220+ Lumen TLR-1, $20 Mod.

[anto]

I posted some info about this in a TLR-1 thread in shooters corner, but I figure it'd get more coverage here.

Anyway, I've been looking up the internal workings of the TLR-1 and with the wonderful help of the guys on CPF, I found some info to upgrade the LED emitter to something brighter, with (theoretically) the same runtime due to better efficiency.

CPF and modding flashlights go hand in hand, so naturally here are some pictures and stats.

Luxeon 3 used in the TLR-1 delivers ~80 lumens at 1000mA, which is the drive current.
A Seoul P4 emitter (U2 Bin) has the same footprint (direct swap) as the Luxeon & delivers up to 280 lumens at 1000mA.

A member on CPF measured the draw on a TLR, and it pulls 770ma from fresh batteries, which means about ~200-220 lumens with a U2 bin, and it should still have the same runtime.

Luxeon 3's are outdated technology, the Seoul U2 bin was just released weeks ago, and you can buy the emitter for around $12, or as low as $5 for a slightly lower U bin, while still providing ~200 lumen output.

Installation is very simple, you just have to be somewhat proficient with a soldering iron.
Before you desolder the Luxeon emitter, you have to prep your Seoul.
Apparently Seoul decided to have positive power go through the bottom of the emitter instead of Luxeon's negative, so you have to isolate that. All you need is a thin layer of thermal epoxy over the bottom. That's it. You can find this at any computer store. Look for Arctic Alumina or Ceramique.
Seoul:
compared to
Luxeon:


To replace the Luxeon emitter, remove your TLR-1 head, use the soldering iron to heat up the leads @ the emitter (highlighted in red) and remove it.


Afterward, get your new Seoul (with the isolating layer of thermal epoxy), dab on a little more thermal COMPOUND (read: different than epoxy) which is non-permanent, fit and solder in the new leads.




Taken from sed6 on CPF:

Stock TLR on left, modded on right.



An added benefit of the swap is the availability to choose your color tint - ranging from a cool white to a warm white. Most would probably prefer warm white as it offers slightly better CRI.

Another topic that might be brought up about this is the reliability of the light, post-mod. Emitter swaps are one of the simplest things you can do, provided you solder correctly. The only point of failure I can see is if you have a cold solder joint and it breaks the connection as the gun recoils, OR if you didn't add a slight dab of thermal compound and ran the light for continuous hours (which means heat damage).

And of course, your warranty will probably be voided, but that's the trade off. As I said above, emitter swaps are one of the easiet things you can do, provided you have some proficiency (or can find someone with some).

A few people might not like too too bright as to preserve their night vision - what do you guys think?

Thanks to DaFABRICATA, USM0083, sed6, TOTC & Skibane on CPF.

[GuardPost2]

great mod anto, good to see a fellow CPFer here. being a complete flashaholic myself i have never liked the gunlights because they are soooo far behind in LED technology. this will be something i will consider in the future. thanks for sharing!

[AZXD]

Anybody want to mod one, mount it on a shotty and give us a report ??