Service grip reduction - Page 3 - XDTalk Forums - Your HS2000/SA-XD Information Source!

Clobbersaurus · 10-11-2007, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsnate02

Interesting, I called about 4 months ago and they said that they would do it and maintain the warranty for $120.

Hmmm.... interseting. If im slow at work tomorrow im gunna call them and see what they say.

Martens · 10-11-2007, 09:31 PM

As to the polishing I used a 5 or 6 inch wheel from Lowe's on my angle grinder. I used their #1 polish as it was for heavy cleaning on SS. I have scrap pieces of oak that I use in the vise to hold the slide. I like the oak as it is hard enough to hold but still doesn't mar the finish. Pine might work but I would be afraid it would let go as the grinder has a lot of torque.

I carried it today in a belly band and it was great. I did not have to worry at all about printing and it was nice knowing I had 10 rounds of .40. Since I carry an XD every day at work I like having the same mechanics should I need it.

I know, I know. Pics, Pics, Pics.

Martens · 10-12-2007, 03:25 PM

Here's pics of my custom and my duty gun. Missing is the all block 4 inch Service.

RBOWWOW · 10-12-2007, 03:40 PM

I noticed you didnt cut the step on the bottom of the backstrap and magwell.?. just curious why?

Martens · 10-12-2007, 03:47 PM

Ease of cut had a lot to do with it. Aesthetics was the other. I had a 6906 smith a while back and it was straight across the bottom and I liked the look. Finally since the little tail curves up across the back I don't miss it with my grip.

I admit it looks a little funny with the full size mag and sleeve but this is used only on the range. If it got to where I was past my first two SC mags, then I would be using bare fullsize mags anyway.

RBOWWOW · 10-12-2007, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martens

Ease of cut had a lot to do with it. Aesthetics was the other. I had a 6906 smith a while back and it was straight across the bottom and I liked the look. Finally since the little tail curves up across the back I don't miss it with my grip.

I admit it looks a little funny with the full size mag and sleeve but this is used only on the range. If it got to where I was past my first two SC mags, then I would be using bare fullsize mags anyway.

Thanks!
Just askin cause I spied a HS2000 for a great price and may buy that as my Test Gun. I want to try my hand at stipple and cut it to a compact, would also stipple the grip extender to match - hmmm, gotta think if I wanna gamble on my abilities.

Martens · 10-12-2007, 04:06 PM

Its not that hard. I clamped two pieces of 1/8 inch steel across the grip. This gave me two parallel sources to run my saw blade over. I clamped the frame in a vise and went at it with a chordless sawzall with a new blade. My chordless sawzall has less power than a chorded and was very controllable.

I used drywall sanding sheets laid on a block of wood to smooth the cut. I laid the wood on the counter and moved the grip back and forth as needed. The drywall sanding sheets have voids that keep it from getting "gummed" up with the plastic.

Beveling the mag well was a little harder, but I have a rotoray grinder bit for metal that worked great in a chordless drill. It was fast enough to cut without the risk of cutting too quick and making the bevel uneven. Some drywall sheets cut to size for hand finish work and it was all done.

Every step of the way I clamped the frame in a vise.

**PackerfanXD** · 10-12-2007, 06:24 PM

Looks pretty good.

Bill in San Jose · 10-13-2007, 06:54 AM

If the "gap" behind the Pearce extension bothers you (does not seem to at all, it's aesthetics), you could fill the area around them with the black plumber's epoxy which comes in a stick, and shape it to where you want. I don't think you'd need to put a small pin in there to support it since it doesn't get a lot of force applied to it. My only advice in working with it is to let it dry a couple minutes until hard, then sand it to the final shape. It continues to cure afterwards and it's much harder to shape them.

Nice work by the way.

10-12-2007, 06:24 PM	#28
PackerfanXD XDTalk 5K Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Ground zero of the invasion Posts: 6,875 Blog Entries: 1	Looks pretty good. __________________ An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject. -Author unknown.

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10-11-2007, 09:31 PM	#22
Martens XDTalk Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 53	As to the polishing I used a 5 or 6 inch wheel from Lowe's on my angle grinder. I used their #1 polish as it was for heavy cleaning on SS. I have scrap pieces of oak that I use in the vise to hold the slide. I like the oak as it is hard enough to hold but still doesn't mar the finish. Pine might work but I would be afraid it would let go as the grinder has a lot of torque. I carried it today in a belly band and it was great. I did not have to worry at all about printing and it was nice knowing I had 10 rounds of .40. Since I carry an XD every day at work I like having the same mechanics should I need it. I know, I know. Pics, Pics, Pics.

10-12-2007, 03:25 PM	#23
Martens XDTalk Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 53	Here's pics of my custom and my duty gun. Missing is the all block 4 inch Service.

10-12-2007, 03:40 PM	#24
RBOWWOW XDTalk 100 Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Idaho Posts: 437	I noticed you didnt cut the step on the bottom of the backstrap and magwell.?. just curious why?

10-12-2007, 03:47 PM	#25
Martens XDTalk Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 53	Ease of cut had a lot to do with it. Aesthetics was the other. I had a 6906 smith a while back and it was straight across the bottom and I liked the look. Finally since the little tail curves up across the back I don't miss it with my grip. I admit it looks a little funny with the full size mag and sleeve but this is used only on the range. If it got to where I was past my first two SC mags, then I would be using bare fullsize mags anyway.

10-12-2007, 04:06 PM	#27
Martens XDTalk Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 53	Its not that hard. I clamped two pieces of 1/8 inch steel across the grip. This gave me two parallel sources to run my saw blade over. I clamped the frame in a vise and went at it with a chordless sawzall with a new blade. My chordless sawzall has less power than a chorded and was very controllable. I used drywall sanding sheets laid on a block of wood to smooth the cut. I laid the wood on the counter and moved the grip back and forth as needed. The drywall sanding sheets have voids that keep it from getting "gummed" up with the plastic. Beveling the mag well was a little harder, but I have a rotoray grinder bit for metal that worked great in a chordless drill. It was fast enough to cut without the risk of cutting too quick and making the bevel uneven. Some drywall sheets cut to size for hand finish work and it was all done. Every step of the way I clamped the frame in a vise.

10-13-2007, 06:54 AM	#29
Bill in San Jose XDTalk 1K Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 1,266	If the "gap" behind the Pearce extension bothers you (does not seem to at all, it's aesthetics), you could fill the area around them with the black plumber's epoxy which comes in a stick, and shape it to where you want. I don't think you'd need to put a small pin in there to support it since it doesn't get a lot of force applied to it. My only advice in working with it is to let it dry a couple minutes until hard, then sand it to the final shape. It continues to cure afterwards and it's much harder to shape them. Nice work by the way.