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Welcome to the XDTalk Forums - Your HS2000/SA-XD Information Source! forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Also, registering gets you started on gaining access to The Trading Post and Blogs after 30 days and 100 posts! Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! |
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#1 |
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XDTalk 100 Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 118
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Parts requiring lube
There's a lot of general threads on how to clean. We could use a solvent to clean all the powder and grease by spraying it all out(assume a field strip). I am not knowledgeable enough to do a detailed strip and would hate to put something back incorrectly. I'm sure there are others in the same boat.
Is the slide the only part that requires lubing? |
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#2 |
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XDTalk Member
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I too would love to see a through "how to" on cleaning a handgun. I've heard bits and pieces here and there, but would really benefit from a detailed "how to".
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#3 |
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XDTalk 3K Member
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: boise ID (its boy-see, not boy-z)
Posts: 3,592
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i lube everything in the slide except for the firing pin chanel and i also lube the lockingblock and the sear group(which i dont think needs to be done but i polished my sear and other things in the sear group)
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#4 |
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XDTalk 1K Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Nazifornia
Posts: 1,651
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Lube is a two-edged sword: lube reduces friction, but also collects dirt and hard carbon which is like an abrasive. If you clean your gun frequently and thoroughly, lube everything (except NEVER in the firing pin channel).
An old joke said the way to know if a Colt .45 was sufficiently lubed was to time the rate the drops of oil dripped off the shooter's elbow as it ran down their arm. High tech greases like Slide Glide are better than oil, but must be thinned in viscosity (by stirring in FP-10) for cold weather shooting. |
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#5 |
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XDTalk 3K Member
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i lube the bottom of the slide (where it contacts the frame), i lube the rails on the frame (where they contact the slide), il use a dab on the inside of the slide where it contacts the rails on the frame, il use a bad on the locking block, and a dab on the barrell where it contacts the locking block.
just small amounts of lube is enough, you dont want excess lube running out after you cycle the slide a few times. if you guys are interested il snap some photos and post them. interest? |
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#6 |
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XDTalk Member
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that'd be great.
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#7 |
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XDTalk 100 Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Illinois
Posts: 293
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i lube the whole slide and internals...just a lil bit
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#8 |
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XDTalk 3K Member
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snapping pics now, standby
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#9 |
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XDTalk 3K Member
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http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...cture006-2.jpg
this illustrates that i lube the part that contacts the locking block. putting a dab of lube on the barrel and rubbing it in doesnt hurt either. http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...cture006-1.jpg this illustrates that i lube all parts of the slide that contact the frame (the rails), and also a dab where the barrel rubs the slide isnt going to hurt. http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...cture003-3.jpg this illustrates that i lube all parts of the rail the contact the slide, and the locking block that contacts the barrel. when lubing, as someone mentioned already...lube is both good and bad. if not enough you have unwanted friction...but if to much you get dirt build up (gunk). hope this helps. |
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#10 |
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XDTalk 500 Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 806
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If it moves or gets rubbed, it gets oiled.
After I'm done shooting, it gets soaked in gun scrubber, dried, then oiled again. Everything gets a light coating of oil which is then wiped off, but the moving stuff gets oiled and left alone. |
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