Springer Trigger bar problem

[Loves2Shoot]

YOU SHOULD NOT FIT THE TRIGGER BAR WITHOUT REMOVING THE STRIKER FROM THE SLIDE FIRST.

You should also not try to fit any fire control parts in any firearm if you are unable to check the firearm for safety as an unsafe firearm can result in serious injury or death.

Feel free to give us a call 9-6 PST is you are stuck on Tuesday.

[agalindo]

Scott was nice enough to send me a picture of this trigger bar with nice big labels. Again in order to get you trigger bar to engage the safety leaver and thus engage the sear you have to make sure the trigger is resetting. View the video I posted earlier to verify the trigger is resetting. If it's not then you have to remove a very small amount of metal in area A and then check for trigger reset again. Once the trigger is resetting you will notice that when you pull the trigger the sear will move down a bit. You want the sear to move down enough that it will release the striker. I don't know if Scott has a trick to check if the sear is moving down enough but I just put the slide on and pull the trigger. If the striker is not released use the small screw driver or what ever to drop the sear remove the slide and remove a bit of metal from area B and try again. Repeat as necessary.

[Loves2Shoot]

Originally Posted by agalindo

I don't know if Scott has a trick to check if the sear is moving down enough but I just put the slide on and pull the trigger. If the striker is not released use the small screw driver or what ever to drop the sear remove the slide and remove a bit of metal from area B and try again. Repeat as necessary.

If you remove the striker from the slide then put it back in loose without the springs, you can see how how far it needs to move and you can see the other things "going on." You will then know how much material you need to remove also from "B".

[Escotch]

its fine now, thanks for your help. I'm going to fit the bar later once I have more time and am back in town. And of course this is unloaded, ammo in a different room when I clean/disassemble.
This really is easier than working on a Ruger MkIII though. There are so many little parts and they are a bear to work on when brand new.

[agalindo]

I disassembled a brand new Ruger MkIII in order to paint the frame and I agree it was a pain to put everything back in once the paint dried.

[nateroach]

Just a quick noob question here. I have been looking to reduce the over travel and take-up on my .45 tactical. Can this trigger bar work with the factory sear, or do you need to have the matching Springer sear as well. Are there any trigger bars that work with the rest of the gun in factory condition?

Thanks

[ichy_trigger]

Not to come across wrong here but Im sure Scott could have solved this problem easier for you had you just contacted him directly. I think posting your problems with installing after market parts makes it look like there is no support for the parts and from all that I know, Scott is a helluva stand up guy when it comes to taking care of his customers.

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by nateroach

Just a quick noob question here. I have been looking to reduce the over travel and take-up on my .45 tactical. Can this trigger bar work with the factory sear, or do you need to have the matching Springer sear as well. Are there any trigger bars that work with the rest of the gun in factory condition?

Thanks

For you need the sear in order to remove take up.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by nateroach

Just a quick noob question here. I have been looking to reduce the over travel and take-up on my .45 tactical. Can this trigger bar work with the factory sear, or do you need to have the matching Springer sear as well. Are there any trigger bars that work with the rest of the gun in factory condition?

Thanks

The trigger bar is designed to work with their sear. You can drop in their sear with the stock trigger bar, as I understand it, you can NOt do the reverse. That is, the new trigger bar will not engage the stock sear properly.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by Escotch

its fine now, thanks for your help. I'm going to fit the bar later once I have more time and am back in town.

Some free advice: never fit one up "tight" for overtravel. In other words, make sure to have enough room to cleanly clear the sear face past the striker tab. Notice when you pull the trigger, the rear of the slide gradually raises up a little bit (because there is play in the slide frame fit). A good test for adequate clearance is to manually hold the rear of the slide down tight to prevent the "rising" and see if the sear can still release the striker cleanly. That way you know you have enough clearance.