What's your cleaning process?

[ranburr]

I only do detail cleanings. I was doing it every thousand rounds. They don't need a real cleaning at that round count. I'll take a look again at 1,500, my guess is I'll be upping it to every 2K. I completely disassemble, soak everything is hot water and simple green. Rinse with hot water, dry and then hose down the metal parts with CLP. Dry off the CLP, lube with grease and back in action.

[TimXD9]

Originally Posted by fjdwheat

Good idea. The cleaning patches that came with my .22 cleaning kit are a certian material and I don't see them any larger for sale that would work in a 9mm. Anyone use triflow? Is the video on the SA website for clean the XDm really a good method for cleaning?

There are different generic size patches for different caliber guns. The larger patches will be a little tighter in a wider barrel, cleaning it more effectively.

You can get them anywhere they sell gun cleaning supplies. I have a pack of 500 Hoppes .38 to .45 cal. patches, I think it cost me $7 at a local sporting goods store.

I've never used TriFlow on my guns, only on my bikes. For cleaning/lubing guns I've only used Hoppes stuff and some white lithium grease so far.

[Gorky_Park]

Does anyone use heavier lube on rails/contact parts on top of your regular Hoppes/Rem oil? I am contemplating on doing that just wanted to see what others do as well.

[TimXD9]

Originally Posted by Gorky_Park

Does anyone use heavier lube on rails/contact parts on top of your regular Hoppes/Rem oil? I am contemplating on doing that just wanted to see what others do as well.

One older shooter (a gun shop clerk) told me once to use grease instead of lubricating oil. I've used white grease instead of Hoppes oil a few times, but usually stick with the oil.

The grease might be less likely to pick up all the dirt/powder/grime the oil does (which could be a good or bad thing), and for sure isn't as messy as oil. The grease also might provide a little more of a buffer between moving parts for a longer period of time, but otherwise I don't see the advantage.

Also, I don't know how they'd perform vs. each other, but when I've run the greased guns at the range the results have been the same as oiled guns.

[Joe2131]

This should truly depend on how you use your firearm.

1. How much you use it.
2. How you use it.
3. The environment you subject your firearm to.

If I'm taking every where I go I feel a daily inspection is necessary when it is loaded and unloaded. Since I don't do that anymore I clean the barrel with Hoppes 9 and the rest with CLP. When the carbon builds up where I can't always get to it I'll use a spray solvent. I give the metal as much CLP as the metal will absorb and wipe it clean. Any time the firearm will be stored in a case it then gets wiped down with a silicone cloth.

I have put off cleaning for up to a week and no more when I know for absolute sure that I will take it back out right away. I have also cleaned my pistol on the firing line to regain accuracy. Please note that it was after 500 rds and I was teaching my brother what I do know about tactical shooting. I have also cleaned a firearm daily without shooting any rounds.

[.45StillAlive]

basic stripe and clean after every session.

[seawolfxix]

I clean after every shooting session. Here's an overview of my procedure:

1. Disassemble grip frame, slide, barrel, and return spring from each other.
2. Drop barrel in container of Hoppe's #9 Solvent (only half of it is submerged due to the size of the Hoppe's bottle).
3. Wipe out slide with patches, paper towels, and Q-Tips (w/ Hoppe's #9 Solvent)
4. Flip barrel over so the other side can soak in solvent.
5. Clean powder residue out of grip frame using Q-Tips

6. Run a solvent-soaked patch down the barrel
7. Scrub out the barrel (back-and-forth motion) with brash brush only
8. Run another solvent-soaked patch down the barrel

Repeat 6 - 8 until patches are almost clean.

9. Run a patch with 4 or 5 drops of oil down the barrel.
10. Lubricate all moving parts with oil
11. Reassemble the gun.

My solvent is always Hoppe's #9, and my oil is always Remington Rem Oil.

[chalee]

I put the the slide, recoil spring, and barrel in the dishwasher. I fill the chamber where the soap goes with hoppes 9 and put it on the hottest setting. When it's done I put them in the oven and 450 to dry them out. Then I just spray them down with G-96 wipe off reassemble. Sometimes I'll hit 'em with compressed air not sure if it does anything but some guy at the range told me it was a good idea.

[Squidbert]

Originally Posted by chalee

I put the the slide, recoil spring, and barrel in the dishwasher. I fill the chamber where the soap goes with hoppes 9 and put it on the hottest setting. When it's done I put them in the oven and 450 to dry them out. Then I just spray them down with G-96 wipe off reassemble. Sometimes I'll hit 'em with compressed air not sure if it does anything but some guy at the range told me it was a good idea.

Wat

[ChileRelleno]

1) Disassemble.

2) Run a dripping wet patch ('KG-1') down the barrel on a jag, set barrel aside.

3) With a nylon brush, brush down everything down and then hit it all with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
Recoil spring assembly gets a very light lube.
Mags get a quick brushing too.

4)Run another wet patch down the barrel, then a few passes with a nylon bore brush, run patches till clean, then lightly lube, inside & out.
*If copper fouling is visible, run a patch of 'KG-12' and let sit for 15 minutes, patch till clean, then lightly lube inside & out.

5) Reassemble and rub down with silicone gun cloth.