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Old 01-16-2009, 11:35 PM   #21
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Yea, I didn't want to get into the whole heat treating thing. I was trying to make it easy for every body to replicate.
Using an allen wrench is a good idea, if the diameter is small enough you can just angle it in and the rock it back and forth. I'll have to try that. Still haven't been able to find my bent screw driver. Tells you how often I remove the extractor.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:38 PM   #22
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Yea, I didn't want to get into the whole heat treating thing. I was trying to make it easy for every body to replicate.
Using an allen wrench is a good idea, if the diameter is small enough you can just angle it in and the rock it back and forth. I'll have to try that. Still haven't been able to find my bent screw driver. Tells you how often I remove the extractor.
The trick is to use an bigger allen wrench and then gind it so it is thin, otherwise they too weak.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:42 PM   #23
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If you don't mind, I'll see if I can do a write up on how to make one, sometime this weekend.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:46 PM   #24
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I think that would be good.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:49 PM   #25
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I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks Scott. If I ever find my screw driver I'll post a pic.
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:09 AM   #26
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A set of these may come in handy....

Craftsman 4 pc. Pick and Hook Set - Model 41513 at Sears.com
 
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Old 01-17-2009, 07:32 AM   #27
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Lacking a metal vise, I bent my screwdriver tip by heating it with a torch until it glowed, then bent it with some pliers. Then I filed it down (on all sides and the length of the lip) until I was able to fit it next to the extractor as pictured.

I was able to get the extractor to pop up about 1mm but still couldn't remove it entirely. I'll try again today.

I noticed something odd...when I had the extractor popped up, I hadn't removed the firing pin (though I _had_ removed the striker block + pin). I tried to take the firing pin out, and it was stuck! It moved when I tried to pull it out, but just barely. I tapped the extractor back in, and the firing pin then moved freely and came right out.

I didn't think there was anything linking the operation/placement of the firing pin to the extractor in the design. Maybe the extractor pin creates a tiny bit of pressure on the wall of the chamber containing firing pin, and popping the extractor out halfway caused some slight deformation of the firing pin chamber?

In any case, I was a bit worried when the firing pin seemed stuck but popping the extractor back in returned everything to normal.
 
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:16 AM   #28
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Got it!

And once the extractor's out it's pretty clear why the firing pin needs to be removed first - there's a hole between the extractor-cavity and the firing pin chamber into which the wall of the firing pin protrudes slightly.

The extractor base is milled so as to allow the firing pin to move freely when the extractor's in place...but when the extractor's only partially out the base presses against the firing pin (if you left the firing pin in as I did on my previous attempt at pulling the extractor).

I'll try to get some pictures up.
 
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Extractor removal tool(s)
Old 01-17-2009, 03:34 PM   #29
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Extractor removal tool(s)

After Agalindo's terrific brainstorm about a tool for removing an extractor, and after breaking screwdriver tips trying to duplicate his results (apparently my screwdrivers are made of too high-quality steel ), I set out to fabricate my own tool.

My first try was with the remnant of the broken screwdriver. I used a belt sander and moto-tool to create a hook on the end, analogous to the bent-tip screwdriver. That's the smallest tool in the pics below.

Then I tried one made of 1/8" thick stock. That's the middle one.

Both worked pretty well, but I wanted one with more removal pressure, so I made up the third one, also of 1/8" stock. It is thin enough to fit in the narrow slot, and the width is narrow enough to be inserted in the slot below the extractor.

In the pics, it's noted that there's a relief ground into the back of the tool. This allows it to rock away from the extractor enough to engage the hook. Then it's a matter of levering it up, which is trivial.

There's also a bit of the corner taken off to enable it to fit the slot easier. If you look at the slot on your XD slide where the tool needs to be inserted, you'll see why this is desirable.

As has been noted, there are several ways to do this. The screwdriver approach is easiest if the steel is mild enough. A hex wrench can also be used (I didn't try it). Or you can make your own.

I've used them in both my .45 and the 9mm.

Pics follow.











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Old 01-17-2009, 03:42 PM   #30
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Got it!

And once the extractor's out it's pretty clear why the firing pin needs to be removed first - there's a hole between the extractor-cavity and the firing pin chamber into which the wall of the firing pin protrudes slightly.

The extractor base is milled so as to allow the firing pin to move freely when the extractor's in place...but when the extractor's only partially out the base presses against the firing pin (if you left the firing pin in as I did on my previous attempt at pulling the extractor).

I'll try to get some pictures up.
I once reassembled my slide in the wrong order, putting in the striker before the extractor. Couldn't get the extractor in for some reason, and ended up jamming it in place. Then I had a real quandary--I broke a number of picks trying to remove the extractor.

The only way I could remedy the situation was to drive the striker out using a punch. Took me damned near an hour to get it loose.

I now make *especially* sure that extractor goes in first.
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Last edited by mongoose33; 01-18-2009 at 05:18 PM.
 
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