not likely to weaken the frame, and unlikely to ever come loose (not that the screw IS likely to some loose).

What if this knob comes off or loose and jams up the workings of the gun when you need it most? Screw in the trigger bar or frame are the ONLY 2 options I would consider, or a trigger bar with the metal built up in the right area, such as Springer sells.

rgeliske · 03-25-2008, 06:47 AM

I agree with ichy_trigger I would not want that knob floating around if it broke off. I don't think putting the setscrew in the frame would weakened it all. I also think that in the frame is the least risky, the trigger bar is pretty hard and it is pretty easy to drill the hole off location or break the tap of in the hole. My only concern would be having to take it apart to adjust it, but once set it should not move. Personally I favor the adjustable screw over having to remove material from the trigger bar to get the proper adjustment.

03-21-2008, 08:39 AM	#82
rgeliske XDTalk 1K Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,674	I have been spreading Fastsc92's picture of the setscrew in the frame rather than the trigger bar and it just dawned on me that with the screw in the frame you must remove the trigger bar to adjust the screw. Putting the setscrew in the trigger bar is far easier to adjust or am I missing something? __________________ Sig P220, Taurus PT1911, Browning HiPower 9mm, CZ75, CZ75 P01, S&W Model 60 357, Savage 9317 BTVS .17, Browning Buckmark, Taurus Gaucho 357 (pair), Taurus Gaucho 45LC (pair), Uberti 1873 Saddle Rifle 357, Uberti 1873 45 LC Carbine, TTN 12 Gauge Double, Ruger Bisley Vaquero 357 (pair), Springfield XD9SC, XD45 Service, XD45 Compact Tactical, Glock G35, Taurus 617 357

03-21-2008, 04:09 PM	#84
Fastsc92 XDTalk Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Salem, NH Posts: 82	yes you have to remove the trigger bar to adjust the screw, but it took about 5 min for quick disassembly/reassembly a few times to get it set correctly, and since then I haven't touched it. __________________ XD-9 Service Sig Mosquito

03-25-2008, 06:47 AM	#90
rgeliske XDTalk 1K Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,674	I agree with ichy_trigger I would not want that knob floating around if it broke off. I don't think putting the setscrew in the frame would weakened it all. I also think that in the frame is the least risky, the trigger bar is pretty hard and it is pretty easy to drill the hole off location or break the tap of in the hole. My only concern would be having to take it apart to adjust it, but once set it should not move. Personally I favor the adjustable screw over having to remove material from the trigger bar to get the proper adjustment. __________________ Sig P220, Taurus PT1911, Browning HiPower 9mm, CZ75, CZ75 P01, S&W Model 60 357, Savage 9317 BTVS .17, Browning Buckmark, Taurus Gaucho 357 (pair), Taurus Gaucho 45LC (pair), Uberti 1873 Saddle Rifle 357, Uberti 1873 45 LC Carbine, TTN 12 Gauge Double, Ruger Bisley Vaquero 357 (pair), Springfield XD9SC, XD45 Service, XD45 Compact Tactical, Glock G35, Taurus 617 357

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03-21-2008, 08:07 AM	#81
COMplex XDTalk Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Denver, CO. Posts: 13	I really want to do this mod, but I don't want to drill anything out. Is there a pre-drilled trigger bar? If I am understanding correctly, I will have reduced take-up and reset, but factory overtravel? How would I reduce the overtravel without drilling?

03-22-2008, 03:03 PM	#87
HHjr XDTalk Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: MI Posts: 44	COMplex ..... Yes, you can get a pre drilled trigger bar but then you have to FIT the trigger bar to your gun ..... critical fit points must be perfectly met to obtiain a safe gun. THe ease of frame dis-assembly makes the frame screw still the easiest option IMHO. Once dialed in it is like the infomercial "set it and forget it" and your stock trigger bar is un molested. Harold H.

03-24-2008, 08:14 PM	#88
dogboy XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 162	Any chance of slowly building up a "knob" (for lack of a better word) in the frame area that the screw would inhabit? Out of layers of epoxy and some other polymer type material? Would take a lot longer, be more of a hassle, but not likely to weaken the frame, and unlikely to ever come loose (not that the screw IS likely to some loose).