Need gun smithing help ASAP for my XD9

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by noobshooter

First thing, thanks Scott for the help and explaination of the issue. Like I said before, I'm a shooter not a gun smith.

Next, The person that did the trigger job is NOT a hack. Heck, you may have one of his trigger jobs. I have around 15-25K live fire round, and somewhere around 30-50K dry fire through this gun. Parts wear down.

Parts do wear, but I have never seen anything wear in such a way as to cause a condition as dangerous as the one on your gun. With the tip of the FP out, that gun could go full auto with a slam fire discharge on each chambering.

I will defer to experts, but IMHO it is insane to modify the FP safety plunger in such a way as to make it possible for the FP to ride that far forward. It basically defeats the most important and effective safety on the gun.

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by Loves2Shoot

One way to do a trigger job is to change the safety lever to engage the safety sooner and this requires modifications to the lever, striker and striker block. That is what you are seeing. This is the way the factory does it also.

I prefer to do it differently.

If you'll notice this post from Scott. Looks like that's the way Springfield does trigger jobs.

[Krackels]

Subscribing, this looks interesting.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by agalindo

If you'll notice this post from Scott. Looks like that's the way Springfield does trigger jobs.

I read it. I was just underscoring his very polite comment of how he prefers to do it differently.

I am being more blunt and saying whatever mods led to that condition are dangerous and certainly unnecessary. I have tricked the trigger out on my XD to a very light and short pull and it does not require screwing up the safety plunger.

[agalindo]

By altering the striker safety in addition to moding the trigger bar, and or sear, and or safety leaver you can get an extremely short trigger pull. You have to alter the striker safety because the safety leaver will travel up less thus not pushing the striker safety in enough to clear the striker.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by agalindo

By altering the striker safety in addition to moding the trigger bar, and or sear, and or safety leaver you can get an extremely short trigger pull. You have to alter the striker safety because the safety leaver will travel up less thus not pushing the striker safety in enough to clear the striker.

I know all about it. I shaved about .005" off the mating surface of my safety plunger when I set up my trigger for the shorter take up. That was necessary to get enough clearance at the release point.

However, there is no way in heck mine would ever let the striker cruise on by without stopping it as shown in the pictures of the slide in question. It still drops plenty far enough up to stop the striker in it's unlifted state.

No matter how you slice it, if the slide is free from the frame (by definition) the frame mounted lever is imparting ZERO lift to the FP safety plunger and it should be blocking the striker and keeping it from going out of the breech face.

Whatever was done to that gun, they over cut the safety. It looks like they kept cutting until it was clearing the striker.... and to do it they basically cut the safety out of the gun.

[agalindo]

[added]
Gun was functioning properly for quite some time which means that the safeties were functioning properly. The malfunction started after some of the parts showed extensive wear.
[/added/
More that likely it was the result of wear from heavy usage combined with soft metal from removing the hardened surface of the metal.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by agalindo

[added]
Gun was functioning properly for quite some time which means that the safeties were functioning properly. The malfunction started after some of the parts showed extensive wear.
[/added/
More that likely it was the result of wear from heavy usage combined with soft metal from removing the hardened surface of the metal.

Gun was functioning properly for quite some time which means that the safeties were functioning properly.

NO, it doesn't mean that all all. If the firing pin safety plunger is shaved to give more clearance to the point it doesn't block the striker at all, you would NEVER know there was a problem until you needed the safety such as dropping the gun on it's muzzle or if it tried to go multiple fire.

[agalindo]

That's just it, it wasn't shaved to that point, it was wear from the firing that caused the part to fail. I derstand that if it was shaved to the point where it wasn't blocking the striker, it would have fired if the sear failed. I am very familiar with how this gun works and how all the safeties function.

The gunsmith that performed the trigger job would have tested it to make sure all safeties were intact before sending it back. He would also have know how much metal to remove so as to keep the safety intact. As mentioned by Scott this is the way Springfield does the trigger jobs so testing for intact safeties would be part of the process.

[powder river]

Not having Enough Clarance between the striker and the safety can also enhance this problem. If the striker safety and the striker don't clear completely then the striker can skip over the safety. you might get some light primmer strikes at first. (after all the dry firring and checking, after a trigger job you may not see any.) If this happens then the corners of the striker and the block can be come rounded and the safety has been defeated. At this point all you can do is through the striker and the safety in the trash and start over.

.