Who wants their pistol ported like the xd-40 V-10

[azguns0331]

Mine cracked. if you want a ported one get a V10 to cover your ass (warranty)
That gun in the pics you show has been floating around this forum for a while now.
You sound like a dick too, if your friend wants to work on guns then you just ****ed him.

[chupacabrachus]

No thanks. I save the porting for calibers with a little more wild recoil. Plus, the gun can't be used in Production class anymore if it's ported.

[BanditSRT8]

What needs to be kept in perspective is the fact that porting is NOT merely drilling a few holes or cutting a couple slots in a barrel. If it were EVERY gunsmith would offer the service. Truth is, only a small percentage of 'smiths do it, and not all of them do it well honestly.

A ton of research must go into every model, every barrel, every caliber to figure out WHERE the ports should be placed in order to achieve maximum effect, and less loss of velocity (porting can cost anywhere from 5%-10% velocity loss).

On GOOD porting jobs the holes (or slots) will be conical shaped to aid in the downward force keeping the muzzle flip to a minimum. If you take a micrometer to the inside holes (inside the barrel) and compare them to the holes you see on the outside, there should be a difference. The inner sides should be smaller with the outside being larger.

Place the ports too close to the chamber and you suffer incredible loss of velocity, and reduced effect of the ports. Too far forward and the effect can also be greatly reduced.

Then you have to consider how your are cutting the slide. Old Aro-Teks had this huge section cut out of the slide and they built up the barrel higher around the ports to meet up to where the slide used to be in that area. It was FANTASTIC. They changed this method to simply drilling holes, and while still effective, the holes are now smaller and not quite as great as the old style from 15 years ago. If you go to drilling holes in the slide, they have to be set correctly. Either slightly FORWARD of the barrel ports (because the slide will begin moving rearward as the gasses reach the ports, so they must be aligned as such) or they have to be about 20% larger than the barrel ports to allow for this alignment.

If you slot the slide you need to figure out how much steel can safely be removed and still retain the structural integrity of the slide (or you'll crack it), and how much is too much to remove and allow the slide to time and cycle properly (and further... will you be able to retain the original recoil spring, or go to a lighter one).

THEN you have to cut it properly. Flip your XD V10 slide over and see how it is bevelled around each opening.

There is A LOT to know, and a lot of research to perform before attempting this. If you ever want to know how tough it is, call up Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating and Weaponry. Bob was one of the pioneers of porting and has seen what works and what doesn't... he's like a breathing encyclopedia on the subject. He is who I sent my wifes' G19 to for porting.

[shaner]

i owned a v10 9mm worked great never cracked in the 1000's of rounds thru it , but, i really didnt care for the flash it had when shot, the flames blacking the sight picture indoors , and the way it would black out the front sight after a couple hundo rounds, and i never really seen a great difference in recoil from a port an non ported 9mm ?

[BanditSRT8]

Originally Posted by shaner

i owned a v10 9mm worked great never cracked in the 1000's of rounds thru it , but, i really didnt care for the flash it had when shot, the flames blacking the sight picture indoors , and the way it would black out the front sight after a couple hundo rounds, and i never really seen a great difference in recoil from a port an non ported 9mm ?

The difference is felt greater on a .40, .45 and so on.

[azguns0331]

Originally Posted by shaner

i never really seen a great difference in recoil from a port an non ported 9mm ?

I have a non-ported barrel for my V10 9mm and when you shoot them back to back the difference is night and day.
Oh the recoil isnt much less (still less though) but the muzzle flip is no **** like 75% less.
I would be pretty scared to modify a non ported gun unless i had buckets of money

[krazykozmetics]

Originally Posted by BanditSRT8

What needs to be kept in perspective is the fact that porting is NOT merely drilling a few holes or cutting a couple slots in a barrel. If it were EVERY gunsmith would offer the service. Truth is, only a small percentage of 'smiths do it, and not all of them do it well honestly.

A ton of research must go into every model, every barrel, every caliber to figure out WHERE the ports should be placed in order to achieve maximum effect, and less loss of velocity (porting can cost anywhere from 5%-10% velocity loss).

On GOOD porting jobs the holes (or slots) will be conical shaped to aid in the downward force keeping the muzzle flip to a minimum. If you take a micrometer to the inside holes (inside the barrel) and compare them to the holes you see on the outside, there should be a difference. The inner sides should be smaller with the outside being larger.

Place the ports too close to the chamber and you suffer incredible loss of velocity, and reduced effect of the ports. Too far forward and the effect can also be greatly reduced.

Then you have to consider how your are cutting the slide. Old Aro-Teks had this huge section cut out of the slide and they built up the barrel higher around the ports to meet up to where the slide used to be in that area. It was FANTASTIC. They changed this method to simply drilling holes, and while still effective, the holes are now smaller and not quite as great as the old style from 15 years ago. If you go to drilling holes in the slide, they have to be set correctly. Either slightly FORWARD of the barrel ports (because the slide will begin moving rearward as the gasses reach the ports, so they must be aligned as such) or they have to be about 20% larger than the barrel ports to allow for this alignment.

If you slot the slide you need to figure out how much steel can safely be removed and still retain the structural integrity of the slide (or you'll crack it), and how much is too much to remove and allow the slide to time and cycle properly (and further... will you be able to retain the original recoil spring, or go to a lighter one).

THEN you have to cut it properly. Flip your XD V10 slide over and see how it is bevelled around each opening.

There is A LOT to know, and a lot of research to perform before attempting this. If you ever want to know how tough it is, call up Bob Cogan at Accurate Plating and Weaponry. Bob was one of the pioneers of porting and has seen what works and what doesn't... he's like a breathing encyclopedia on the subject. He is who I sent my wifes' G19 to for porting.

Great info. Good lookin glock too.

[Hondarrgh]

that G19 is sexy....