General info needed on XD trigger jobs

[HTOWN stunna]

ok, i may just be blowing hot air, but why would the striker effect the trigger pull. all it does is lock on the sear, i cut on leg of my sear spring and did a little bending to get my trigger down to 1-1.5 lbs with out messing with the striker spring. my old trigger spring is also modified, but i replaced it with the springer trigger spring, when i replaced the stock sear spring that i bent with the reduced power one from springer the pull went up significantly. P.S. the XD wont go full auto thats what the striker safety is for. and yes if the sear spring is too weak the gun wont reset and stay cocked after you shoot it, happened to me the other day so i had to bend my spring back a little more, and no it didnt go full auto.

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by age_ranger

The pre-travel and overtravel shouldn't effect the action, only the trigger movement, right?

Correct.

Essentially, by changing the length of the trigger bar, it would only change the length of trigger pull required for the trigger bar to engage the firing mechanism, right?

You don't change the length of the the trigger bar.
You change the length of the tab on the sear. The part that engages the saftey leaver that engages the triggerbar tab. You can also add a bit of metal to the trigger bar tab to further remove pretravel and help the saftey leaver move up to disengage the striker saftey.

Looks like the pretravel can be shortened by adding metal to the trigger bar.

Adding metal to the sear tab.

The overtravel seems pretty minimal, really......alot less than alot of firearms i've owned.

This is done by drilling and tapping the trigger bar and inserting a screw so you can adjust the overtravel. The arrow to the tab is where you can also add metal in order to further reduce pretravel and help with light primer strikes.[/quote]

Looks like it's not really too hard to do, but it's not my area of expertise. Best left to the pro's, especially since it's free (minus shipping)

Liking this forum....... Lots of good info, thanks!

.........yeah, weird to see only 6 posts, huh? lol.......

[age_ranger]

Thanks for the info. On most of my firearms, I prefer to "smooth" the action over "lightening" any day, but typically add a lighter hammer spring to help in my competition guns on occasion. It appears as if the majority of the trigger job is in the sear. Getting it to break sooner with a nice crisp snap and minimal creep would be key......it currently doesn't have the trigger stacking issues some Berettas have out of the box. I'm really looking forward to shooting this now. You guys might have a XD fan here pretty soon Great forum.....congrats to its members for keeping it in great shape!

[rgeliske]

Originally Posted by HTOWN stunna

ok, i may just be blowing hot air, but why would the striker effect the trigger pull. all it does is lock on the sear, i cut on leg of my sear spring and did a little bending to get my trigger down to 1-1.5 lbs with out messing with the striker spring. my old trigger spring is also modified, but i replaced it with the springer trigger spring, when i replaced the stock sear spring that i bent with the reduced power one from springer the pull went up significantly. P.S. the XD wont go full auto thats what the striker safety is for. and yes if the sear spring is too weak the gun wont reset and stay cocked after you shoot it, happened to me the other day so i had to bend my spring back a little more, and no it didnt go full auto.

Ok I'll buy that, either way you removing too much tension from the trigger spring will have adverse effect on the function of the sear. The sear spring exerts pressure against the mating surface between the sear and the striker causing increased friction which adds to increased trigger pull. That's why you polish those surfaces, to reduce the friction.

[agalindo]

Originally Posted by rgeliske

Ok I'll buy that, either way you removing too much tension from the trigger spring will have adverse effect on the function of the sear. The sear spring exerts pressure against the mating surface between the sear and the striker causing increased friction which adds to increased trigger pull. That's why you polish those surfaces, to reduce the friction.

Polishing will reduce the friction between the sear and striker, then you can alter the bearing surface of the sear to striker contact area, by creating less contact surface you reduce trigger pull weight and creep.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by rgeliske

Since you have done your own trigger work before you will understand the striker system. Besides the usual polishing there are 2 springs that effect trigger pull:

The Striker spring and the Sear spring.



The striker spring is compressed on recoil and held there by the sear, so it applies pressure to the sear when locked back which also impact trigger pull.

Who sells lightened striker springs for competition trigger jobs?

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by HTOWN stunna

ok, i may just be blowing hot air, but why would the striker effect the trigger pull. all it does is lock on the sear, i cut on leg of my sear spring and did a little bending to get my trigger down to 1-1.5 lbs with out messing with the striker spring.

When then trigger is pulled to release the striker, the sear rotates and deflects the striker slightly to the rear as it releases. because the trigger is forcing the striker back, the striker spring will affect trigger pull weight.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by HTOWN stunna

ok, i may just be blowing hot air, but why would the striker effect the trigger pull. all it does is lock on the sear, i cut on leg of my sear spring and did a little bending to get my trigger down to 1-1.5 lbs with out messing with the striker spring.

Interesting..... on my XD tac .40, the trigger pull force (measured about halfway down the trigger face) required to simply pull the trigger alone against the trigger return spring is more than one pound. Add the sear return spring and the FP safety plunger spring, and it's over 2.5# just for the spring loads. Including the striker release (total trigger pull weight) is about 3.5#.
Those values are for the Springer sear.

[HTOWN stunna]

i realize now that some sears pull the striker back slightly, but if you use a polishing stone and remove a tiny bit of metal. mine doesnt move the striker back.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by HTOWN stunna

i realize now that some sears pull the striker back slightly, but if you use a polishing stone and remove a tiny bit of metal. mine doesnt move the striker back.

I see, usually the only way to accomplish that is with what I call a "radius cut" on the sear face which means it has a curve which follows the radius from the pivot point to the sear face. I've done a couple of those on HP's, but getting it right usually requires a jig. If you get it a bit "overcooked" it means the striker (or hammer) actually moves forwrd as you pull and that an make the thing slip off the sear when the slide hits the frame coming into battery.

The springer sear has a radius cut (which is why it's pull is smoother and lightter than stock) but it still deflects the striker slightly rearward as it rotates.